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07 Q7 Strut / Shock Replacement Parts Question

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Old Apr 27, 2022 | 10:20 AM
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Default 07 Q7 Strut / Shock Replacement Parts Question

I bought new Bilstein struts and shocks for my 07 Q7. Should I replace anything else as far as shock/strut assembly parts? I was thinking the mounts with the bearings at the least. My Q7 has 111K on it...
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Old Apr 27, 2022 | 03:09 PM
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Get new mounts, all four are the same. Some reuse the mounts, but I would not. These are technically all "shock absorbers" and do not have bearings. My bump stops were all in good shape for reuse, but the dust bellows all bit the dust, so to speak. I used aftermarket KYB ones. IIRC SB104, about $10-12 a kit of bellow and bump stop?? These are not OE fit and will not click into the upper mount as the OE ones do. I do not remember if the bump stops fit the rear shocks with a smaller rod diameter, I think they do for the fronts.

I placed the new bellow between the bump stop and the mount, the bump stop holds it up nicely. Or you can assemble the KYB bump stop according to their instructions, pointy side up and the bottom into the groove in the bellow and use it that way. I just reused the old bump stops. I believe the OE bellows are about $70 a piece and bump stops about $40 each. A good laugh anyway. What a joke. However you can opt for OE ones if you want exact fit.

Remove the white plastic lower bellow holder (or whatever you call it) from the original Sachs shocks. Bilsteins came with smaller black plastic covers. Lightly hammer to seat them onto the new shocks. The original ones will not fit the slightly larger Bilsteins properly. Do not use both together.

I used new Lemforder sway bar links front and rear, but in retrospect I could have just reused them. I got all new mounting nuts and bolts for the shocks.

This would be a good time to replace the upper control arm or at least the bushings. I used TRW control arms. I have not done anything with the lowers yet, trying to decide just the two inner bushings or new Lemforder control arms. The inner rear hydro bushing fails often.

My rear control arm bushings were so hardened that it was difficult to pry them down to remove the shock assembly. I had to loosen the two upper arm mounting bolts on the inner side. If you do that pick up new nuts and bolts from the dealer. These are torque to yield, just like the large mounting nuts and bolts for the shocks as well as the upper control arms.

Some videos helpful to me:
https://www.audiworld.com/forums/q7-.../#post25689112

Last edited by Steelcoil; Apr 27, 2022 at 03:33 PM.
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Old Apr 27, 2022 | 03:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Steelcoil
Get new mounts, all four are the same. Some reuse the mounts, but I would not. These are technically all "shock absorbers" and do not have bearings. My bump stops were all in good shape for reuse, but the dust bellows all bit the dust, so to speak. I used aftermarket KYB ones. IIRC SB104, about $10-12 a kit of bellow and bump stop?? These are not OE fit and will not click into the upper mount as the OE ones do. I do not remember if the bump stops fit the rear shocks with a smaller rod diameter, I think they do for the fronts.

I placed the new bellow between the bump stop and the mount, the bump stop holds it up nicely. Or you can assemble the KYB bump stop according to their instructions, pointy side up and the bottom into the groove in the bellow and use it that way. I just reused the old bump stops. I believe the OE bellows are about $70 a piece and bump stops about $40 each. A good laugh anyway. What a joke. However you can opt for OE ones if you want exact fit.

Remove the white plastic lower bellow holder (or whatever you call it) from the original Sachs shocks. Bilsteins came with smaller black plastic covers. Lightly hammer to seat them onto the new shocks. The original ones will not fit the slightly larger Bilsteins properly. Do not use both together.

I used new Lemforder sway bar links front and rear, but in retrospect I could have just reused them. I got all new mounting nuts and bolts for the shocks.

This would be a good time to replace the upper control arm or at least the bushings. I used TRW control arms. I have not done anything with the lowers yet, trying to decide just the two inner bushings or new Lemforder control arms. The inner rear hydro bushing fails often.

My rear control arm bushings were so hardened that it was difficult to pry them down to remove the shock assembly. I had to loosen the two upper arm mounting bolts on the inner side. If you do that pick up new nuts and bolts from the dealer. These are torque to yield, just like the large mounting nuts and bolts for the shocks as well as the upper control arms.

Some videos helpful to me:
https://www.audiworld.com/forums/q7-.../#post25689112
Thank you, very helpful...

I dont have the equipment to do this job myself, so I am going to have an Audi/VW shop install them. I will get the mounts, control arm bushings, dust bellows and nuts/bolts.



Last edited by bg_2007Q7; Apr 27, 2022 at 03:48 PM.
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Old Apr 27, 2022 | 03:45 PM
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You are welcome!

Also, if you have aluminum lower arms, then the rear hydro bushing is the larger diameter one. I think it was 72mm instead of 60mm or something like that. Your dealer should be able to pull the correct part numbers using the VIN number. If you purchase Lemforder in the aftermarket I believe in my case it would be the 7L0407182G and NOT the 7L0407182E.

