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Are the holes on chamshafts aligned with the chainlinks?
Reason im asking this is because when i was settimg time on cams I only aligned the bearing cap arrow marks to holes on camshaft and did not counted the chainlinks, and do not want to go back and dissasemble everthing back.
Alex,
Did you previously remove the tensioner & chain from the cam sprockets? If so, then its possible you could mess up the roller count btwn the intake & exhaust cam sprockets. See pic in thread 6 of link below for correct roller count. Note that the intake sprockets have notch in different position relative to the sprocket tooth. If you have the incorrect roller count timing will be off, & you'll get missfire codes. If you had removed the tensioner & cams, did you keep the chain assembled to the cams sprockets when you had them out. If so, then it's less likely that you screwed up the roller count, assuming they were correct in the 1st place. Also, after installing TB, did you rotate the crank manually & double check if both the intake & exhaust cam notches aligned with the bearing cap arrows? If you did this and the notches for both cams always aligned dead center to the arrows, then my bet is roller count is correct. But as George said, you don't know for sure unless you pull VCs and count.
Alex,
Did you previously remove the tensioner & chain from the cam sprockets? If so, then its possible you could mess up the roller count btwn the intake & exhaust cam sprockets. See pic in thread 6 of link below for correct roller count. Note that the intake sprockets have notch in different position relative to the sprocket tooth. If you have the incorrect roller count timing will be off, & you'll get missfire codes. If you had removed the tensioner & cams, did you keep the chain assembled to the cams sprockets when you had them out. If so, then it's less likely that you screwed up the roller count, assuming they were correct in the 1st place. Also, after installing TB, did you rotate the crank manually & double check if both the intake & exhaust cam notches aligned with the bearing cap arrows? If you did this and the notches for both cams always aligned dead center to the arrows, then my bet is roller count is correct. But as George said, you don't know for sure unless you pull VCs and count.
I never pulled the chain or tensioner out, I just loosen the chain a little with the special tool to be able to replace the gasket and half moon seal below the tensioner. I already opened the head cover again and counted the chain links and i counted sixteen, just as the first diagram above, #1 chain link is a little off to the left of the intake notch. I also did turn the crank manually and everything aligned perfectly, the notches with arrows in the cams, and the crankshaft sprockets flat metal holders always were facing each other with the larger hole inwards. Only thing that worried me is that every time everything was aligned when trying to fit the locking bar, I had to wiggle it a little downwards or upwards to fit both flat holders. It didnt went in that easily.
If you didn't remove chain from cam sprockets, you won't have changed the timing between them. Having correct count is good, now you won't have this uncertainty as you figure out the ticking & smoke mentioned in your other posting.
Since cam lock bar didn't align perfectly when you turned engine over manually, it is likely because you didn't pretention the belt correctly, before tightening sprockets. Some minor TB slack between bank 1 & 2 occurred when you turned engine over manually, which is why both sprockets didn't return to the correct timing position.
If you didn't remove chain from cam sprockets, you won't have changed the timing between them. Having correct count is good, now you won't have this uncertainty as you figure out the ticking & smoke mentioned in your other posting.
Since cam lock bar didn't align perfectly when you turned engine over manually, it is likely because you didn't pretention the belt correctly, before tightening sprockets. Some minor TB slack between bank 1 & 2 occurred when you turned engine over manually, which is why both sprockets didn't return to the correct timing position.
probably i might check everything again, im concerned about the ticking noise, hope its not a broken valve, since the camfshats on passengers side moved while doing the cam seals. I've also read other posts that it can be a bad chain tensioner, low oil pressure or stuck lifters?(dont know what they are, might do research), other suggestions are to change oil and filter, which i havent done yet and the one it has now its really burnt. or adding the seafoam engine cleaner...
When I did timing on my 2.7, the bearing cap arrow aligned dead center to the cam notches. Your pic in thread 2 w/ red circle doesn't look like the notch is centered. If your crank pin is installed when you took this pic, then I'd say your timing isn't right on. Unsure if this is intake or exhaust pic, but if chain roller count is correct, then the other cam alignment will be off the same amount as in this pic. Note that when you have the cam lock bar installed, the notches on bank 1 & bank 2 exhaust cams should be dead nuts centered. But if you remove lock bar & turn over engine manually & it ends up with notches misaligned to arrows, then that means you didn't pretension the TB correctly. If TB pretensioned, then TB cam sprockets tighened, this misalignment shouldn't happen after lock bar removed & engine turned manually.
07-02-2016, 12:54 AM
2001 audi a6 timing
