High-mileage thorough service
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AudiWorld Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2025
Posts: 42
Likes: 7
From: New Hampshire, USA
High-mileage thorough service
Hi everybody, it's been a while!
My 2015 Q7 3.0tfsi just hit 160,000 miles, and I think it's time to go through and perform any required maintenance, since it's getting up there.
I know the timing chain was replaced already, but other than that, I'm not too sure on detailed service history of the vehicle. I'd like to go through and meticulously check basically everything. This particular vehicle has the Aisin 8-speed.
What do you suggest I do other than my 5k interval oil change? TIA!
My 2015 Q7 3.0tfsi just hit 160,000 miles, and I think it's time to go through and perform any required maintenance, since it's getting up there.
I know the timing chain was replaced already, but other than that, I'm not too sure on detailed service history of the vehicle. I'd like to go through and meticulously check basically everything. This particular vehicle has the Aisin 8-speed.
What do you suggest I do other than my 5k interval oil change? TIA!
AudiWorld Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2019
Posts: 1,272
Likes: 261
From: Canada, Toronto
if it aint broken, save your money for when it does.
You could take it in for a thorough inspection, and then decide. Eventually you could replace all the fluids, that never hurts to do.
You could take it in for a thorough inspection, and then decide. Eventually you could replace all the fluids, that never hurts to do.
AudiWorld Super User
Joined: Jan 2021
Posts: 4,565
Likes: 1,456
From: USA - NM
If you gonna 'check everything' meticulously, then do just that, if you feel qualified to do so. If not, and since you don't know prior history, pay a mechanic to do a PPI inspection, and give you a written report on it; they will go through, over & under and check everything electronically and mechanically, etc.
Audi tells owners in the service schedule that the entire driveline is 'maintenance free' because they filled it with "lifetime lubricants" and the systems are sealed/non-serviceable. Never-mind that's all marketing hype garbage they made up, but some owners have driven up to 200k miles and not serviced those items. However, the parts manufacturers, like Aisin, tell you that you MUST change the transmission fluid & filter on a schedule to keep it working properly and they provide you the service schedule and what type of fluid to use, etc.
A good place to begin is with the Audi recommended service intervals, which should say change oil/filter and maybe cabin filter and/or engine air filter, or fuel filter, depending on what is 'due' at that mileage point for your engine. Typically, it also say to check or verify the condition of most other stuff on the engine too, as preventative checks. When Audi tells you a mechanical system is sealed and/or requires no lubrication maintenance, then alarm bells should be going off in your head...this applies to hydraulic/power steering fluid too.
On my Q7, I do an annual check over the entire car paying attention for all the known issues on this platform that I haven't already addressed/repaired.
Beyond that I bundle basic maintenance services together at shortened, 'severe service' intervals, which ensures my car is in the best possible shape functionally.
Basically I check everything annually and replace the common/normal wear items like wipers and air/cabin/fuel filters annually. It costs me same or less as following the standard service intervals because I know what I'm buying in advance and can shop the parts sales for everything I need to get best pricing.
So far as what to pay specific attention to, there are excellent videos and articles outlining known problems with that engine, and the cars known issues with water leaks, parasitic electrical drains, etc. Different Car Review (DCR) has excellent content posted on their website and on youtube on what goes wrong and parts life expectations for the 4L Q7. This has been my guide on our Q7s. He also posted content on his experience and recommendations for changing driveline fluids on high mileage Q7s, and suggests what he thinks is the cutoff point for safely doing those lubricant change maintenance services.
Mechanically I'd be looking hard at the suspension for leaking shocks, torn and/or heavily cracked control arm bushings, and/or ball joints play, the driveshaft support bearing (rear) condition, and also checking motor mounts for leakage (purplish fluid-filled motor mounts), and just generally poking prodding looking for anything loose, corroded, damaged, missing beneath the car. I always try to keep corrosion inhibitor spray paint on hand. The grounding cables from engine to frame often develop corrosion and high resistance inside the cable, so look for signs of heat damage to outer sheathing over it.
