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Jet Jockey's T.I.P. (turbo inlet pipe) and the reasons behind it...

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Old 09-17-2005, 04:18 AM
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Default Jet Jockey's T.I.P. (turbo inlet pipe) and the reasons behind it...

This project came about because the first day I installed my MTM Stage 3 my <b>OEM rubber inlet hose blew apart.</b> It left me stranded at night with a non functioning car. The actual reason it blew apart will never be known. Was it a defective part? Could it be that the OEM rubber hose is simply not good enough for a modified car? Could it be it was damaged during its reinstallation? Who knows? However the fact remains it did fail and it is also known that these hoses do <b>tend to collapse under high suction from the turbo</b>, thus robbing you of power and throttle response. For these reasons I decided to look into a permanent solution, and the answer was a custom designed and made <b>Stainless Steel Turbo Inlet Pipe</b> or <b>T.I.P.</b> for short.

<img src="http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b79/mlab601/TIPMY2004-Finished-001.jpg" alt="Image hosted by Photobucket.com">

The TIP as been on my car for well over a year now and I have been totally satisfied with it and the performance gains it as given me. I have been asked by a lot of people if I could supply them with one. Last year we tried to get the project going with the shop that did my original TIP but it closed down during the first production round. A while back, I purchased the four not yet completed TIPs and their assembly jig and had them finished by this new shop I discovered about an hour and a half away from me. I can now say that it will be available to who ever wants to buy it from me. Actually those four initial TIPs have now been sold and I have a few people already interested in the next batch. The only bad news is that the cost of doing business with this new shop is going to make me increase the price of the TIP. Add to that, the falling US dollar versus the CDN dollar and the US price is now higher. I also had to raise the price because now the kit comes with a new Samco reducer hose that is very expensive to buy.

Now back to the technical side of things for you <b>Geeks!</b>
It became apparent that Audi had changed some things to the engine sometime in the MY2003 cars. The OEM hose and its connections were changed. Audi decided to move an oil breather valve to the back of the engine (good move) and add a new black metallic tube that now connects to the TIP. My TIP was designed to work with my car a 2004.5 model year. So now I'm going to show you the differences between the MY2002 and early MY2003 cars and the latter MY2003, MY2004 and MY2005 cars. I'm also going to show you how easy my original TIP fits on the latter production cars and how differently it fits on a MY2002 car. It can be made to work albeit more work is needed to make it fit. However, since these are custom made, I decided that if a customer orders it for his car, it should be made to fit, so I will also show you my solution for the early B6 production cars.

First let us compare OEM rubber hoses for the MY2002 and early MY2003 versus the latter MY2003, MY2004 and MY2005. You will notice the hose was beefed up on the newer cars and that an additional outlet was added at the top, the rest of the outlets are the same. A picture is worth a thousand words…

This picture shows you both hoses in their full view.

<img src="http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b79/mlab601/OEMTIPsMY2002VS2004001.jpg" alt="Image hosted by Photobucket.com">

This picture shows you a close up of the bottom part.

<img src="http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b79/mlab601/OEMTIPsMY2002VS2004002.jpg" alt="Image hosted by Photobucket.com">

Now we will look into the changes Audi did in the MY2003 production run. This is where a customer as to know which model TIP to order. It is easy and you can tell just by opening your hood and locating the crankcase oil breather valve. If you have a MY2002 or an early MY2003 car that valve is located adjacent or on the OEM rubber TIP. If you have a latter MY2003 an on car, the valve is located at the rear on the engine, almost dead center.

This picture shows the valve location for the MY2002 and early MY2003 cars.

<img src="http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b79/mlab601/OEMTIPMY2002-early2003-OilBreatherV.jpg" alt="Image hosted by Photobucket.com">

The following two pictures show you where it is located on the latter MY2003, MY204 and MY2005 cars. The first picture is a close up.

<img src="http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b79/mlab601/OEMTIPMY2004-OilBreatherVLV001.jpg" alt="Image hosted by Photobucket.com">

This picture is a wide angled view to show you better its location under the hood.

