Control Arms Clearance for early Q7s @ FCP Euro
If, like me, and you've looked at control arm sets/kits recently, then you know this is a steal of a deal; especially with all the new hardware and end links included. As it's from FCP, also has lifetime warranty/guarantee and free shipping. How many sets of these they have is unknown, but they are closing out their remaining inventory of this particular 'kit' from Meyle, so jump on it if you need them for your early model year Q7 through the 2010 facelift model.

Audi Control Arm Set
MEY-1160500190S
Price
$539.86
If, like me, and you've looked at control arm sets/kits recently, then you know this is a steal of a deal; especially with all the new hardware and end links included. As it's from FCP, also has lifetime warranty/guarantee and free shipping. How many sets of these they have is unknown, but they are closing out their remaining inventory of this particular 'kit' from Meyle, so jump on it if you need them for your early model year Q7 through the 2010 facelift model.

Audi Control Arm Set
MEY-1160500190S
Price
$539.86
anyone who has these older ones should jump on this, I had set like this put on my A6 and it transformed the car, drove like a brand new car after.
Last edited by G-Can; Jun 5, 2025 at 06:08 AM.
So, they 'redesigned' these overbuilt/sturdy suspension components, which were already cast aluminum (expensive) and the rear driveshaft got replaced , steel fuel filter cartridge housing got deleted/replaced by the inline aluminum bodied fuel filter, etc., etc. On the TDIs specifically, the 2013 model year launched the Gen 2 3.0 TDI motor, which was a complete redesigned engine and also 50lbs lighter. All while incorporating a larger variable turbo to make more smiles per gallon.

If it weren't for driving this Q7 on some extremely poor road surfaces over most of the last five years and 40k miles I have zero doubt could have driven it for another 20-50k miles before needing to replace the original factory control arms. As they are cast aluminum control arms, I'll be taking the old parts down to a metal recycler to recoup some of my new parts expense, along with old water pump (aluminum body) and old belt tensioner (aluminum plate/body), as well as all my old T2Y aluminum stretch bolts I've taken off car during services and adding tow receiver, etc. Don't throw away those aluminum bits!!!

) and still no rattles or bangs, unless someone replaced them with oem before What I want to do is go away from 20" 275 45 to something like 18, in 265/60 to get some plushness as the car feels like my lowered A6 honest to god
You can drop in wheel sizing or just use an alternate tire sizing and swap out type of tire on car, which makes a huge difference in how it feels, IMO.
Look in my signature line and it shows what I'm running currently...still a V-rated tire, but a road-biased A/T tire. I just add or subtract bit of pressure to dial it in how I want it to feel...whether more damp or more taught...handles really well. My setup is very good with the stock 20" rims, with my only issue being the worn ball joints banging over road gaps/cracks/expansion joints, and the shot bushings aren't doing so well to control movement of the control arms, etc.
That's really what this thread is all about for me; getting my car back to 100% solid again so the new tires and OG shocks can do their thing. The tires I'm running are really strong performers all around, and while snow may not be in your forecast, these tires got me through 20" of the powdery stuff last Winter that otherwise paralyzed our town. I do like to play off-road too and no disappointment there either. My Quattro Audi has proper 'shoes' now for the real world. Bring on the zombie apocalypse!