If your plan is to keep the car long-term, be super thorough and take your time using a checklist so you don't forget to inspect or replace something, or perform a reset as inane as tire pressure check and reset the TPMS, etc.
Annual service is also a great time to clean/lubricate your sunroof seals and door seals on the car, which keeps the squeaks away and extends their life and sealing capability. as well as sound-deadening qualities. Headlight lens inspection is a must-do too.
Pro-tip:
HID bulbs slowly lose their brightness/lumens output with normal use making it difficult to notice their change in light output. Changing HID bulbs out proactively on a set schedule every few years, depending on how much you use the headlights, can really make a difference in safety at night. High performance HID bulbs like the Osram Night Breaker 'laser' and others, output a lot more lumens and will also degrade faster than the OE bulbs, which make less lumens, but have a longer usable life, etc. If you wait until your HID bulbs flicker or burn out/car fault message in dash being your signal for replacement, then you drove a fairly long time with poor lighting performance simply due to the normal degradation of the bulbs lighting output.
LED aftermarket bulbs, such as for the fog light enclosures also get weaker over time/use hours, etc., especially the higher lumens output versions.
Audi tells owners in the service schedule that the entire driveline is 'maintenance free' because they filled it with "lifetime lubricants" and the systems are sealed/non-serviceable. Never-mind that's all marketing hype garbage they made up, but some owners have driven up to 200k miles and not serviced those items. However, the parts manufacturers, like Aisin, tell you that you MUST change the transmission fluid & filter on a schedule to keep it working properly and they provide you the service schedule and what type of fluid to use, etc.
A good place to begin is with the Audi recommended service intervals, which should say change oil/filter and maybe cabin filter and/or engine air filter, or fuel filter, depending on what is 'due' at that mileage point for your engine. Typically, it also say to check or verify the condition of most other stuff on the engine too, as preventative checks. When Audi tells you a mechanical system is sealed and/or requires no lubrication maintenance, then alarm bells should be going off in your head...this applies to hydraulic/power steering fluid too.
On my Q7, I do an annual check over the entire car paying attention for all the known issues on this platform that I haven't already addressed/repaired.
Beyond that I bundle basic maintenance services together at shortened, 'severe service' intervals, which ensures my car is in the best possible shape functionally.
Basically I check everything annually and replace the common/normal wear items like wipers and air/cabin/fuel filters annually. It costs me same or less as following the standard service intervals because I know what I'm buying in advance and can shop the parts sales for everything I need to get best pricing.
So far as what to pay specific attention to, there are excellent videos and articles outlining known problems with that engine, and the cars known issues with water leaks, parasitic electrical drains, etc. Different Car Review (DCR) has excellent content posted on their website and on youtube on what goes wrong and parts life expectations for the 4L Q7. This has been my guide on our Q7s. He also posted content on his experience and recommendations for changing driveline fluids on high mileage Q7s, and suggests what he thinks is the cutoff point for safely doing those lubricant change maintenance services.
Mechanically I'd be looking hard at the suspension for leaking shocks, torn and/or heavily cracked control arm bushings, and/or ball joints play, the driveshaft support bearing (rear) condition, and also checking motor mounts for leakage (purplish fluid-filled motor mounts), and just generally poking prodding looking for anything loose, corroded, damaged, missing beneath the car. I always try to keep corrosion inhibitor spray paint on hand. The grounding cables from engine to frame often develop corrosion and high resistance inside the cable, so look for signs of heat damage to outer sheathing over it.
If your plan is to keep the car long-term, be super thorough and take your time using a checklist so you don't forget to inspect or replace something, or perform a reset as inane as tire pressure check and reset the TPMS, etc.
Annual service is also a great time to clean/lubricate your sunroof seals and door seals on the car, which keeps the squeaks away and extends their life and sealing capability. as well as sound-deadening qualities. Headlight lens inspection is a must-do too.