Control arm bushings:
https://www.rmeuropean.com/Make/Audi...?catalogID=016

Inspect to see if the control arm ball joint boots are in good condition and not leaky grease before you opt for bushing replacement vs getting new control arms. The front lower camber adjuster bolts have a habit of seizing to the arm in salt belts. I would only use Lemforder (or TRW, which owns ZF and Lemforder) lower control arms if you do need new arms.
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Old Apr 27, 2022 | 03:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Steelcoil
You are welcome!

Also, if you have aluminum lower arms, then the rear hydro bushing is the larger diameter one. I think it was 72mm instead of 60mm or something like that. Your dealer should be able to pull the correct part numbers using the VIN number. If you purchase Lemforder in the aftermarket I believe in my case it would be the 7L0407182G and NOT the 7L0407182E.

Control arm bushings:
https://www.rmeuropean.com/Make/Audi...?catalogID=016

Inspect to see if the control arm ball joint boots are in good condition and not leaky grease before you opt for bushing replacement vs getting new control arms. The front lower camber adjuster bolts have a habit of seizing to the arm in salt belts. I would only use Lemforder (or TRW, which owns ZF and Lemforder) lower control arms if you do need new arms.
Wow, i didnt realize how big of a job this would be. I see there are alot of control arm bushings, i will get Lemforder, but could i trouble you for a short list of bushings to get (upper, lower, inner, outer, qty of each)? I'm a little lost, go figure...

Also, my 07 Q7 is a 3.6L Premium model. Do you think they put the aluminum lower control arms on it with the larger bushing?

I really hope the control arm ball joints are intact. I didn't realize how much control arms cost. I guess i need to get under there and take a look.

Last edited by bg_2007Q7; Apr 27, 2022 at 03:54 PM.
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Old Apr 27, 2022 | 04:01 PM
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I did not replace or intend to replace ANY REAR control arms or their bushings. They all seem to be in good shape, like the sway bar links. At least mine anyway. You will have to inspect yours. Mine too is a 3.6L Premium and have aluminum arms.

My front upper control arm bushings were torn and squeaking. After I removed the upper control arms I found that the ball joints and boots were still in good shape. This is quality control arm Audi used! According to the RM European catalog, I believe each upper arm takes TWO 7L0407077 bushings.

Please verify the correct fitment with your dealer and VIN number. Upper control arm, TWO each side of this:
https://www.rmeuropean.com/Products/...G69-V1001.aspx
https://www.audiusaparts.com/oem-par...hing-7l0407077

Lower control arm, ONE each side of:
Inner rear hydro bushing:
https://www.rmeuropean.com/Products/...G69-V1001.aspx
https://www.audiusaparts.com/oem-par...ing-7l0407182g


Inner front solid bushing:
https://www.rmeuropean.com/Products/...G69-V1001.aspx
https://www.audiusaparts.com/oem-par...hing-7l8407183

My outer front solid bushing (where the shock mounts to) appeared to be in good shape, and I do not plan to replace this one if I do the bushing-replacement. But this is it:
https://www.rmeuropean.com/Products/...292-V1001.aspx
https://www.audiusaparts.com/oem-par...ing-7l0412333a

Clearly the dealer prices are ridiculous. A new Lemforder arm would be more cost effective. LOL

TRW front upper arm (out of stock):
https://www.rmeuropean.com/Products/...G80-V1001.aspx

Lemforder front lowers:
https://www.rmeuropean.com/Products/...G69-V1001.aspx
https://www.rmeuropean.com/Products/...G69-V1001.aspx

Last edited by Steelcoil; Apr 27, 2022 at 05:12 PM.
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Old Apr 27, 2022 | 04:09 PM
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See also, Touareg with steel lower arms uses the 60 mm bushing:
https://www.clubtouareg.com/threads/...-bushes.63300/
https://www.clubtouareg.com/threads/...numbers.80445/

This 2007 Q7 lower arm DIY. Looks like he had aluminum arms but put in new steel arms!! That is going backwards from what DIYers do (going from steel to aluminum).

Last edited by Steelcoil; Apr 27, 2022 at 04:13 PM.
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Old Apr 27, 2022 | 04:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Steelcoil
I did not replace or intend to replace ANY REAR control arms or their bushings. They all seem to be in good shape, like the sway bar links. At least mine anyway. You will have to inspect yours. Mine too is a 3.6L Premium and have aluminum arms.

My front upper control arm bushings were torn and squeaking. After I removed the upper control arms I found that the ball joints and boots were still in good shape. This is quality control arm Audi used! According to the RM European catalog, I believe each upper arm takes TWO 7L0407077 bushings.

