Hi all.. I’m sick of this tailgate problem lol recently bought the q7 (got it cheap of my dads mate) the boot never auto opened or closed and was a bit of a pain to open and close..
so after lurking on here I had seen that the lift motors would likely be the case so ordered replacements for both sides..

well after stripping the trim off I found that there was only one motor and the left hand side one was missing 😂 so I thought great just chuck the new one in and jobs sorted but I was wrong..

boot pops when key is pressed or door switch is pressed but doesn’t auto lift or close.. button on the inside of boot doesn’t do anything either however it is lit up..

so plugged my launch code reader in got
00317 rear lid control module
02786 rear lid control module 2

I have replaced both motors
stripped middle catch down and cleaned there was no plug corrosion or anything
cleaned the striker plate up

still doing the same .. I have ordered a new boot catch and also a replacement striker plate but I don’t think those are the problem.. is there any fuses or another control module anywhere or just the box on each motor?

not sure if it’s related but someone has also retrofitted facelift drl tail lights ..

im guessing someone removed the left hand motor to make it easier to open and close the boot as when I try to do it now you feel like your gunna snap something..

many thanks

 

If the high-pressure gas lifts, which are exposed when hatch opens, are toast, the motors won't matter, as they don't 'physically' open the gate...the gas lifts do all the real work. Also, when you remove anything electrical on this car, count on it throwing a code, which you must then scan the car and clear the trouble code before it regains normal functionality.
Be sure you are using a VAG-compatible diagnostic scantool, or you won't be able to read most of the codes this car will store to help you out. An OBD2 style scantool works for normal cars, but not for Audi's and other VAG cars.

The worst thing you can do on a Q7, unless you are made of $$, is simply start throwing parts at it and hoping you get there. Look at getting a VCDS cable type diagnostic scantool if possible, such as Ross Tech Hex V-2, as that will be a wise investment on the Q7. This generation of Q7 has been around since 2006, so there's not much that is unknown about them, if anything, but you need the right scantool to show you the way, and get past the car's 'firewalls', to repair certain types problems, etc. You might inquire with prior owner about any other 'modifications' made to the car, or parts removed from it.

 

Well it’s annoying me even more now lol!

when I was investigating fuses etc I saw a few drops of water in the fuse area..
my vcds has come so while I was installing that I replaced the battery just incase..

vcds has come back with

2 Faults Found:
01327
Control Module for Parking Aid (J446)
004 - No
Signal/Communication
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01100100
Fault Priority:
Fault Frequency:
1
Reset counter;
Mileage: 264873 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2006.03.15
Time: 12:51:14
01310
Level Control System Control Module (3197)
004
No Signal/Communication
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01100100
Fault Priority:
5
Fault Freque

2 Faults Found:
01320
- Control Module for Climatronic (J255)
013
_ Check DTC Memory
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01101101
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 7
Mileage: 264873 km
Time Indication: @
Date: 2006,03,15
Time: 12:51:15
Freeze Frame:
ON
02600
Rear Right Temperature Flap Motor (V314)
003
- Mechanical Failure - Intermittent
Freeze Frame;
Fault Status: 00100011
Fault Priority: 3
- Fault Frequency: 1
Reset countert
47
Mileage; 264873 km
Time Indication

00457
Central Electronics Control Module / BCM (J519)
004
- No Signal/Communication
Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault status: 00100100
Fault Priority:
2
Fault Frequency:
Reset counter:
Mileage: 264873 km
Time Indication: 0
Freeze Frame:
Count: 0
Count: 4353
Count: 8238
Count; 42496

01699 - Motor for Central Locking; Hatch/Trunk (V53)
009 - Open or Short to Ground - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00101001
Fault Priority: 3
Fault Frequency: 2
Reset counter: 47
Mileage: 264873 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2022.03 31

Fault Codes
1 Fault Found:
00317 - Rear Lid Control Module (J605)
004 - No Signal/Communication - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100100
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 47
Mileage: 264873 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2022.03 31

00924 - Relay for Headlamp Cleaning System (J39)
014 - Defective
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01101110
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 7
Mileage: 262136 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2022 03 27
Time: 16:07:00

02764 - Access/Start Authorization Switch (E408)
008 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00101000
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter 47
Mileage: 264873 km
Time Indication: O
Date: 2022. 03.27
Time: 16:07-26

01403 - Glass-Break Sensors; Rear
011 - Open Circuit - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00101011
Fault Priority: 3
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 47
Mileage: 264873 km
Time Indication: O
Date: 2022.03.31
Time: 21:34-08

you’ll have to excuse the times etc as I set the clock half was through the scan as had replaced battery just incase and I’ve just scanned the text off my photos as I’m using my phone lol

 

Yes, water ingress definitely = problems with the elecronics. You should pay attention/research the known water leak points on this car. The sunroof drains, HVAC condensate drain, exterior air plenum drains (beneath the windshield) are all common trouble items/locations related to water drainage; they all need to be maintained to prevent water damage to car's electronics. Hoping you got the car cheap. Don't forget you've also got the Ross-Tech Wiki & support help, in addition to your best friend Google to help you locate existing threads on all trouble codes and specific issues of interest.

 

I’ve pulled the back of the car to bits to see if there is any water damage or anything but everything is spot on.. I’m struggling to work out what’s going on or wrong.. the car knows it’s had new motors fitted but won’t do anything with them.. the module just refuses to do anything

 

It may be a module with component protection on it, in which case you will need to take it to the dealer for them to unlock it.

 

But I haven’t changed the module.. I’ve change the lift gate motors and still can’t get it to work

 

I've had the gas-lift supports on both sides become so weak that it would only just unlatch/pop open, then the rear hatch would fail to move from that position. Again, emphasis on ensuring your lift-supports are still capable of lifting the heavy hatch, as they are what supports the weight of the hatch, and the 'motors' simply control the movement of the hatch and are able to stop it opening at variable heights that you can set via the 'close' button in the hatch bottom edge. Most of what the motors do is provide a height variable stopping point, and in the closing motion of the rear hatch/liftgate.

Takeaway: If your gas-lift supports are weak, even just on one side of the hatch opening, then your hatch is not going to open on it's own. If you try to open it manually and are getting no support from those gas-lift struts (yeah, the hatch is heavy and moving in a vertical plane) then it will be very difficult to lift it up, and it will definitely drop on you and slam shut as its' weight is no longer supported by the two lift-support struts. This has zero to do with the motors. If you did plug in a new module/motor/device to this car, and it isn't recognized, then it will throw trouble codes. The hatch support struts last only a few years at most, so try to buy some that offer a lifetime guarantee.

 

I know this os an old thread but hoping for an assist. Had issues with the boot not opening and replaced the boot lifters they were shot. It opens beautifully now, but has the reverse issue. When i push the assist close button the lod drops about s foot then the car stoos trying to close the lid. It seems the gas lifyers are over powering the auto close motors. A y one had this before??

 

Yes, I had this issue the first time I replaced the gas lifts.... Turns out, the lifts, while a physical fit for the gate, were not fully compatible with the motors and just didn't sync up in terms of their pressure pattern. I returned to the original lifts and went back to "the way it was," returned the replacements, and bought a set off FCP Euro. The second new pair resolved all issues.