Spark plug and ignition coil replacement isuses in the 3.0T
Thread Starter
AudiWorld Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2022
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
Spark plug and ignition coil replacement isuses in the 3.0T
So.. there is a longer story to how I got to this point, but suffice to say that it is currently not important. I am trying to replace the spark plugs and the issue I am currently facings is that while I did manage to get the ignition coils off of the 4,5, and 6 plugs, the damn rubber boots inside the coils ripped off and are stuck on the plugs down inside the engine. I assume that when I do the other side, I will probably have the same issue, so yipee... wasn't planning on buying new coils but that appears to be unavoidable. The more pressing issue is getting the rubber boots off of the plugs so that I can remove them. So, hive mind, what have you got for me? FWIW, I am not certain when the last time was that the plugs were changed. I have owned the car from 153k miles to now, which is about 225k miles. I have a friend that mentioned that there is a tool to get the boot off, but from what I am seeing, I am not sure that I am finding the right thing, and I don't want to eff this up.
On a related note, suggestions for new ignition coils? Do I really need to pay for the Audi branded ones, or can I get the NGK, Danso, or Hitachi ones?
On a related note, suggestions for new ignition coils? Do I really need to pay for the Audi branded ones, or can I get the NGK, Danso, or Hitachi ones?
AudiWorld Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 1,017
Likes: 180
From: South East USA
So.. there is a longer story to how I got to this point, but suffice to say that it is currently not important. I am trying to replace the spark plugs and the issue I am currently facings is that while I did manage to get the ignition coils off of the 4,5, and 6 plugs, the damn rubber boots inside the coils ripped off and are stuck on the plugs down inside the engine. I assume that when I do the other side, I will probably have the same issue, so yipee... wasn't planning on buying new coils but that appears to be unavoidable. The more pressing issue is getting the rubber boots off of the plugs so that I can remove them. So, hive mind, what have you got for me? FWIW, I am not certain when the last time was that the plugs were changed. I have owned the car from 153k miles to now, which is about 225k miles. I have a friend that mentioned that there is a tool to get the boot off, but from what I am seeing, I am not sure that I am finding the right thing, and I don't want to eff this up.
On a related note, suggestions for new ignition coils? Do I really need to pay for the Audi branded ones, or can I get the NGK, Danso, or Hitachi ones?
On a related note, suggestions for new ignition coils? Do I really need to pay for the Audi branded ones, or can I get the NGK, Danso, or Hitachi ones?
Once you get them out, get yourself some dielectric grease for the boots and never sieze for the plug threads
How did you get there, curious? Misfire? Like me?
AudiWorld Super User
Joined: Jan 2021
Posts: 4,565
Likes: 1,456
From: USA - NM
You can overpay for the OE Audi part, or just buy the OEM part directly, which is the exact same part as the OE, but simply at a lower price point. Since the service interval for the plugs/ignition coils is well surpassed by the miles you've driven it, it's definitely time to replace all of those key ignition parts. Go look up the service intervals and print those out.
One key service interval on the 3.0T engine is changing the oil like your motor's life depends on it...about every 6500 miles, or less, depending on how you drive it.
One key service interval on the 3.0T engine is changing the oil like your motor's life depends on it...about every 6500 miles, or less, depending on how you drive it.
AudiWorld Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 1,616
Likes: 517
From: Fairbanks, Alaska
I am not sure if this would be the right shape to reach in there, but I bought a set of these a couple years ago, and I am continually finding a use for them!
Thread Starter
AudiWorld Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2022
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
Been there recently! No Problem, but you will need a 6 - 8" pick/hook or dental hook. You can grab them out, but it could and did me, take several tries.
Once you get them out, get yourself some dielectric grease for the boots and never sieze for the plug threads
How did you get there, curious? Misfire? Like me?
Once you get them out, get yourself some dielectric grease for the boots and never sieze for the plug threads
How did you get there, curious? Misfire? Like me?
Thread Starter
AudiWorld Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2022
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
ok.. but which OEM part. I have seen multiple ones. Which brand do you prefer? I have seen Bosch, NGK, Carquest, Delphi, and Denso. I know that Hitachi is the OE maker according to the parts guy at the Audi shop I called.
