When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Q5 Sway Bar Links- Can't Get At Bolt Head for Re & Re ?
Have one link that is toast, please see picture. The rubber bushing has separated from the link housing making it impossible to get a wrench on the bolt head for bolt removal?
Any suggestions for bolt removal?
Is it Sawzall time to cut the bolt?
Will there be tension or load on the actual sway bar when replacing these links that I need to be careful of?
TIA
As long as both wheels are at the same height, bar should be unloaded, as I understand it. I didn't get any issue when detaching the link from the strut when I did my front arms; both wheels were hanging unloaded (car was up on jacks). As for that bolt, it might be easier to remove the upper bolt and get the link out of the way. Then you can have an easier time finding the bolt head in there. Cut the rubber off if need be.
Thanks. Looks like a standard bolt head.
I would only have one wheel off at a time. I could put a bottle jack under control arm to get sway bar at similar height to other side.
Thanks. Looks like a standard bolt head.
I would only have one wheel off at a time. I could put a bottle jack under control arm to get sway bar at similar height to other side.
You definitely want the same load on both wheels. Otherwise it will be more difficult to remove the bolt and the sway bar will kick hard and be dangerous as the bolt is removed. Unloading both front wheels might be the best option. And might be easier to cut thru the link as it is just plastic, but I would keep clear of the sway bar as best you can. Given the one link is wonky, there may be some load on the sway bar even with weight off of both wheels.
Another thought... See if you can get a vise-grip between the sway bar and link to hold the bolt and then loosen the nut.
Thanks, I will get both front wheels off the ground to reduce risks with sway bar loading.
Vice grips good idea.
Both my front links are metal, I assume aluminum. I see plastic versions are available but plan to buy the metal versions.
I was in the plastics industry for 37 years....not sure I like the plastic versions for this application.
Those are definitely the plastic ones, 8K0411317D.
It was eventually replaced by the metal ones, 4G0411317A. https://wolfautoparts.com/stabilizer...a-ps87761.html
The metal ones were originally spec'd for the B8.5 Q5 for the rough roads of Russia and "BY", wherever that is. But I guess parts supply eventually pushed using 4G...A as a sub for original 8K...D applications.
And that itself is now replaced by 4M0411317, then 4M0411317J, now 4M0411317L.
Audi considers the plastic and metal functionally equivalent, but you must always have the same kind on both ends.
New Audi A6 Allroad Is The Market's Coolest Wagon: 9 Things to Know
Slideshow: Audi's latest A6 Allroad gets RS-style fenders, real off-road hardware, and enough personality to stand out in a market obsessed with crossovers.
Audi Recreates Crazy-Looking Speed Record Breaker From 1935
Slideshow: Audi has recreated one of the wildest machines of the pre-war speed-record era, reviving a streamlined V16 racer that originally exceeded 200 mph in 1935.
Q5 Sway Bar Links- Can't Get At Bolt Head for Re & Re ?
