tire wear bar question...
Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 804
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For the street,
The lower you get to the bars, the less aquaplanning resistance you get. As the tire ages too, the compound hardens (unless you have the dual compound Bridgestones) meaning less traction in the dry and especially in the wet. Snow/sleet and gravel also start to pose a greater hazard. Depending on you, you can change the tires now, or wait till the hit the wear bars (Don't worry about the penny test, that is what the wear bars are for..BTW the penny goes head in first)...You can smoke a 85% of cigarette and throw it away or you could smoke 95% of it....the compromise is safety(health) over cost.
Exception is for the track, it means there is less tire squirm (it's a keeper) and less overheating tires.
Exception is for the track, it means there is less tire squirm (it's a keeper) and less overheating tires.
AudiWorld Member
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 595
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Forget pennies and wear bars!
Buy a tire tread depth gauge (inexpensive item at auto parts stores). Keep track of wear across the tread on all four tires. That will help diagnose alignment, pressure, and other problems.
Bars usually at 2/32", the legal definition of worn out, WAY too bare IMO, esp. in wet or ice/snow. I replace mine at around 6/32. Some will say 4/32. Depends on tradeoff you like between safety and cost. At least if you measure the tread regularly, you'll know and can make a conscious decision.
Bars usually at 2/32", the legal definition of worn out, WAY too bare IMO, esp. in wet or ice/snow. I replace mine at around 6/32. Some will say 4/32. Depends on tradeoff you like between safety and cost. At least if you measure the tread regularly, you'll know and can make a conscious decision.
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