Please verify the correct fitment with your dealer and VIN number. Upper control arm, two each side of this:
https://www.rmeuropean.com/Products/...G69-V1001.aspx
https://www.audiusaparts.com/oem-par...hing-7l0407077

Lower control arm, two each side of:
Inner rear hydro bushing:
https://www.rmeuropean.com/Products/...G69-V1001.aspx
https://www.audiusaparts.com/oem-par...ing-7l0407182g


Inner front solid bushing:
https://www.rmeuropean.com/Products/...G69-V1001.aspx
https://www.audiusaparts.com/oem-par...hing-7l8407183

My outer front solid bushing (where the shock mounts to) appeared to be in good shape, and I do not plan to replace this one if I do the bushing-replacement. But this is it:
https://www.rmeuropean.com/Products/...292-V1001.aspx
https://www.audiusaparts.com/oem-par...ing-7l0412333a

Clearly the dealer prices are ridiculous. A new Lemforder arm would be more cost effective. LOL

TRW front upper arm (out of stock):
https://www.rmeuropean.com/Products/...G80-V1001.aspx

Lemforder front lowers:
https://www.rmeuropean.com/Products/...G69-V1001.aspx
https://www.rmeuropean.com/Products/...G69-V1001.aspx
Thanks again!, that helps so much. I will call the dealer with my vin to see if I have the smaller/larger lower control arm bushings.

Yes the oem part prices are crazy expensive...

Last edited by bg_2007Q7; Apr 27, 2022 at 04:20 PM.
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Old Apr 27, 2022 | 07:40 PM
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Go look at FCP Euro and Rock Auto websites; I always compare pricing and Rock Auto is well known to have multiple part options and a lot of 'closeout' deals. FCP sells both the OE, and OEM parts, and at a discount. At the least, you 'll get the correct part#s as reference, and you may be shocked at the deals you find.

While it's nice to replace lots of the hard to reach stuff when doing the struts, get a professional eval done if you don't really know cars that well, or you may well be spending the kids inheritance or your own retirement fund before your done with that 'snipe hunt'. The main things are going to be the known wear parts/bits, and when struts are off you change the strut mounts, replace the protective dust boots and urethane bump stops...those OEM bump stops are peanuts from the right site, btw, I've seen them listed...probably was Rock Auto. You can pay a lot of $$ for just about anything, but you don't have to; just be smart about where you shop and price shop by part# search on the internet. I like to look at Rock Auto as it gives you a nice range of pricing option for diff quality parts, and you'll see TRW and Lemforder, etc., there too. The main thing is you get a get a good 'feel' for what things should cost, and like I said, often you can get tremendous deals on Rock Auto via close-out /overstock purchases, etc., and get exactly what you need.

Just bought a complete new air compressor and valve-block setup for air suspension from there, and got a great deal; trust me I shopped hard on that one, as those parts can be very expensive if you don't.

Good luck; this is not something you can do over the forum so much except for the advice bit. Your car is your car and it's in the condition it's in, and we don't know what that is, what your level of DIY skills is, or what you will find if you dive into it yourself. Get a professional inspection if you need one, so you'll know what requires servicing besides your struts, and not be spinning your wheels. Spending $100 is a really good investment, if you don't know what really needs doing on your car.
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Old Apr 27, 2022 | 07:46 PM
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Originally Posted by '10Q7TDI_Prestige'
Go look at FCP Euro and Rock Auto websites; I always compare pricing and Rock Auto is well known to have multiple part options and a lot of 'closeout' deals. FCP sells both the OE, and OEM parts, and at a discount. At the least, you 'll get the correct part#s as reference, and you may be shocked at the deals you find.

While it's nice to replace lots of the hard to reach stuff when doing the struts, get a professional eval done if you don't really know cars that well, or you may well be spending the kids inheritance or your own retirement fund before your done with that 'snipe hunt'. The main things are going to be the known wear parts/bits, and when struts are off you change the strut mounts, replace the protective dust boots and urethane bump stops...those OEM bump stops are peanuts from the right site, btw, I've seen them listed...probably was Rock Auto. You can pay a lot of $$ for just about anything, but you don't have to; just be smart about where you shop and price shop by part# search on the internet. I like to look at Rock Auto as it gives you a nice range of pricing option for diff quality parts, and you'll see TRW and Lemforder, etc., there too. The main thing is you get a get a good 'feel' for what things should cost, and like I said, often you can get tremendous deals on Rock Auto via close-out /overstock purchases, etc., and get exactly what you need.

Just bought a complete new air compressor and valve-block setup for air suspension from there, and got a great deal; trust me I shopped hard on that one, as those parts can be very expensive if you don't.

Good luck; this is not something you can do over the forum so much except for the advice bit. Your car is your car and it's in the condition it's in, and we don't know what that is, what your level of DIY skills is, or what you will find if you dive into it yourself. Get a professional inspection if you need one, so you'll know what requires servicing besides your struts, and not be spinning your wheels. Spending $100 is a really good investment, if you don't know what really needs doing on your car.
Thank you, i will let the shop doing the install inspect it first and tell me what needs replaced. I know basics like doing the brakes or changing the oil but I haven't ventured into the Audi suspension world yet. I appreciate the comment!
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