Pro-tip:
HID bulbs slowly lose their brightness/lumens output with normal use making it difficult to notice their change in light output. Changing HID bulbs out proactively on a set schedule every few years, depending on how much you use the headlights, can really make a difference in safety at night. High performance HID bulbs like the Osram Night Breaker 'laser' and others, output a lot more lumens and will also degrade faster than the OE bulbs, which make less lumens, but have a longer usable life, etc. If you wait until your HID bulbs flicker or burn out/car fault message in dash being your signal for replacement, then you drove a fairly long time with poor lighting performance simply due to the normal degradation of the bulbs lighting output.
LED aftermarket bulbs, such as for the fog light enclosures also get weaker over time/use hours, etc., especially the higher lumens output versions.
AudiWorld Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 1,017
Likes: 180
From: South East USA
If you gonna 'check everything' meticulously, then do just that, if you feel qualified to do so. If not, and since you don't know prior history, pay a mechanic to do a PPI inspection, and give you a written report on it; they will go through, over & under and check everything electronically and mechanically, etc.
Audi tells owners in the service schedule that the entire driveline is 'maintenance free' because they filled it with "lifetime lubricants" and the systems are sealed/non-serviceable. Never-mind that's all marketing hype garbage they made up, but some owners have driven up to 200k miles and not serviced those items. However, the parts manufacturers, like Aisin, tell you that you MUST change the transmission fluid & filter on a schedule to keep it working properly and they provide you the service schedule and what type of fluid to use, etc.
A good place to begin is with the Audi recommended service intervals, which should say change oil/filter and maybe cabin filter and/or engine air filter, or fuel filter, depending on what is 'due' at that mileage point for your engine. Typically, it also say to check or verify the condition of most other stuff on the engine too, as preventative checks. When Audi tells you a mechanical system is sealed and/or requires no lubrication maintenance, then alarm bells should be going off in your head...this applies to hydraulic/power steering fluid too.
On my Q7, I do an annual check over the entire car paying attention for all the known issues on this platform that I haven't already addressed/repaired.
Beyond that I bundle basic maintenance services together at shortened, 'severe service' intervals, which ensures my car is in the best possible shape functionally.
Basically I check everything annually and replace the common/normal wear items like wipers and air/cabin/fuel filters annually. It costs me same or less as following the standard service intervals because I know what I'm buying in advance and can shop the parts sales for everything I need to get best pricing.
So far as what to pay specific attention to, there are excellent videos and articles outlining known problems with that engine, and the cars known issues with water leaks, parasitic electrical drains, etc. Different Car Review (DCR) has excellent content posted on their website and on youtube on what goes wrong and parts life expectations for the 4L Q7. This has been my guide on our Q7s. He also posted content on his experience and recommendations for changing driveline fluids on high mileage Q7s, and suggests what he thinks is the cutoff point for safely doing those lubricant change maintenance services.
Mechanically I'd be looking hard at the suspension for leaking shocks, torn and/or heavily cracked control arm bushings, and/or ball joints play, the driveshaft support bearing (rear) condition, and also checking motor mounts for leakage (purplish fluid-filled motor mounts), and just generally poking prodding looking for anything loose, corroded, damaged, missing beneath the car. I always try to keep corrosion inhibitor spray paint on hand. The grounding cables from engine to frame often develop corrosion and high resistance inside the cable, so look for signs of heat damage to outer sheathing over it.
If your plan is to keep the car long-term, be super thorough and take your time using a checklist so you don't forget to inspect or replace something, or perform a reset as inane as tire pressure check and reset the TPMS, etc.
Annual service is also a great time to clean/lubricate your sunroof seals and door seals on the car, which keeps the squeaks away and extends their life and sealing capability. as well as sound-deadening qualities. Headlight lens inspection is a must-do too.
Pro-tip:
HID bulbs slowly lose their brightness/lumens output with normal use making it difficult to notice their change in light output. Changing HID bulbs out proactively on a set schedule every few years, depending on how much you use the headlights, can really make a difference in safety at night. High performance HID bulbs like the Osram Night Breaker 'laser' and others, output a lot more lumens and will also degrade faster than the OE bulbs, which make less lumens, but have a longer usable life, etc. If you wait until your HID bulbs flicker or burn out/car fault message in dash being your signal for replacement, then you drove a fairly long time with poor lighting performance simply due to the normal degradation of the bulbs lighting output.
