How to properly torque Control Arms???
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How to properly torque Control Arms???
I'm replacing the control arms on both sides of my 2001 Audi A6 2.7t quattro. I'm in the installation process right now, but Im not sure if I have to simulate weight on suspention to be able to torque upper control arms, since there is not that much clearance when intalled on vehicle, there is no way I can think of they can be torqued, Im confused, I have seen diy videos, with different opinions some simulate the weight with a floor jack and mark the position of upper control arms the way they would be when car is on ground.
https://youtu.be/PqUr1aIfuFo
And this other video just takes out the strut mount and replace the upper control arms one by one.
https://youtu.be/jrYAAtlsjnY
what do you guys think or recommend doing?
is that really a big issue?
I dont really see anything wrong with the bentley installation since he took the upper control arms the way they are, and replaced and torque them one by one the same way it came out. I measured the distance from strut mount to one upper control arm as the 1A Auto video recommends and get 3.5" distance without having to simulate weight. If I do simulate the weight of upper control arms my markings are just 2" from strut mount to lower side on one upper control arm.
https://youtu.be/PqUr1aIfuFo
And this other video just takes out the strut mount and replace the upper control arms one by one.
https://youtu.be/jrYAAtlsjnY
what do you guys think or recommend doing?
is that really a big issue?
I dont really see anything wrong with the bentley installation since he took the upper control arms the way they are, and replaced and torque them one by one the same way it came out. I measured the distance from strut mount to one upper control arm as the 1A Auto video recommends and get 3.5" distance without having to simulate weight. If I do simulate the weight of upper control arms my markings are just 2" from strut mount to lower side on one upper control arm.
Last edited by Alex2.7T; Feb 15, 2018 at 10:09 AM.
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Although the recommendation is to tighten the bolts on the control arm bushings when the car is on the ground or the suspension is loaded, I have found that it doesn't seem to make much of a difference in the longevity or ride when the tightening is done with the suspension at full droop. I'm sure that others will chime in, but it's already difficult enough without trying to manipulate the suspension while replacing the arms.
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Agree with George on this. If you want to be a stickler you can lower the spindle/ brake rotor onto a jack stand or wooden blocks to load the suspension. I have done this by having the car on jack stands then used my floor jack to push the spindle/ brake rotor up just short of actually lifting the car. Tighten up the control arm bolts. Ta-Da!!!
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I like to tighten hardware with vehicle suspension in loaded position especially for bushing connections. While not required to reassemble, by locking the bushings in place in normal vehicle weight loaded position then there is no torsional load on the bushings with normal flat and level daily driving which will help maximize bushing life. If bushings are torqued down with suspension fully unloaded then when vehicle is on the ground the bushings are under a notable torsional load which increases with any additional suspension compression while driving.
AudiWorld Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 1,186
Likes: 43
From: Sierra Vista, AZ
I like to tighten hardware with vehicle suspension in loaded position especially for bushing connections. While not required to reassemble, by locking the bushings in place in normal vehicle weight loaded position then there is no torsional load on the bushings with normal flat and level daily driving which will help maximize bushing life. If bushings are torqued down with suspension fully unloaded then when vehicle is on the ground the bushings are under a notable torsional load which increases with any additional suspension compression while driving.
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Alex, you are right about measuring/replacing at angle of the old ones before the shock and upper arms are installed. Jacking up the front spindle works fine on lower bushings, but it's a different story on the uppers. Very hard to access the bolts with the suspension installed. That's why you unbolt the shock mount to swap the upper arms in the first place.
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For the front upper control arm bushings and prior to disassembly, suggest to simply look inside wheel well with vehicle weight load on ground and note the angle as it is near level for both the upper front and upper rear arms. During replacement tighten bushing bolts with arms in same noted position prior to attaching upper control arms to the uprights. This will help lock in the front upper bushings without having to fight for access with vehicle weight load on suspension.
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thank you all for the answers and suggestions,
it looks like I needed to replace driver's side inner tie rod, so I jdecided to do both sides, I removed them and began my search online for torque specs, on my search I found out they need to be torqued at 74ft-lbs, but one thing really caught my atention one person was suggesting to counterhold opposite side when torquing tie rods to avoid ruining the drive gear seals. How true is that? Does this applies only when torquing tie rods or is it the same when removing them? I can see little fluid behind were inner tie rod was located
it looks like I needed to replace driver's side inner tie rod, so I jdecided to do both sides, I removed them and began my search online for torque specs, on my search I found out they need to be torqued at 74ft-lbs, but one thing really caught my atention one person was suggesting to counterhold opposite side when torquing tie rods to avoid ruining the drive gear seals. How true is that? Does this applies only when torquing tie rods or is it the same when removing them? I can see little fluid behind were inner tie rod was located
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