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C7 Audi oil change DIY

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Old 07-09-2014, 07:35 PM   #1
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Default C7 Audi oil change DIY

Does anyone have a DIY instructions for oil change besides sucking oil from top? Where is the bottom drain plug? under passenger side or driver side? Do I have to remove the entire big panel under the car? Some of the T40 screws are so difficult to remove. I didn't have time to proceed further. Will try again tomorrow. Any advice would help. Thanks!
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Old 07-10-2014, 05:14 AM   #2
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Does anyone have a DIY instructions for oil change besides sucking oil from top? Where is the bottom drain plug? under passenger side or driver side? Do I have to remove the entire big panel under the car? Some of the T40 screws are so difficult to remove. I didn't have time to proceed further. Will try again tomorrow. Any advice would help. Thanks!
It is my experience that it is actually CHEAPER to have the dealer change the oil and filter than buying the oil and filter myself on the A6. The oil is close to $10/qt with taxes and shipping.
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Old 07-10-2014, 07:26 AM   #3
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The oil is close to $10/qt with taxes and shipping.
I'm curious what oil you're running at $10/QT? I thought Mobil1 0W40 met all the relevant VW/Audi specs and it seems to run $6-7/qt at my local Wally World... less if they have the 5QT jugs.
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Old 07-10-2014, 08:19 AM   #4
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I'm curious what oil you're running at $10/QT? I thought Mobil1 0W40 met all the relevant VW/Audi specs and it seems to run $6-7/qt at my local Wally World... less if they have the 5QT jugs.
Castrol Edge 0-30 $51/6 with 7% taxes, ok, only $9 Wasn't the dealership use the same?
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Old 07-10-2014, 08:22 AM   #5
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Wasn't the dealership use the same?
I honestly don't know - way back when my C5 had the included maintenance, my dealership was using some crazy weight (like 20W50 - seriously) at the far edge of the allowed range, so I brought my own M1 0W40 throughout and they just provided the labor and filters.

My suspicion is that the oil used varies by dealer and by what they can get cheapest, but that's just my distrustful nature speaking
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Old 07-10-2014, 08:34 AM   #6
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My suspicion is that the oil used varies by dealer and by what they can get cheapest, but that's just my distrustful nature speaking
The parts dept manager told me that is what they used. He said AoA won't pay them for the pre-paid maintenance or repair if they use other oils. Hopefully, he is telling the truth
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Old 07-10-2014, 08:51 AM   #7
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The parts dept manager told me that is what they used. He said AoA won't pay them for the pre-paid maintenance or repair if they use other oils. Hopefully, he is telling the truth
Yabbut.... remember this link where the guy gets 2-3 different answers on what oil they used?

Color me skeptical still, sorry.
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Old 07-10-2014, 02:41 PM   #8
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Will try again tomorrow. Any advice would help. Thanks!
Here is a link to a DIY on the 3.0L V6 in a A4. There may be differences but it hits all the basic parts. Read all the way through first. There seems to be different drain plugs and tools to remove them.

http://forums.audiworld.com/showthread.php?p=24026371

Take some pictures of what you found and write a DIY for the C7 folks.
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Old 07-10-2014, 08:09 PM   #9
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Default C7 Audi 3.0 oil change DIY Instructions here

I asked for instructions yesterday foil oil change DIY and got totally hijacked. So I decided to wrote my own today and here are the instructions from me to anyone interested.

Tools required:

1) 36 mm socket for oil filter housing (up top near fire wall)
2) 6 mm hex bit (Allen) for oil drain plug
3) Jack, ramp or other support for car (best to use 2 forms of support as safety backup)
4) 7.1 quarts of oil (I used 0W40 Mobil 1 but see other thread discussions for other oils)
5) element oil filter, comes with gasket
6) T30 Torx (for belly pan screws)
7) 8 mm Spline (12 point thingy for big screws in belly pan- got from NAPA)
8) Phillips Screw driver (for belly pan screws)
9) Oil pan


The oil and filter change took only 10-15 minutes but removing the belly pan took much longer. Most tools are common except for the 8 mm (M8) Spline (12 point thingy) for the 4 big screws in the belly pan, near the 2 tires. I bought from NAPA but I guess you can special order from Sears etc.

