Hello everyone,

I’m back from a very long 3 year break.

it’s been over 3 years since my last thread where I was searching for an a8 w12 and I came across an s8 at an auction I tend to surf around.

I took a look at it, and I was really impressed with how well things were holding up. Long story short, bidding comes on the final day, and I start my action on the auction.

some time later, we end at the very top of my budget, the last bid I was submitted before I tapped out. Well the other guy pulled out and I’m now the proud owner of an 07 s8 d3 that has no key and hasn’t been run in 5 years.

However, that’s where the story gets interesting. Looking through the paperwork, the car was stored in a storage unit in late 2019 think cube smart or U-Haul, and was in there until April of 2024 where the owner stopped paying for the unit, and the car was taken to impound. 90 days later, I’m the new owner of this paperweight

service records show last registration was 2020 in Maryland, with the front struts being replaced right before in late 2019 before it was stored. Brake pads and rotors replaced before that as well

frequent oil changes as well so this car was serviced fairly frequently and so that made me more intrigued to take this on as a project

since my last post, I’ve added 3 cars to my stable, all bmw’s as that’s where my heart lies. I currently own an e38 750 v12, e82 128, f32 428, and a g12 750 v8.

these cars are my pride and joy but now being able to join the Audi crew I’m excited to take this on and learn from my German brothers.

I’ve already gotten a quote for a key so that will be ordered in the next couple of days. Car is completely flat, we’ve hooked up the car via the front post in the passenger footwell to get power but could not open the fuel door or trunk yet. I think once we get the key, or find it potentially in the car, will help us move things along.

while I’m not sure what the plans are with the car, I plan on getting it back to road worthy status and do it’s needed maintenance to make her sing again.

open to any and all advice and here’s the picture tax!

 

Welcome (back?)! Will be interesting to see how this goes; good luck!!!
Edit: SIXTY FOUR bids got it to only $1800?!? Were ya bidding in five dollar increments?!?

 

lol 25 XD

but thanks, excited to get something going

 

Alright just got back from my trip, here is the situation.

I have no key, and need to get a replacement. Anyone know mobile key duplicators in the central texas area? My dealership is saying keys are coming in miscut, and if it doesn't work when it gets here, it cannot be refunded or replaced.

I called another store, and they said there was a 1-2 month back order :/

Next problem: battery. I took it out and put it on my ctek charger to try and recondition it to recharge and use temporarily to get codes and a key programmed. The charger couldn't even recognize it was hooked up to the battery so I guess it's new battery time ahead of schedule

Quick edit: Got in contact with an audi expert through a friend of mine. we're getting key ordered and they will be able to program it at the dealer. turn around time is looking right around 2 weeks so in the mean time I'm going to prep the car by emptying it out, cleaning the inside best I can, outside if possible too but there's no water faucet around where the car is currently.

I've pumped air into the tires so the car isn't touching the floor as much, and we're going to try and kick on the compressor by sending power to the fuse as mentioned in a thread I found previously!

 

Ok so quick update, the key has arrived but we don't think it was programmed since I think the car has to be at the dealer to associate it with the car. However, since it's at least cut, we should be able to put the car in accessory, which takes me to point 2, the battery has arrived as well.

I should be picking them up in the next couple of days, however, I wanted to ask a few questions before I even try to start the car up. Typical procedure for me would be:

1. check oil - Done, has oil but will need to be changed but at least we're not dry.
2. check coolant - Done, has coolant but level is low, will top off with distilled water.
3. check fuel - this is question 1. Where is the fuel filter? I want to run the pump with the fuel filter inlet hose off to prevent running more varnished fuel through, while emptying out the tank to put new fuel in
4. build oil pressure - question 2. what relay is for the fuel pumps? how can i give the car a couple cranks without it trying to start the car, assuming i have the fuel pump relays out to allow oil to build
5. check for codes - once battery is in, and car is in accessory, will the air compressor for the suspension kick on? what is a good code reader for VAG's before i go buying the full suite? I have a lot of bmw obd readers but would be curious of simple audi readers that can give audi specifics. BMW has bimmerlink/code so I'm curious if someone in the audi community has developed a similar platform

 

So stopped by the car when I got the key and battery, and seem to not have a properly cut key blade. As expected the key was not programmed. I was expecting to be able to put the key and battery in, and at least put it in accessory mode to pump up the suspension. Unfortunately, it seems not so. The key does not go in without a serious amount of wiggling and jimmying, and additionally, it does not go into the cylinders all the way of the trunk and door.

our local audi dealer where we bought the key suggested using a wire brush to clean off any burrs... eye roll. And if that doesn't work, order a new key. Ok so let's order a new key

So back to square one. The person who was able to source the key has vagcom, so we should be able to connect to it, however, my next questions is how do we power it on to a mode that allows us to connect to obd and read codes? I read in one thread you push on the brake for 20 seconds? Can anyone confirm?

 

So Audi couldn’t source a correct replacement key?

 

it's from an audi dealer, genuine key. gave them my vin and everything.

 

As the original keys are missing (likely because a repo in a past life), there a good chance the lock cylinders have been damaged by previous shops/owners trying to pick them. You’ll probably need to order new lock cylinders to go with the new key.

Is the new OEM key bad in all 5 lock cylinders? Both front doors, trunk, ignition, glove box?

 

i will double check the glove box and passenger door, but considering the three I listed did not fit, I will guess the other two don’t either.

HOWEVER, i don’t think there were ever any repo’s just the abandoned state due to lack of paying on the storage unit. I don’t think a damaged cylinder is out of the question, so can’t rule it out.

I’ll report back on the other cylinders.

quick edit, I’ve tested all the lock cylinders. Driver door, ignition, glove box and trunk. No passenger key lock but in all cases except the ignition, the key blade only goes in 1/3 to 1/2 into the locks.

when I put it into the ignition, since battery was out, it got stuck, but I hooked up some jumper cables and released the key.

having 4/4 cylinders not working does not sit right with me and think It is a miscut key. Its not bad to assume that another smarty pants would test all 4 locks as well but seems less likely that they’re swapped than a key being wrong.

in either case, I will look into removing the kessy and potentially the ignition cylinder as well to have the dealership ensure the key works, AND program it without the car having to be there.

does this sound like a good strategy?