The changing the oil thing is kind of funny to me. To quote the lyrics of a song... "I drive it like I stole it".... I do get the oil changed, but at the same time, I have a leak on the rear main seal, which, according to my mechanic is a $4000 leak. The car has 230k miles on it now, and I'm not sure that I want to spend that kind of cash on a 11 year old car, so I keep a 5 qt jug in the car at all times. As it is, Audi says that it is normal to use a quart roughly every 1k miles, and I get between 750 and 800, so, I cycle oil.
The changing the oil thing is kind of funny to me. To quote the lyrics of a song... "I drive it like I stole it".... I do get the oil changed, but at the same time, I have a leak on the rear main seal, which, according to my mechanic is a $4000 leak. The car has 230k miles on it now, and I'm not sure that I want to spend that kind of cash on a 11 year old car, so I keep a 5 qt jug in the car at all times. As it is, Audi says that it is normal to use a quart roughly every 1k miles, and I get between 750 and 800, so, I cycle oil.
AudiWorld Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2020
Posts: 28
Likes: 11
Trending Topics
Thread Starter
AudiWorld Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2022
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
Been there recently! No Problem, but you will need a 6 - 8" pick/hook or dental hook. You can grab them out, but it could and did me, take several tries.
Once you get them out, get yourself some dielectric grease for the boots and never sieze for the plug threads
How did you get there, curious? Misfire? Like me?
Once you get them out, get yourself some dielectric grease for the boots and never sieze for the plug threads
How did you get there, curious? Misfire? Like me?
AudiWorld Stories
Bringing Audi to Life for Audi Fans
10 Strangest Audi Designs That Actually Made Production
Joe Kucinski
2027 Audi Q7 and SQ7: Audi Upgraded EVERYTHING!
Michael S. Palmer
Audi Unveils Absurdly Cool New Supercar: 10 Things You Need to Know!
Verdad Gallardo
The Highs & Lows of Every Audi C-Class Generation
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 Most Expensive Audis Ever Sold on Bring-A-Trailer
Brett Foote
10 Audi Features & Options We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
Audi Recreates Crazy-Looking Speed Record Breaker From 1935
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilder Recreates the 1995 Audi TTS Concept
Verdad Gallardo
Every Audi V10 Car Ranked!
Joe Kucinski
AudiWorld Super User
Joined: Jan 2021
Posts: 4,565
Likes: 1,456
From: USA - NM
You've got to scan the car to see what it'll tell you about the fault issue. That's always the first thing you do. Thank goodness your mechanic lives across the street. 
That you are listing a generic P-code means your scan tool is 'meh', and not really supportive of a level of diagnostics on this car that will help you resolve minor issues quickly.
That you are listing a generic P-code means your scan tool is 'meh', and not really supportive of a level of diagnostics on this car that will help you resolve minor issues quickly.
Last edited by '10Q7TDI_Prestige'; Feb 26, 2025 at 03:01 PM.
Thread Starter
AudiWorld Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2022
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
You've got to scan the car to see what it'll tell you about the fault issue. That's always the first thing you do. Thank goodness your mechanic lives across the street.
That you are listing a generic P-code means your scan tool is 'meh', and not really supportive of a level of diagnostics on this car that will help you resolve minor issues quickly.
That you are listing a generic P-code means your scan tool is 'meh', and not really supportive of a level of diagnostics on this car that will help you resolve minor issues quickly.
oh.. it is totally a meh tool. I actually bought it for a different car that I had which used to throw a weird random error. Don't have that vehicle, but I still have the tool. That being said, I did drive the car up into the mountains and back, roughly 400 miles round trip, with no issues except that stupid check engine light. I got 1 cloud of white smoke on initial start up yesterday. after than. nothing. Car ran great, and way better MPG than I have been getting. Mechanic thinks that I need to replace the PCV/oil separator, but none of my research on that code indicate that as an issue. They all point to MAP and throttle position. I did see one post where someone suggested cleaning the throttle.
Thoughts?