After you raise the car, remove the belly pan right under the engine. There are about 10-12 screws of different sizes (see tool list above). Remove the oil drain plug with the 6 mm hex bit. Remove the oil filter housing (up top) with the 36 mm socket wrench. It is best to remove slowly and put into a plastic bag or wrap with paper towel. Use a needle nose plier to remove the gasket inside the filter housing. Your element filter comes with 2 gaskets, use the bigger one to match the old one. Torque filter housing to 25 Nm, no specs on the drain plug, so I used the same. Drain plug has metal washer, which I re-used (check leak ok). Pour oil into engine and monitor level using the MMI. I used 7.1 quarts. There is no oil dipstick on the C7 Audi A6 but I heard you can special order one.

I didnít re-install the belly pan cause I find it a hassle to remove. Also, I like to check under my engine and joints regularly but do as you please. Also, I didnít like the belly pan collecting some pebbles after 10K miles. They must have gotten in from the wheels. I find the belly pan to be an overkill for underneath protection.

Mobil 1 is more than adequate for my daily driving. There are many options out there including Amsoil, Red Line, Castrol, Liqui Moly, Motul etc (hm..I am not a rookie). Finally, I do my oil change every 5K, no matter who says what because thatís the way I like itÖaha..aha. Have fun with your oil change!
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Old 07-10-2014, 08:13 PM   #10
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Sorry for Typos...It should read "for" and "write" in first few lines...
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Old 07-10-2014, 08:24 PM   #11
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Here is a link to a DIY on the 3.0L V6 in a A4. There may be differences but it hits all the basic parts. Read all the way through first. There seems to be different drain plugs and tools to remove them.

http://forums.audiworld.com/showthread.php?p=24026371

Take some pictures of what you found and write a DIY for the C7 folks.
Thank you, TenSpeed. I saw your post after I completed my oil change but it was very easy after i removed that silly belly pan. I did a write-up a few minutes ago and posted above. Thanks again!
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Old 07-11-2014, 07:36 AM   #12
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Your element filter comes with 2 gaskets, use the bigger one to match the old one. Torque filter housing to 25 Nm, no specs on the drain plug, so I used the same.
You were very close with the drain plug torque. I looked it up in the Quick Reference and the specs say 30 Nm. 26 Nm should be fine since the drain plug has only been out one time.

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Thank you, TenSpeed. I saw your post after I completed my oil change but it was very easy after i removed that silly belly pan. I did a write-up a few minutes ago and posted above. Thanks again!
Thanks for the write up. I'm sure others will find it useful for years to come.
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Old 07-11-2014, 09:17 AM   #13
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Thanks again, TenSpeed. 30 Nm it is for the drain plug torque. I will re-torque. Now that the belly pan has been removed, I can reach the drain plug without even raising the car...so easy.
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Old 07-11-2014, 11:37 AM   #14
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Just FYI, the belly pan is there for airflow management more than protection (though I'm sure it serves both purposes). My C5 belly pan is a PITA and the longest part of an oil change, but my advice would be to suck it up and keep the thing on there when you're not wrenching!
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Old 07-11-2014, 12:11 PM   #15
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Yes, Richard Solomon I am fully aware the belly pan is there to reduce drag coefficient (very very little) besides protection. But it is poorly design to have 3 different types of screws and that many screws to fasten that piece of garbage. And to use M8 Spline (12 point screw) is ridiculous and stupid..normal Phllips screw is fine. I will inform the dealer when I throw that belly pan away so Audi engineers can get the message.
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Old 07-11-2014, 01:03 PM   #16
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I have read about others cutting an access hole in the pan for oil changes.

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Old 07-11-2014, 01:09 PM   #17
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This is why the pan is there! Good idea to leave it in place. Great illustration.
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Old 07-11-2014, 01:23 PM   #18
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"Poorly design(ed)", "piece of garbage", "ridiculous and stupid" and letting them know the pan will be thrown away. I'm sure this messaging to Audi engineers will be carefully considered.
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Old 07-11-2014, 01:34 PM   #19
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Hahaaa...you guys crack me up. Yes, nice CFD simulation I know. It makes a diff if you're racing at 200 mph to keep drag down but it has very little effect for daily driving. I also don't like the pan collecting little pebbles and debris. On second thought, I wont 't throw that belly pan away but I will give it to the dealer as a special gift...hahaa. He can keep it for good and send it to the Audi engineers...
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Old 07-11-2014, 01:52 PM   #20
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I am fully aware the belly pan is there to reduce drag coefficient
a) drag is not the only reason for airflow management
b) I'm afraid you may have bought the wrong car because the belly pan is by NO MEANS the least intuitive design point on an Audi
c) it may be difficult to claim "it just fell off" when AoA denies a warranty claim due to lack of belly pan (or whatever long German name it really has) due to aforementioned plethora of diverse fasteners!


@tenspeed - you have ALL the coolest pictures! {Bows down}
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