2009 Q7 3.6 Premium Rattling at start up and when idling down while driving.
Me and my husband recently bought a used Audi Q7 3.6 Premium. Only has about 90,000 miles. Last person who had it drove the **** out of it... put 3,000+ miles on it within a month. We live in upstate NY where it's been snowing the past couple of days and been about 15 degrees and lower. Noticed a loud *** rattling noise from the around the engine when it starts up, goes away after 5 seconds or so and doesn't do it while we're driving until we start slowing down. We don't think it has anything to do with the cold weather because the car has been in NY for the past 8 years or so. Can't get to our mechanic until Monday. Have yet to find any posts with solutions and haven't really found anyone with an identical issue. Someone recommended we change the oil, add Marvels Mystery Oil and go from there, but that isn't going to give us a solution fast enough. We have a 30 day warranty. If anyone else has experienced the same issue please let me know! Unfortunately you can't post videos.
If you do have a 30 day warranty on car, go pay a qualified mechanic to do a purchase inspection on the car for you...a very small price to pay for the inspection, especially if it does need timing chain tensioners replaced, which is a very big, expensive job. This is the best advice you will ever get on an older Q7, bar none
. Pay a professional to inspect the car and give you a write-up on the car's health. Best to choose a mechanic that's familiar with German cars, if you've got one nearby, due to familiarity and having the correct tools and scantool to interface with the car's systems. You do need to scan any used Audi with a VAG (Volkswagen Auto Group)-compatible diagnostic scantool to see what's really going on under the surface of the car, as lots of trouble codes won't fire off a MIL/CEL on the dash display, but they tell you something is wrong and generally point you to what is wrong. If you don't use a VAG-compatible scantool that can actually 'talk' to this car, then you aren't going to see much.
The OBD-Eleven basic is cheap entry point to just read/clear codes on this car, but if you plan on DIY maintenance/service on your Q7, then you will need the VCDS setup, which allows you to actually correct faults in modules, and supports everything you will need to do for this car...it costs=one hour Audi shop labor, which is what you will pay if you ever take it to Audi for any problem.
If you do have a 30 day warranty on car, go pay a qualified mechanic to do a purchase inspection on the car for you...a very small price to pay for the inspection, especially if it does need timing chain tensioners replaced, which is a very big, expensive job. This is the best advice you will ever get on an older Q7, bar none
. Pay a professional to inspect the car and give you a write-up on the car's health. Best to choose a mechanic that's familiar with German cars, if you've got one nearby, due to familiarity and having the correct tools and scantool to interface with the car's systems.You do need to scan any used Audi with a VAG (Volkswagen Auto Group)-compatible diagnostic scantool to see what's really going on under the surface of the car, as lots of trouble codes won't fire off a MIL/CEL on the dash display, but they tell you something is wrong and generally point you to what is wrong. If you don't use a VAG-compatible scantool that can actually 'talk' to this car, then you aren't going to see much.
The OBD-Eleven basic is cheap entry point to just read/clear codes on this car, but if you plan on DIY maintenance/service on your Q7, then you will need the VCDS setup, which allows you to actually correct faults in modules, and supports everything you will need to do for this car...it costs=one hour Audi shop labor, which is what you will pay if you ever take it to Audi for any problem.
, but it makes a nice selling bullet point on the sales pitch. On our '15, it had a 30 day also, and I got them to pay for Audi OE oil change kit (since their shop put wrong oil in car), new OEM rear brake rotors/pads kit, brake fluid, and a new alternator & serpentine belt...a pretty expensive haul, but I told them what was wrong with it.Having used both Castrol and Audi/VW branded OE oil in our Q7s, I won't use either of those again since I've switched to Liqui Moly oil, and experienced how it runs much smoother/quieter in our Q7s engines...very impressed by the Liqui Moly. Also a 0W40 oil is a very wide temperature spectrum to cover, and you may want to revisit that choice to better reflect the climate where you are actually using the car. Verify the correct weight/oil spec for your engine, then if need be, adapt to fit your local climate if it falls into the 'extreme' cold/hot temperature ranges. Don't reinvent the wheel on these German cars, and don't make assumptions about fluids based on other types of cars you've had prior. It's all laid out for you. If you keep this car, be sure to do the driveline fluid services; transmission, transfer case, front/rear differentials, etc., as those are not incorporated into AUDI's service intervals. If you don't hear them making noise already when driving it, (try lowering a window a bit) you soon will.
Last edited by '10Q7TDI_Prestige'; Feb 5, 2022 at 11:20 AM.
, but it makes a nice selling bullet point on the sales pitch. On our '15, it had a 30 day also, and I got them to pay for Audi OE oil change kit (since their shop put wrong oil in car), new OEM rear brake rotors/pads kit, brake fluid, and a new alternator & serpentine belt...a pretty expensive haul, but I told them what was wrong with it.Having used both Castrol and Audi/VW branded OE oil in our Q7s, I won't use either of those again since I've switched to Liqui Moly oil, and experienced how it runs much smoother/quieter in our Q7s engines...very impressed by the Liqui Moly. Also a 0W40 oil is a very wide temperature spectrum to cover, and you may want to revisit that choice to better reflect the climate where you are actually using the car. Verify the correct weight/oil spec for your engine, then if need be, adapt to fit your local climate if it falls into the 'extreme' cold/hot temperature ranges. Don't reinvent the wheel on these German cars, and don't make assumptions about fluids based on other types of cars you've had prior. It's all laid out for you. If you keep this car, be sure to do the driveline fluid services; transmission, transfer case, front/rear differentials, etc., as those are not incorporated into AUDI's service intervals. If you don't hear them making noise already when driving it, (try lowering a window a bit) you soon will.
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I realize not everyone can run an oil change experiment side-by-side like this in real time, which is why I post this up for your consideration. I buy from FCP Euro and I recommend you shop there too.

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I realize not everyone can run an oil change experiment side-by-side like this in real time, which is why I post this up for your consideration. I buy from FCP Euro and I recommend you shop there too.








