Hi all, Have a 2012 Q5. 3.2 FSI - Australia based (right hand drive)

After checking oil, water, etc, went to crank it, starts and runs, but I'm getting a knocking noise consistent with the revs coming from the intake manifold, and very front upper side of the engine.

When you let the car warm up and idle at 900~rpm, it eventually runs a bit rough, but you can slowly rev it to 2, or 3000rpm and it revs up and down fine.
The knocking noise will resonate up and down with the revs - it does not go away completely, it just softens as the revs go up, but as the revs come down to idle the knocking noise deepends again.

This tells me, potentially that it's not timing, or chain related. If the timing had jumped or a valves smacked a piston - i believe it would sound and run a loooot worse.
I've done the full timing chain on a 2015 Range rover 5.0 supercharged - took me 2 months and 6K in parts.. and it was a MESS - this Q5 does not show anywhere near the same symptoms or signs.

Error codes: P0390 - Camshaft position sensor B Circuit Bank 2.
P0304/5/6 - misfire on cyl 4/5/6.

I've swapped the exhaust side camshaft position sensor from left to right - same codes after clearing them out so it cant be the camshaft position sensor.
Can anyone confirm if this variant has 4 camshaft pos sensors ? i can only see 2, on the exhaust cams.

There is some oil residue over the passenger side cam cover, looks to have seaped from the oil filler.
There is some oil around the coil packs, and the coil packs do look dated, showing signs of corrosion and maybe rust inside.

Next job: swap the coil packs from left to right, and throw in some new spark plugs while i'm there - clear codes, and re-scan and see if the P-0xxx codes follow the swap or stay on passenger (right) side.

The knocking noise though.. it literally sounds like a supercharger pully is rattling (i know these cars are a V6 NA - but for reference of noise)

I got a clear 4K video of it here, if it helps.

You Tube

 

Also -

When trying to select a gear or reverse, it eventually stalls as if it's running out of fuel.

struggles to move back and forward - no power at all.

 

The 3.2 engine that is used on the Q5 (CALB) has variable valve timing on both the intake and the exhaust so there are position sensors for all four camshafts. For bank 1 the intake camshaft position sensor is next to the high pressure fuel pump while for bank 2 is installed next to the vacuum pump.
Based on the sound I would say that you have a timing issue on bank 2, more than likely the upper timing chain guide or the upper timing chain tensioner failed and the chain jumped one tooth. This is a common failure point of the old / high mileage Audi V6, V8 and V10 engines that have the timing chains installed in the back. You might also have a problem with one of the camshafts adjusters but this is not that common.
You will have to check the measuring blocks for the camshaft position using VCDS or remove the cylinder head covers and try to install the camshaft locking tools.
Emil has a good video about this issue.

 

this is awesome information Alex i appreciate this, i will most likely have to tackle the upper timing chain tensioner i fear ! but as i remove and inspect items - i will post back here so others can reference and learn,

thanks again,

 

I have a very similar sound on the driver's side, I think I'll have to deal with the other side (I've already fixed the passenger side without removing the engine). It turned out that the chain guide was damaged. I also had the check engine light and errors P0016, P0302, P0341, P0300

 

Update:

Have been chipping away at this,

SO i put new spark plugs in, swapped coil packs left to right, and all 4 cam position sensors left to right - that's where the last reply had left off.

I borrowed dads compression testor, it's a good one that screws into the spark plug thread and is rated to 300psi.

Bank 1 (Drivers side in Australia - left side when facing engine from front), Cyl 1/2/3 gave me consistent 210psi.
Bank 2 (Passenger side), Cyl 4/5 gave me consistent 180-190psi with a tiny bit of oil residue around the end of the comp test thread.
Cyl 6 (closest to firewall on passenger side) gave me 110psi and a lot of oil residue around the comp test host head that threads into the spark plug hole.

My theory - 1: either my valve stem seals are leaking oil badly in cyl 4/5 and heavily on Cyl 6.
Or, 2: the Cam Girdle ? is that what you call it ? the gasket between that girdle and the head is leaking oil in.

Theory 1 could explain the knocking noises im hearing if the valve springs, or something is getting stuck while the cams turning and meant to be pushing valves down/up
Theory 2 does not explain the knocking / clacking noise.

i'm trying to avoid all things point to rod-knock. Or else at that point i would probably find a 2nd hand engine, and drop it in and use the better parts off of my (potentially broken) engine.

Next Steps i'll troubleshoot:

Undo Cam-covers, somehow turn the crank and find TDC, and ensure all 4 cams have the timing bolt holes pointing upward in the same direction and dummy fit 4 bolts and measure their distance apart,
Undo timing chain cover and investigate, look for broken guides, plastic, and generally feel for bounce or looseness in the tensioner.