<img src="http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b79/mlab601/OEMTIPMY2004-OilBretaherVLV002.jpg" alt="Image hosted by Photobucket.com">

Now let's see how my TIP fits on my MY2004 car. As you can see in the following pictures everything lines up, easy fit.

Here you can see the oil breather's black metallic tube and its rubber hose, they both line up directly with my TIP's outlet. You can also see that small black metallic tube and its rubber hose (disconnected from my TIP in this picture), this set up is not on the early production cars.

<img src="http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b79/mlab601/TIPMY2004-Install004B.jpg" alt="Image hosted by Photobucket.com">


This is a close up of the TIP and how it fits in the restricted space. You clearly see that top outlet that connects to the small black tubing, you see how lined up the bigger black tube is to my TIP's outlet. You can also see the new Samco reducer hose (darker blue), that mates the TIP to the turbo.

<img src="http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b79/mlab601/TIPMY2004Install005.jpg" alt="Image hosted by Photobucket.com">

This picture shows that I deleted the plastic elbow from the installation. It was not needed and was just another possible suction leak in the future. You probably noticed it was not on the hose in the previous two pictures.

<img src="http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b79/mlab601/TIPMY2004-Install001b.jpg" alt="Image hosted by Photobucket.com">

Now on to the MY2002 and early MY2003 cars. With my TIP in its present configuration, it is still possible to make it work. However you will need to juggle a bit more with some hoses. My friend decided to keep it on rather then wait for the newer model adapted to for use on his car, my ex-2002.

You can see that the big black metallic tube and its hose <b>do not</b> line up with my TIP's outlet. You can also see that the small black metallic tubing (photoshopped in red here) is not installed on these cars, thus rendering the the top outlet on my TIP useless and not required.

<img src="http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b79/mlab601/TIPMY2002-Install001.jpg" alt="Image hosted by Photobucket.com">

In this picture from a different angle also shows the two pipes not lining up properly. You can also see that the useless top outlet is now caped with a rubber hose.

<img src="http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b79/mlab601/TIPMY2002-Install003.jpg" alt="Image hosted by Photobucket.com">

Now you are going to ask, how did we manage to fit the valve and get the plumbing to work right? Well, here's the answer.

Out of something from <b>Le Cirque du Soleil</b> we pulled off a 180 degree turn with the hoses and the valve is installed right in the middle of it. We used some of the OEM hose with its 90 hard plastic elbow, but we also had to buy some additional ¾ hose to complete the loop. So basically we ended up doing two 90 degrees with the valve in the middle. It works and I'm told Samco as a hose that can make this 180 degree manoeuvre, but who cares? We are going to modify the TIP to fit these cars better. We will see that later.

<img src="http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b79/mlab601/TIPMY2002-Install004.jpg" alt="Image hosted by Photobucket.com">

Here's how it looks once installed on the car, nothing to it. You can see the 90 degree hard plastic elbow (OEM) some of the ¾ hose that comes off the TIP, down to the valve, out the other side and back up to the black metallic tube.

<img src="http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b79/mlab601/TIPMY2002-Install005.jpg" alt="Image hosted by Photobucket.com">

Another angle, the opposite view. BTW, I did not take the pictures so please don't direct the complaints at me. I told the photographer he was fired!

<img src="http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b79/mlab601/TIPMY2002-Install007.jpg" alt="Image hosted by Photobucket.com">

So here is what we think the solution to solving this acrobatic hose twisting is going to be. Instead of the 180 degree wrap around we think the solution is going to make it a lot easier. By moving the outlet on the TIP ~ three (3) inches down, we will be able to get away with only a 90 degree bend. That's a lot more reasonable. Like I said before, since this is a custom made piece, the top unused outlet can be eliminated from this purpose built TIP for the MY2002 and early MY2003.

<img src="http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b79/mlab601/TIPMY2002-Proposedmods001.jpg" alt="Image hosted by Photobucket.com">

One more installation tip. It is recommended that you connect the Diverter or Bypass valve from underneath the car because it is a hard pipe and there is little room to play with, especially from the top looking in where the diverter valve sit. Even if you do this at home it is possible with a good jack to lift the front end on one side high enough to have access from below to connect the valve to the TIP.

