2014 Q7 TDI P245B
anyone have any experience with this. YouTube states coolant shut off valve but looks like a visit to someone more experienced may be needed if I have to remove the top of engine.
here is the vagcom error.
18173 - Exhaust Gas Recirculation Cooler Bypass Control Circuit
P245B 00 [237) - Implausible Signal
[Exhaust Gas Recirculation Cooler Bypass ControlCircuit Range
MIL ON - Confirmed
- Tested Since Memory Clear
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00000001
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 1
Mileage: 235475 km
Date 2022 03 16
Time: 05:59 45
Engine RPM: 1922.00 /min
Normed load value: 72 5 %
Vehicle speed: 116 km/h
Coolant temperature: 63 °C
Intake air temperature: 5 °C
Ambient air pressure: 990 mbar
Voltage terminal 30: 14.560 V
Unlearning counter according OBD: 40
EGR Clg t Egr Ds De Mon Heat Avg: 134.2 K
EGR CIg dm Egr Mon Heat Avg: 60.8 kg/h
EGR Cg t Turbn Us Mon Avg: 418 2 °C
Air t EGR CIr Ds: 263 5 °C
Air mass: actual value (mg/stroke): 852.7 mg/stroke
EGR Vacuum Regulator Solen val.: activation: 93 59 %
Outside temperature
11 6 90
thanks for any help.
No white sludge in oil but getting ready to change oil next weekend.
I’ve also noticed a film on the back of the car not normal.
during the day I do not see the cloud. I did try to see if I could change the setting in the backup camera to keep it on while driving 75 mph to see what’s happening back there but can only extend it to 20km.
I’ve purchased a bore scope and saw some dark gunk(assuming oil) in the front of the valley. I just downloaded the erwin docs and now think I know where to look for that cooler and shutoff valve to see if anything stands out without removing the intake.
My thought is if I venture into that space, I plan on replacing the cooler, black plastic cover in front of that, the shutoff valve and seal on the bottom of the oil cooler plate. Also the intake seals.
Any thoughts on 1. Can a tinkerer like myself do this job? 2. Anything I should look at before diving in to diagnose the issue? 3. How much time should I plan on taking to do the job?
Scared to take it to dealer or Indy as they may change things that are not the problem. If they are going to just keep changing parts to find the problem, I think I can do that. On the other hand if you think it better to take somewhere I’m to the point I just want to not worry about it.
Thanks for any advise.
PS. The CEL went out on that code posted in thread.
My '15 was just in under warranty, and they found coolant on the cases (no oil), and quoted me for the oil cooler plate reseal, with a base estimate approx $2200 US given. That price is mainly labor (10 hours) doesn't include replacing the EGR Cooler or EGR Coolant Bypass Valve parts, or other related bits; the EGR cooler is a fairly expensive part to source. They ended up doing the oil cooler plate reseal under warranty, but didn't replace any of the EGR Cooler related parts, which was where it was leaking coolant from, and so it is still leaking coolant onto the engine cases, but more rapidly than before they worked on it....shocking, I know. You could pay some indie shop, and it will be expensive. You can do it yourself and plan on it taking a while, or you can consider if doing the delete & tune makes sense for you and where you live, or not.
I’m going to start pricing out the parts for the EGR stuff. Glad I downloaded most all the the info off ERWIN to help. I was able to get the back struts done today with only one hiccup. Broke one of the 4 studs on top of the strut to hold it to the mount. I had to put it back together and drive until a new one comes in. Took me 5 hours tho. I struggled on the first one but got a routine for the second one. Even swapped over the springs myself. Monroe said it too hard to for them to do it. I just marked everything to line back up and worked like a champ.
Autozone tool rental!!
Followup Question. I still see the white smoke but nothing while idling. I have put a scope down there a few times. Cannot see any antifreeze in the v. Do you think it still is the egr cooler? Anything else I should be checking?
There are other members better qualified to help you on this issue, but I'd be leaning towards either the EGR Cooler has sprung a leak internally, or you've got a head-gasket leak; both would allow coolant to get into the exhaust, but you wouldn't really see it all the time if either of those leaks were small...mainly it shows under duress/heavier system demands. There are other threads on here that discuss head gasket leaks in great detail, and how they can be difficult, at times, to diagnose/trace on this car, depending on the actual outward symptoms the car shows you, if any. There are specific tests/observations you can do/make for a head-gasket leak determination.
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