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Old 11-11-2007, 02:38 PM   #1
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Default Driver door wiring harness replacement write-up (lots of pics)

A few weeks ago, I noticed my dome light wouldn't go off when I closed the door, also all the switches on the driver door had stopped working. After inspecting the harness where is crosses from the door jamb to the door, I noticed quite a lot of damaged wires. I ordered a replacement harness and replaced it today.
Here is the part to be replaced.

Part number for those interested.

Picture of my original switches that don't work (notice the lack of peeling, my car is a 2002).

Here is a pic of why the non-peeling switches are so special!

So here we go, first remove the cap under the armrest (just pry off).

Remove the 2 screws seen in the hole.

With caution, unclip the door trim.

Remove the 4 screws exposed under the door trim.

Remove the screw at the bottom of the door.

This part here almost gave me a hernia. Unclip the top of the door from the edge of the window, just lift. I thought that the top part would seperate completely, it doesn't. I put a lot of effort into this before realizing that all I needed to do was unclip from the window's edge.

Now you can remove the whole inner door, before you go too far with it, unclip the door handle hook cable (seen in the center of the pic).

There are 2 more connections to unplug, one to the door control module and one to the speaker, then you can completely remove the inner door. Here is a pic of the inside of the door.

Start unplugging the harness (2 connections to the door controle module and one to the speaker).

Remove the plug where the harness enters the door.


For the next part, you'll have to peel the sound insulation from the door. Remove the rectangular plug by the door handle cable.


Unplug the connector to the latch area.

Next, unplug the connector at the door jamb (goddamn I hate those German connectors, they all seem to clip/unclip in their own little special way). In the second pic you can see the damaged wires.


See the little black plastic thingies, make sure you push them to unclip them or you won't be able to remove the old harness.

Unclip the harness from the door.

Remove the speaker to be able to remove the old harness and thread in the new one. There are a few white plastic pins that hold the harness in place that you'll have to cut/pull off.

Before plugging everything back in, I applied dielectric grease to all the connectors.

You can now insert the new harness (start at the door, obviously). Everything is just the reverse of the removal, make sure you insert the black and white plastic thingies in the holes so that the new harness doesn't rattle around.
Before re-installing the inner door, I tried the switches, they don't friggin' work, goddamn. A Vag-Com scan revealed the following DTC.
Address 09: Cent. Elect.
Control Module Part Number: 8E0 907 279 E
Component and/or Version: int. Lastmodul KAN 0305
Software Coding: 00014
Work Shop Code: WSC 63351
1 Fault Found:

01331 - Door Control Module; Driver Side (J386)
49-10 - No Communications - Intermittent

I guess I'll have to replace the door control module.

Oh well, it's not like I replaced the harness for nothing, the damage was pretty easy to see (the new harness didn't cause a speaker connection DTC to appear and the driver door speaker works now).
I'll drive a la Jet Jockey (no inner door) until the new door controle module arrives I guess.
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Old 11-11-2007, 03:15 PM   #2
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Default I saw a similar problem on an older B6, the 2 CAN wires sheared right in the hinge area

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Old 11-11-2007, 03:29 PM   #3
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Default Excellent write-up! How much did the harness run($)?

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Old 11-11-2007, 04:05 PM   #4
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Default the harness cost me around $220.00 CAD (I can verify the exact price tomorrow if you want)...

I wonder how much the door control module will cost me?
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Old 11-11-2007, 04:08 PM   #5
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Default I think the cause of the unusual wire damage in this case, is the result of ...

the extreme cold experienced, cracking the insultation, then the wires fatigued from the unsupported flexing at the locations of the cracked insulation. Are you sure the door control module is getting power via the door harness? If the power hot wire shorted to ground after breaking, maybe the circuit fuse is blown. Check the Power Window fuse #37.
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Old 11-11-2007, 04:12 PM   #6
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Default I thought about that and I agree with you, the cracking was probably caused by the...

extreme cold the car has been exposed to over here. That is a good point about the fuse, would the control module fuse be found in the fusebox by the driver door? One reason I thought it might be a defective control module is the "intermittent" description found in the DTC. I'll check the fusebox nonetheless. Thanks for the advice.
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Old 11-11-2007, 04:24 PM   #7
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Default Check the Power Window fuse, #37.

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Old 11-11-2007, 04:25 PM   #8
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Default thanks, I'll check that tomorrow, I'd rather buy a fuse than a control module!

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Old 11-11-2007, 04:28 PM   #9
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Default For sure! Hopefully thats the cause. If the passanger side window does not operate, ...

confirms the fuse as a quick check, both sides use the same fuse.
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Old 11-11-2007, 06:31 PM   #10
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Default i just checked world impex -- $176

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Old 11-11-2007, 06:31 PM
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2002, 2003, a4, audi, b7, door, drivers, harness, panel, removal, replacement, s8, tool, wire, wiring


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