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D3 Audi S8 Heater Hose Rupture

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Old Sep 17, 2024 | 11:18 AM
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Default D3 Audi S8 Heater Hose Rupture

Hey everyone, just got back from a 4-hour drive from the middle of the countryside and right as I pulled in the parking garage the heater hose exploded (see photos below). It was about 28 degrees Celsius so this could have played a part in the pressure on the system. This appears to be in a nasty spot so was wondering if anyone has had this issue and if the entire hose requires replacement. It seems that the hose through wear and tear has released at the top of the clamp spot close to the release. There was a very slow coolant leak before this happened but was very gradual and did not leave wet spots in the undercarriage. Would love to fix this as I daily this car, but unsure if it's an intake-off job in a hard-to-reach place. Any part number anyone can provide or tips for easier replacement would be much appreciated.

Car: D3 Audi S8, 177,000 km. Location of hose: top left of engine bay by the firewall.





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Old Sep 17, 2024 | 01:50 PM
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I don't know much about the S8 cooling system but that could be this: aux coolant water pump heater pipe hose 4E0819674A. Looks like if indeed that's what it is, you may have some success replacing that busted part with brass elbow fittings and be creative with the bleed screw.
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Old Sep 17, 2024 | 02:07 PM
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Originally Posted by AEightSilver
I don't know much about the S8 cooling system but that could be this: aux coolant water pump heater pipe hose 4E0819674A. Looks like if indeed that's what it is, you may have some success replacing that busted part with brass elbow fittings and be creative with the bleed screw.
Thanks for the insights, this was helpful! Seems like eBay may have what I'm looking for. I guess the real question is whether the leak is only coming from the rupture point or if the whole hose is toast.
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Old Sep 18, 2024 | 09:44 AM
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Not sure if it was the same as mine, but on my W12 had a similar looking setup in the same space. My situation was hoses going to the heater control valve. Take the cover off and you can see where it goes. I replace both of mine while I was there. I just recognize the break because at the plastic junction with bleeder.
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Old Sep 19, 2024 | 05:10 PM
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Need to examine closely. It may be that plastic bleeder fitting itself. Only comes w/ the hose assembly. As TSHong said, one end of these ends with the heater control block under the plastic cowl covers at base of windshield/screen. From experience, the black plastic fittings on these does eventually rot. First daw it on W12 about a dozen years in, and a few more since.

Definitely a dealer part. If no longer available, try Ebay. May still find new old stock there (especially in Europe), or certainly ones off used cars.
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Old Sep 19, 2024 | 07:48 PM
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Did you replace just the plastic valve portion or the entire hose? Stuck now on how to get the hose clamped so I can get it to a shop since I don't have the space or tools...
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Old Sep 19, 2024 | 07:51 PM
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Yes it appears to be the point where the hose meets the plastic valve that wore down and tore. Would it make sense to go through the process of replacing the entire hose as it comes from the dealer or to replace the valve? I imagine it would be tricky to do just the valve but also do not have a way to clamp the broken hose to drive to a shop to do the whole fix. Thanks for your insights!
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Old Sep 19, 2024 | 07:52 PM
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Originally Posted by MP4.2+6.0
Need to examine closely. It may be that plastic bleeder fitting itself. Only comes w/ the hose assembly. As TSHong said, one end of these ends with the heater control block under the plastic cowl covers at base of windshield/screen. From experience, the black plastic fittings on these does eventually rot. First daw it on W12 about a dozen years in, and a few more since.

Definitely a dealer part. If no longer available, try Ebay. May still find new old stock there (especially in Europe), or certainly ones off used cars.
Yes it appears to be the point where the hose meets the plastic valve that wore down and tore. Would it make sense to go through the process of replacing the entire hose as it comes from the dealer or to replace the valve? I imagine it would be tricky to do just the valve but also do not have a way to clamp the broken hose to drive to a shop to do the whole fix. Thanks for your insights!
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Old Sep 19, 2024 | 07:53 PM
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Originally Posted by TSHong
Not sure if it was the same as mine, but on my W12 had a similar looking setup in the same space. My situation was hoses going to the heater control valve. Take the cover off and you can see where it goes. I replace both of mine while I was there. I just recognize the break because at the plastic junction with bleeder.
Did you replace just the plastic valve portion or the entire hose? Stuck now on how to get the hose clamped so I can get it to a shop since I don't have the space or tools...
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Old Sep 19, 2024 | 09:04 PM
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Perhaps take one more careful look at the exact set up, and try to get some inside diameter measurements of the hose or outside diameter of the fittings. Then head to a decent hardware store that carries barbed plastic fittings. They are used with poly flexible pipe and other materials . Home Depot has some, as will a bigger Ace. An irrigation supply place is particularly good. Look through the bins, study what you have, figure out where you can cut and clamp it and have at it. Sometime sold in cloudy white plastic, sometimes in. gray, sometimes in (pricy) brass in some of the smaller sizes.

One other possible is simply take BOTH lines that go into the cowl area--the in and out heater hoses and join them together, again with some fitting TBD and some hose clamps. If like my W12, it will be tight back in that area, but hopefully you can figure out a temporary patch.

Also realize if hose is screwed up right near the fitting and you can reach a bit further along it, cut out the clearly bad part, get a barbed straight connector and then some heater hose from an auto parts store and just construct a replacement extension piece and clamp it off.
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