flc

I'm so effed it's not even funny.

I decided to attempt to change my timing belt/water pump/t-stat/accessory belts..
Got as far as this....






But then while trying to get this off...




2 bolts came off without a problem, but the remaining two were frozen and I ended up stripping both of the bolts...

So far I've tried, using two different types of 6mm hex sockets....Stripped
Tried to hammer a t-40 torx in there.. Stripped
Tried to pound in a 7/32" hex, and while I was able to get about 1/4" in, it still stripped.
Tried to pound in a 7mm hex socket in...Stripped

Any suggestions?... I don't have an air compressor, so air tools are out of the question.

Gosh, I'm getting old, and usually this sort of stuff doesn't happen to me when I was younger.....Maybe I should throw down the white flag and tow it to a mechanic and have them deal with it.....

Sigh....

twentysevenlitres

Go to your local hardware, or auto, or tools shop and grab a set of external nut extractors. That'll grip the outside of the bolt head for extraction. (They look like inside out bolt extractors - conical shaped internal 'socket' with left handed gripping knerls).

flc

Thanks for the suggestion. I've been youtubing and googling different types of extractors... I was wondering why Audi didn't originally put on hex bolts but used these 6mm allen type bolts.. I think I figured out why.... There isn't much clearance between the bolts and the walls of the pulley and the bolts and the center bolt.... It's going to be a really tight squeeze to get a socket to fit over the bolt.

I'll try to get an external nut extractor to see if it fits...

In the worst case scenerio, do people think I can drill is out and then retap it? (Noting that I've never done tapping before)....

twentysevenlitres

Those bolts are about as hard as bolts get (at least the commercial ones are - don't know about the Audi ones).
To drill it you will need a cobalt drill or some sort of drill with a hardened coating. You'll wear out a standard high speed bit without getting far.
If you plan on drilling it, drill it small and try a regular screw extractor first. Get it as central as possible by using a centre punch so if you need to drill it through you can use the tapping size (I'd have to look up the chart, but probably 5.6mm) and just clean the threads out with a pick or tap.

It probably won't get that far though.

Huskerbob

Have you soaked them with Rust Blaster? Spray and tap with a hammer and repeat often. Let soak overnight. Can you get Vise Grips on them?

flc

5 hours later... Still effed...



(note the two hex bolts on top and right are just temporary. I was contemplating switching the bolts to normal hex bolts next time to avoid this in the future...)

0. Soaked bolts with pb blaster overnight..
1. Tried getting a vise grip on to the bottom right bolt before grinding the sides completely... No dice...
2. Tried to fit a bolt extractor (the ones that fit on the outside)...No clearance between the bolt and the center bolt to stick a socket in there....
3. On the left bolt, drilled a 5/32" hole to get a bolt extractor in there....In the war between the bolt and the bolt extractor, the bolt won....





Notice the extractor is pretty much bent and stripped at the tip. Yes, that's a made in usa extractor. Not a made in china or elsewhere bit...

The bolts were pretty easy to drill. Didn't even need a special drill bit.

*Any other suggestions? Or should I wave the white flag and have it towed to have it done or ask someone else to do it.

*I don't have an impact wrench, so that's out of the question.
*Others in this predicament have suggested I weld another bolt on and use the new bolt to turn. I would need to track down a welder or have someone with a welder to do it..


As a refresher, this is what it's suppose to look like with the pulley off, if that makes a difference as to the decision you would take to tackle these bolts...

twentysevenlitres

Drill with a 6mm drill bit until the heads fall off (like a rivet)! - could be a bit of pressure on them though...

Once that's achieved you'll be able to go back to the screw extractor as all the pressure will be gone, or once the pulley is off, you may be able to get to the outside of the thread with vice grips...

tenspeed

You could drill with a left hand bit and try a larger EZ Out.

You could cut the heads off with a Dremel, remove the pulley and Vice Grip the studs.

Huskerbob

twentysevenlitres is spot on.

Drill until the heads fall off and then carefully keep on drilling with one size smaller bit. The remainder of the threads will be relatively easy to pull out and then you can re-tap the holes. Hopefully all you will have to do is clean up the threads with the same size as original tap.

If you have to go over one size to clean the holes up you can use Time-sert or Helicoil for the repair. Time-sert is preferred. Plenty of meat to work with so that would be a fairly easy fix.

jseklund

I know it is tight, but did you actually try the external extractors that were suggested? Or just go with the screw extractor? The external extractors work like magic and they should work there just fine...especially since it looks like you could get hex head screws in there.

Also, try putting the 6 mm socket into the head, as far as you can, and then take a 3 pound sledge hammer and tap it firmly into place. You may be surprised and there may be enough purchase left on the bottom of the head to get it out. Heating it with a torch first may help.
If that doesn't work, try going one size up with a torx bolt also. Hammer it in firmly with the 3lb sledge. I'm not saying to go to town, just get it in their solid.

Oh, and one last thing.

Take out the crank bolt and the entire assembly will come off and you can work on those bolts on a bench. No need to be drilling into it while it is on your block.