LED aftermarket bulbs, such as for the fog light enclosures also get weaker over time/use hours, etc., especially the higher lumens output versions.
Audi tells owners in the service schedule that the entire driveline is 'maintenance free' because they filled it with "lifetime lubricants" and the systems are sealed/non-serviceable. Never-mind that's all marketing hype garbage they made up, but some owners have driven up to 200k miles and not serviced those items. However, the parts manufacturers, like Aisin, tell you that you MUST change the transmission fluid & filter on a schedule to keep it working properly and they provide you the service schedule and what type of fluid to use, etc.
A good place to begin is with the Audi recommended service intervals, which should say change oil/filter and maybe cabin filter and/or engine air filter, or fuel filter, depending on what is 'due' at that mileage point for your engine. Typically, it also say to check or verify the condition of most other stuff on the engine too, as preventative checks. When Audi tells you a mechanical system is sealed and/or requires no lubrication maintenance, then alarm bells should be going off in your head...this applies to hydraulic/power steering fluid too.
On my Q7, I do an annual check over the entire car paying attention for all the known issues on this platform that I haven't already addressed/repaired.
Beyond that I bundle basic maintenance services together at shortened, 'severe service' intervals, which ensures my car is in the best possible shape functionally.
Basically I check everything annually and replace the common/normal wear items like wipers and air/cabin/fuel filters annually. It costs me same or less as following the standard service intervals because I know what I'm buying in advance and can shop the parts sales for everything I need to get best pricing.
So far as what to pay specific attention to, there are excellent videos and articles outlining known problems with that engine, and the cars known issues with water leaks, parasitic electrical drains, etc. Different Car Review (DCR) has excellent content posted on their website and on youtube on what goes wrong and parts life expectations for the 4L Q7. This has been my guide on our Q7s. He also posted content on his experience and recommendations for changing driveline fluids on high mileage Q7s, and suggests what he thinks is the cutoff point for safely doing those lubricant change maintenance services.
Mechanically I'd be looking hard at the suspension for leaking shocks, torn and/or heavily cracked control arm bushings, and/or ball joints play, the driveshaft support bearing (rear) condition, and also checking motor mounts for leakage (purplish fluid-filled motor mounts), and just generally poking prodding looking for anything loose, corroded, damaged, missing beneath the car. I always try to keep corrosion inhibitor spray paint on hand. The grounding cables from engine to frame often develop corrosion and high resistance inside the cable, so look for signs of heat damage to outer sheathing over it.
If your plan is to keep the car long-term, be super thorough and take your time using a checklist so you don't forget to inspect or replace something, or perform a reset as inane as tire pressure check and reset the TPMS, etc.
Annual service is also a great time to clean/lubricate your sunroof seals and door seals on the car, which keeps the squeaks away and extends their life and sealing capability. as well as sound-deadening qualities. Headlight lens inspection is a must-do too.
Pro-tip:
HID bulbs slowly lose their brightness/lumens output with normal use making it difficult to notice their change in light output. Changing HID bulbs out proactively on a set schedule every few years, depending on how much you use the headlights, can really make a difference in safety at night. High performance HID bulbs like the Osram Night Breaker 'laser' and others, output a lot more lumens and will also degrade faster than the OE bulbs, which make less lumens, but have a longer usable life, etc. If you wait until your HID bulbs flicker or burn out/car fault message in dash being your signal for replacement, then you drove a fairly long time with poor lighting performance simply due to the normal degradation of the bulbs lighting output.
LED aftermarket bulbs, such as for the fog light enclosures also get weaker over time/use hours, etc., especially the higher lumens output versions.
Now I know! Use your intution, shorter service intervals, as you spoke.100%
AudiWorld Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2019
Posts: 1,272
Likes: 261
From: Canada, Toronto
Alarms went off in my head when Audi sales and techs told me the turbo burns oil (as it gets directly injected into the supercharger). Ummmm..... Then I want all my money back for knowingly selling me a junk vehicle!
Now I know! Use your intution, shorter service intervals, as you spoke.100%
Now I know! Use your intution, shorter service intervals, as you spoke.100%
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