so i took everyones advice after soaking the maf sensor and i just popped it back in, so it sat out to dry for about 24 hours. I had to use my car though about 45 min ago, so i popped everything back in, i shook the maf sensor back and forth and no water or anything came out. I made sure everything was secure and everything was nice and tight. Started it up, no cel light. I let it idle for 5min while i was putting stuff in the garage. Shut it off, so far so good. I came inside for a min to grab some things and came back out about 20 min later, started it up again and bang cel light. Here is my vag info, I got more codes than i was expecting.

Chassis Type: 8D - Audi A4 B5
Scan: 01,02,03,08,15,17,25,35,45,55,56

Address 01 -------------------------------------------------------
Controller: 4B0 906 018 CH
Component: 1.8L R4/5VT G 0001
Coding: 16251
Shop #: WSC 06435
1 Fault Found:
16486 - Mass Air Flow Sensor (G70): Signal too Low
P0102 - 35-00 - -
Readiness: 0000 0000

Address 02 -------------------------------------------------------
Controller: 8D0 927 156 DF
Component: AG5 01V 1.8l5VT USA 1010
Coding: 00002
Shop #: WSC 06435
1 Fault Found:
18265 - Load Signal: Error Message from ECU
P1857 - 35-00 - -

Address 08 -------------------------------------------------------
Controller: 

 


Note: Excessive Comm Errors

Skipping Address 15-Airbags

Address 17 -------------------------------------------------------
Controller: 8D0 920 980 Q
Component: B5-KOMBIINSTR. VDO D12
Coding: 00244
Shop #: WSC 01110
No fault code found.

Address 35 -------------------------------------------------------
Controller: 8L0 862 257 N
Component: CV-Pump, Alarm, RC D16
Coding: 15180
Shop #: WSC 06435
8 Faults Found:
01367 - Central Locking Pump Run Time Exceeded (Likely Leak)
35-00 - -
01371 - Alarm triggered by Door Contact Switch: Driver's Side
35-00 - -
01374 - Alarm triggered by Terminal 15
35-00 - -
01370 - Alarm triggered by Interior Monitoring
35-00 - -
01369 - Alarm triggered by Hood Switch
35-00 - -
01366 - Opened Due to Crash Signal
35-00 - -
00955 - Key 1
09-00 - Adaptation Limit Surpassed
00958 - Key 4
09-00 - Adaptation Limit Surpassed
End -------------------------------------------------------


I appreciate your help guys.

 

very good chance the MAF element is dying. A million attempts at cleaning it still won't fix decaying electrical components.

If you keep getting that code then replace the MAF element.

What other problems are you having?

 

And also what do you suggest I do about the maf? Reset the code and see if it keeps coming back for a few weeks, If it keeps coming back then I should just replace it? Can a diff year maf sensor go in a diff year car? or only 01 can go in 01?

Thanks

 

accident.

some MYs can swap MAFs. I am using a MAF from 98.5~99.5 on my 97, and it works great. They are also all the same engine code, and are plug and play with ECUs.

I can dig you up a PN and approx price for an 01 MAF, if you give me a sec.

 

i drove the car around the block for about 2-3 miles and no cel light. Could something just have gotten moved around or something and caused the cel? Because it is not coming back on. For the maf once its reset should it come right back on or can it take a while? I know sometimes cel lights take a while.

Lastly that code I got, does it mean the maf is done or on its way out? Is there a diff code for a dead maf, and a maf on its way out?

Thanks again shep

 

for AWM engine code

Add an X to the end of that part, and it falls substancially in price, because its remannufactured.

It looks like L one might work as well for your car as well. Though I am not 100% certain on that.

06A 906 461 L

Pure MS sells and L for your car @ $135, and it's brand new not re manned.

Either way you're looking at around 100~150 ish depending. I scouted a few places already and that seems to be the price.

 

shorts and low sensor readings, but not a dead sensor reading. There might be a sensor unplugged code though.

In my experience electrical stuff just dies very slowly..

The real way to test if that MAF is reading correctly is a 2nd or ideally 3rd gear pull to redline. If those readings are substancially low (assuming your not at higher altitude ) then it's probably bad.

Also can you log the values when the car is idling. They should be between like 2.5 and 3 when the car is warm, and fairly steady, if they are dancing around a lot it could also be an idication of a MAF on its way out.

the 3rd thing to check is fuel trim values.. If your trims are off, that could be an indication of a bad MAF (also realize that bad fuel trims could be the result of a LOT of things as well)

 

I don't know if driving around the block really gives the car anytime to adapt. Also how much load were you placing on the engine. If it's dying you're going to notice it more under load situations then just regular cruising.

 

sometime tomorrow


thanks again shep

 

that took over 60 days.