Title.. is this just too big/hard of a job for a DIY'er to attempt off internet forums and Youtube videos and best left to a mechanic? How many hours would it take a skilled mechanic? I'm guessing it would take me 2-3x as long..

 

What model are we walking about here? The 2.0T? I am assuming you are referring to the rear mail seal and, no, it's not really DIY. You have to remove the engine or transmission to do it..... so unless you are a highly skilled wrench with lots of tools, this is a job to send to your indy......

Check your crankcase vacuum with a manometer and make sure you replace the PCV before the diaphragm becomes compromised. Crankcase vacuum above spec can cause the RMS to be sucked in... I have the old style on my 2014 and at 130K+ miles it doesn't leak at all.

 

Just did it a month ago. I have the original repair manual, but I followed the legend naptowntuner's guide on YT. It was really no problem at all, but I'm not that experienced so it took about 40 hours of chill wrenching. I also had a friend help me with the lifting part as it's good to be two and I'm not that comfortable balancing the engine out. I did it without removing the front bumper too. Only problem was actually one of the catalytic converter bolts that's almost impossible to get to. Also getting the wiring harness refitted took a lot of time. But to say what's DIY or not depends completely on who does it.

 

I would certainly DIY the RMS, on the 2.0T. That task is easy. It's the precursor task of dropping the transmission that's a real %^#@. But that task is certainly DIY'able, if you do DIY on that scale. And aren't afraid of sourcing appropriate tools, or helpers, to get the job done safely. The ZF automatic transmission is 300+ lbs. If this is the 3.2L V6, that's probably an engine pull task. Again, DIY, sure, if you have the tool set and space to actually do it.

 

The only reason I would say I would do a rear main seal is that I have an engine lift and engine stand. Otherwise, no freaking way. My old trucks all have rear main seal leaks that are minor. Doubt I'll ever replace them. They rarely leak much.

 

@SMac770 I didn't know the ZF auto was that heavy. Do you know the weight of the DSG fitted to the A4?

 

There's no DSG on any Audi. You'll only find a DSG in Volkswagen paperwork. The DCT on the B9 A4, the DL382, Audi doesn't come out and say. But the DL and AL are definitely in a different weight class vs the ML.

MLB era transmissions, from Audi's SSPs:
ML311-6F (0B1) was ~ 68 kg (150 lbs)
ML311-6Q (0B2) was ~ 79 kg (173 lbs)
ML351-6F (0B3) was ~ 77 kg (170 lbs)
ML451-6Q (0B4) was ~ 86-88 kg (190-194 lbs)
DL501-7Q (0B5) was ~142 kg (313 lbs)
AL651-6Q (0B6) was ~ 136 kg (300 lbs)
AL551-8F (0BK) was ?
AL551-8Q (0BK) / AL951-8Q (0BL) were 141-146 kg (311-322 lbs)
AL551-8FE (0BW) was ~ 150 kg (331 lbs)
AL551-8QE (0BW) was ~156 kg (344 lbs)

Don't know about the 0AW CVT. The prior gen 01J CVT was ~ 88 kg (194 lbs).
So quattro added around 10kg for the 6MTs, but only about 6kg for the ZF8s. The 0B5 and 0B6 were only quattro. The 40 kW e-motor in the 0BW for the hybrids (HEV, not MHEV or PHEV) added 10-15 kg.

Audi over the past 10 years goes out of its way to not document specifications, it would appear.. Starting with the MLBevo SSPs, Audi doesn't document any weight of any thing. So for the second gen ZF 8HP (0D5, 0D6, 0D7) and the second gen DCT (DL382; 0CJ, 0CK, 0CL, 0HL), don't know offhand.

vwatj.com lists the DL382-7F (0CK) as 116 kg (255 lbs). That's FWD; the quattro tend to run ~10kg more on the ZF stuff. So assume DL382-7A (0CJ) and DL382-7Q (0CL) around 125 kg (275 lbs)?

 

I have the 2015 Q5 3.0T Prestige.

What do you think is a reasonable price to do the job for an indy?

 

$1500 to $1800

Depends on their hourly rate