Here's looking in from the top at the diverter valve, in this case a Forge unit. It is a lot easier to see it and get at it without the TIP being in the way.

<img src="http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b79/mlab601/ForgeDiverteronMY2002.jpg" alt="Image hosted by Photobucket.com">

Finally, here's what my TIP Kit consist of; aside from the TIP itself, four S/S clamps, one strait hose and one Samco reducer hose (expensive).

<img src="http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b79/mlab601/TIPKit-001.jpg" alt="Image hosted by Photobucket.com">

All together now…

<img src="http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b79/mlab601/TIPKit-002.jpg" alt="Image hosted by Photobucket.com">

That's about it for now. If anyone wants more info on my TIP or on anything about the OEM rubber TIP, I can perhaps supply you with that info. I have other pictures with measurements of the various diameters of the outlets. You know where to contact me, if not e mail me at mlab601@yahoo.com.
Old 09-17-2005, 08:41 AM
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Default A random thought for you ...

Kinetic is making a lot of hose pieces for their various custom kits, any chance that they might have the reducer or be able to make it cheaper than the Samco one for future ?

PS. Cheuqe is hittin the mail today for ya!
Old 09-17-2005, 11:50 AM
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Default a random thought

Just out of curiosity... Consider your TIP is Stainless steel wouldn't it get hotter sitting right there by the engine? Rubber (if insulated) is able to keep a much cooler operating temperature. Therefore wouldn't you be sucking hot air through your TIP ? It looks like amazing work and wish you all the luck in the sales. But i had to ask that one question
Old 09-17-2005, 01:07 PM
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Default That it is made out of stainless steel instead of aluminum is nice..

and you could always have it ceramic coated with a thermal dispersant or just wrap it but it seems to work very well already so to do it may not be necessary at all. cheers! Mike
Old 09-17-2005, 03:14 PM
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Default Thanks. Well I'm shopping for some now. It seems that Samco is pretty much alone in the reducer ...

Game in the size we need. What ever other company comes close to the same product, is just as expensive. I'll keep on it until all avenues are exhausted.
Old 09-17-2005, 03:19 PM
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Default Yeah we had a lot of discussions on that subject and I'm told S/S as better properties than rubber..

Or aluminum.
Old 09-17-2005, 05:55 PM
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Default Please don't take this the wrong way...

Whoever told you that SS has better properties then aluminum is wrong. Samco (or other silicone hoses) have additives that work as insulant to keep the interior as cold as possible. SS has none of this. bhvrdr has it right.. if you ceramic coat these or wrap them they will be alot more use and probably better performance .. my 02$
Old 09-17-2005, 06:28 PM
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Default I agree that silicone might work better to do that...

but aluminum will act as a heat sink which is exactly what you do not want it to do. In order to make it rigid, carbon fiber is one option but this SS one is very nice of the ones available. It is the only one I have seen yet to actually work. I have the Samco and it did nothing from an objective standpoint not to mention fitment was poor for the B6 car. If I was going to drop coin on one, this is the one I would buy right now. I'm sure Jet doesnt want to make some crazy claims on performance, but I have seen all of his dynos and without forcing him to make claims I can say that I was impressed enough to ask him for one of his first ones before I decided to sell the B6. I couldnt get a single other company who makes a TIP to offer any type of dyno claims or evidence and several actually stated their product will not show differences in power, but is just a better product? huh. cheers! mike
Old 09-18-2005, 07:23 AM
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Default Stainless steel is one of the worst metals.......

for conducting heat which by itself makes it ideal for this application. You might ask yourself why then do they make cookware out of it? Well on the good sets copper or aluminum is added as a conductor. On most metal cookware the handles are made out of stainless because of the low heat conductivity. Jet could you send me pricing.I was also wondering what turbos this will fit and if there are any issues with it causing vibrations against hard parts.
Old 09-18-2005, 09:44 AM
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Default Is that the same hose as the Neuspeed / Samco Extreme intake hose?

if it is.....i would say save yourself the headache if it is and just buy the Neuspeed one.


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