MrJingle

So story is basically this....over a year ago my car had some intermittent starting issues, wouldnt start for 10 minutes, then would, eventually took it into a shop, never had the issue while there so they said it was fine. It did this for a month or two, even cut out while driving once or twice, then was fine. Eventually the battery died from so much starting, replaced it and still wouldnt start, I checked coils, replaced plugs, and someone worked perfect for almost a year. The other day it started up again, some not starting, cut off while driving again.

Yesterday i checked the plugs and coils again, reset the ecu, did the TBA adjust (by turning key, gas down 3 secs, turn off wait 2 mins, although never know if this works). The car started finally, but is running very rough, semi strange idle, little shakier than normal. Drove it home, about 2 miles, and it was very under powered, never felt this before, felt like 2nd gear was 3rd or 4th, no power, is this limp mode?

Basically I have horror stories with mechanics on audis in my area, dont trust them for my life. This prob has been around for a year+ now, on and off, fuel pump? TBA? short in a wire somewhere?

The other strange thought is that it originally did this thing off and on last summer (very hot in the south here), was good all winter after i replaced plugs, then riiiight when spring hit again this year it came back? coincidence or heat related maybe.

Thanks for reading, I found nothing quiiite like this issue on other forums, hopefully someone has some clue. thanks again!
-Jingle

David.Norton

Most problems will post a code in the ECU, if it has not then I would suspect the ECU. So the first thing to do is read the code. Mine went bad intermittently where the car would stall and not restart, then would be completely right, without ever posting a code. Unfortunately most mechanics are lost if they can't read a problem code, and don't know what to do next. You can get junkyard ones for not a lot of money up on the bay, mine has been fine for years, and they are really very easy to change.

MrJingle

Update, checked spark on all coils again, no steady blue, just flashes of yellow if that matters. But also noticed the teeth on the cord connecting the coil is all falling apart, plastic breaking, hard to connect. Anyway after doing this, it was out of limp mode, seemed good for a few miles, then cut off while driving, couldn't get it back started. Trying to get it back in a shop tues...But I dint trust them with audis much

MrJingle

So the plastic on 2 of the wires are totally shot, so those are being replaced regardless, with Volkswagen Jetta IV GLI 1.8T - 1J0971658L - Coil Pack Wiring Harness Replacement - ES#2506749 i belive. coil packs should be ok. is this even a possible cause for my symptoms?

MrJingle

update, still works sometimes, doesn't others, more and more stories like mine I read, the crank pos (engine speed) sesnsor seems like the most common fix, especially with heat related failure.

CODES PULLED: (shareware version)
00787 - Temperature Sensor in Fresh Air intake duct (G89)
30-00 - Open or Short to Plus
00603 - Shareware Version. Foot-wall/defroster Flap Motor -V85
41-10 - Please Register/Activate - Intermittent
01272 - Shareware Version. Central Air Flap Motor -V70
41-10 - Please Register/Activate - Intermittent
01274 - Air Flow Flap Positioning Motor (V71)
41-10 - Blocked or No Voltage - Intermittent
01206 - Shareware Version. Signal for Duration of Ignition Off Time
27-10 - Please Register/Activate - Intermittent


So seems like lots of electrical faults at once, has to be a fuse or relay or sensor or false ground I would think. I've been looking all over for false grounds, nothing yet. How would one verify if the fuses or relays are working correctly?

MrJingle

5minute drive later, codes are now...

16795 - Secondary Air Injection System: Incorrect Flow Detected
P0411 - 35-00 - -
17925 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs
P1517 - 35-10 - Please Register/Activate - Intermittent
16684 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs
P0300 - 35-10 - Please Register/Activate - Intermittent
16686 - Cylinder 2: Misfire Detected
P0302 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
18014 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs
P1606 - 35-00 - Please Register/Activate
16688 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs
P0304 - 35-10 - Please Register/Activate - Intermittent

is my car possessed?

MrJingle

final update today, cleared the codes, only thing left was the ABS module, which has been toast for a while, not a big deal (unless the wiring in this is causing my issues somehow), drove it around and let it idle for a while hoping it would cut off or have trouble starting, or course its perfect when I'm trying to re create it. Will post codes of what comes back when it breaks again

MrJingle

Went to check the relays, the ECU power relay is there, not sure if its ok, but either way I have a new one on the way. I've never looked at my relays before, but it doesn't look like any other pics I've seen, there is some huge mission impossible hacking device in there. pics below. Not sure what exactly this is, but it looks aftermarket, nothing I ever installed.

Hopefully by tom I'll have the ecu relay and CPS and get deeper in to install and figure out what this is. thanks

GZ

That is an aftermarket power supply cable, and in line fuse... Probably to run an aftermarket amplifier. If you trace it, it should connect directly to the battery's positive terminal and then run into the trunk area.

MrJingle

I've never messed with my speakers so no idea, but there is no sub in the trunk, but i'll check for an amp. Is there any chance this to an in line fuse could affect my fuses/relays to cause these starting issues?