ericmwolff

Hi All I have a 2002 S6 and it only has 38k on the clock so I have rarely posted anything as it really needs nothing. However I think it is time to do a brake job. Was hoping to get some feed back on what is a upgrade from stock as they seem to warp a bit too much. Thanks in advanced.

Just Me

First, i'm gathering you need rotors sicne you mention warpage? But its unusual to need rotors, maybe 1/2-3 sets of pads so... expand.

Second, "upgrade" with brakes is a word that should be used carefully. Brakes are a trade-off between various attributes, mostly noise, ability to work in cold, ability to work when hot, and wear to the rotors. You give up one or more for another. OEM and OEM replacements (available from several OEM suppliers) are typically the best trade off.

Finally, i have never seen these rotors warp. And i've had mine on the track and measured near 1000 degrees after a cool-down lap. Oh, yes, people claimed they were warped, and they felt warped, but they were NOT. They had pad deposits. SO be careful what problem you try to solve.

Unless you take the car on track, or drive in BIG mountains, i would get good, aftermarket, OEM supplier parts, do a proper dis-assembly and cleaning of the floating calipers, flush the fluid, and call it a day.

If you will track it and reach stupid temperatures, different story.

Grant

SloopJohnB@mac.com

It's quite likely that your rotors are worn below the 1mm per side wear limit specified by Audi, but that doesn't mean they aren't useable for the most part.
You only NEED to do a brake job if any one of your pads is worn to 2mm thickness or below. The brake pad wear light is your indication that you NEED to do a brake job (essentially pad replacement).

Read the stoptech.com article on brake pad deposits..essentially they claim warpage is more or less nonexistent. Take your car out somewhere you can run it up to 60 to 70 mph and warm up the brakes with a moderate slowing to 30mph. Run it back up to 60-70 and use the brakes hard just short of ABS. Do it again a couple times using ABS with both feet to ensure you're engaging the front brakes hard. Keep driving for another 10 miles or so without using the brakes if you can to cool down the rotors/pads and then try your brakes. I'll bet they won't feel 'warped.'

OTOH, if you want to, knock yourself out. I wouldn't go any further than slotted rotors for the upgrade, and Hawk HPS or Akebono ceramic or CoolCarbon pads. Clean the floating caliper pins and relubricate them if not replace the rubber boots/caps, flush the brake system, etc. If you're really **** you can remove the caliper piston dust boots, blow out the pistons and clean them and the caliper cylinder bores, replace the square section seals on the piston or cylinder, and replace the dust boots. Lastly, a car almost 15 years old probably could use replacement of the rubber brake lines to the calipers, both front and rear, but the front ones are the ones that usually crack/show wear.