jseklund

Hi guys, I could use some help from those with experience. I have done a number of timing belt jobs on a 2.7T A6, but I've never done one on the 1.8T. I'm assuming it is MOSTLY the same, but have some questions.

1. Is the cam keyed to the sprocket? It looks like there is a mark on the sprocket that you use for timing. This makes me think the cam is keyed so the sprocket only goes on in one position.

2. The DIY in the tech section suggests disconnecting the A/C lines, etc. - I am assuming just pulling the lock carrier forward and using service position is easier?

3. I am assuming I should replace the cam seals while I have this all apart? If so, back to question 1- just pull the sprocket off like on the 2.7T (pullers) and then put it back after I replace the seal behind it?

4. Beyond the cam seal, I am not sure it makes sense to do the valve cover seals, cam tensioner seals, etc. while I'm in there. It looks like I could get to all that stuff in the future if it started leaking (it is not leaking currently).

Are there any things you can think of that are different than on the 2.7T? Any advice in general? I am helping my buddy with this and appreciate any and all input!

4Driver4

1. Yes. Use the marks.
2. Yes. Disconnecting is massively stupid.
3. Yes/no. Replace, but the sprocket should pull off with your fingers.
4. Yes. Cam tensioner seal.

Sounds like you have a good grip on this. Much easier than the 2.7/2.8.

Prospeeder

yea dont disconnect anything from the lock carrier. Just thread in some long studs and unbolt the carrier and pull it forward. If that isnt enough room and one feels they have to pull the whole carrier off, than they suck lol.

jseklund

Thanks guys! You two are both always very helpful.

So I will tell him to get a valve cover seal and cam tensioner seal kit too.

I wasn't thinking that, since the cams are keyed, they aren't pressed on the same and should slide right off. Even easier.

And yeah...after you've seen these all apart, you can almost reach down in there and do it without removing much. The first time It helped to have the carrier off, but after that you only need 4-5 inches extra if that.

gary808

Sorry for the thread jack, but do I really need a special tool to remove/install the camshaft/crankshaft seals as shown in Bentley?

gary808

Found this on another forum:
1 8t Front Crank Seal Replacement - PassatB5

Wow, it looks like it might be a bit much for me if I need to fabricate something to lock the crank. Maybe an impact might be sufficient?

I have snap on seal removers, SGSR104AR, but I don't think this will help too much to remove the seals. (I use to do a lot of car audio, and it was common to use these snap on seal removers as mini pry bars)

ECS Tuning-Audi

Below is our 1.8T timing belt PDF. This can be used as a guide for vehicles that have an internal water pump. Vehicles with an external water pump (AEB & ATW) really wouldn't apply. But they are all very similar.

Click HERE

Jason

Articus

....




89,000 miles on this particular belt. Is the car even going to make it to a garage for replacement?

quattrob501a4mt

Cross your fingers and drop it off.

mmasire88

Just an FYI on the timing belt cam sprocket. The cam sprocket is keyed yes, but it has timing marks on both sides of the sprocket( No Idea why ). Make sure it goes on the same way it came off, as the timing mark on the other side of the sprocket is not the correct mark and you'll wind up having to redo the timing belt and quite possibly even bend valves.