Kevin White

My 96' A6 about a month ago after owning the car for a year and truly loving this car that owes me nothing I walk out to start and it doesn't start. No click no slow crank. Items I have looked at or replaced. The starter, the alternator, has an interstate battery that is a year old and is well charged, key switch is good not cracked, the security system, the shift cable all appear to be in working order, cleaned repaired grounds, repaired corroded splice under passenger floor. Originally I thought I had a bad starter due to the fact that all thoughout having this problem I was able to hook up a set of jumpers in the engine compartment and it starts right up.. Even just now. I go out get in turn the key, no crank, even knowing all this and driving the car two hours yesterday and several cranks starts with success. I have to jump the car boom zings over like nothing, and shows a crappy charge. I just replaced alternator! I'm so sick and tired that I've given up on frustration and turned here, signed up, I'm a retired technician and never seen anything like this. I've been to all ends of the lousy Haynes manual.

When I turn the key the engine will not crank but then Egr blower runs? The blower motor under the air cleaner housing.. If someone could correct my terminology any give me some sort of lead what is going on I would be forever in your debt..

LakeTahoeQuattro

This is probably unrelated, but I remember I was having an issue starting mine once. The battery terminal was not bolted down enough so it was arcing when I was trying to start. There was however enough contact there to turn on the vehicle and instrument cluster, but when I tried to start everything would shut down. Just my .02

tester123

I am no Guru but, let me see if I understand this first.

car won't crank / start but when you connect jumper cables to battery terminals it starts fine... right?

If so, I would suggest trying to get the battery tested/replaced. I know the blower motor runs etc. I had similar experience on a Honda long time ago. It turned out to be the battery - something to do with cranking amps and holding current... I forget... but try that.

Prospeeder

So if it starts with jumpers, your problem is the terminals on the battery. They are not making connection, you putting the jumper on the outside of the terminal is bypassing the actual battery to terminal connection. Remove them, and use a battery terminal cleaner brush to clean them and the battery posts.

Kevin White

Are you guys kidding me? I was jeep Chrysler tech for 8 years and for the last twelve I've moved on to diesel fleet and heavy equipment, I've load tested the battery and the terminals are spotless. I've since built a new harness from the battery starter and alternator and alleviated the egr fan. I also Ran new ammeter and solenoid signal wires. Replaced the gear reduction in the starter and a new nose cone bearing. All I have left it seems is a low voltage signal from the ignition which I can't believe the switch is that much of a piece of garbage. I may just put in a button and avoid further issues being my second ignition switch. Thanks?

LakeTahoeQuattro

No we are not KIDDING you. Just trying to help, but it sounds like you know everything about vehicles, so you may try buying another Chrysler and ditching the audi because it is too complicated for you.

SloopJohnB@mac.com

And as for a year and a half old Interstate battery, perhaps the batteries aren't what they used to be. It's possible the battery has an internal failure. It's possible the new alternator failed quickly…they often fail quickly or last a long time.

Putting in a button switch to the starter doesn't seem like a solution either, if you have to jump the battery to get it to start. It's either the battery or the terminal(s) if you have to jump the battery.

jcman

Have you checked the Load Reduction Relay?
This one has been overlooked by a few and I recall it does connect with the ignition switch. I can't PDF the darn diagram so you might check yours if you have one.

jcman

Here it be

Airbag

"low current wire to starter "


this was the first thing i thought of actually ...

when you go to "start " position on the key does the actuating wire for the starter solenoid give you 12v ..

i had this EXACT issue. on mine i found that i read about 11.75 so thought that was okay so moved on . As it turns out that wire was completely coroded about 12 inches up iside the insulation .. after about 12 inches i had clean wire so i soldered in a new piece with a new connector on the end .. Boom the thing started ...

My old Audi 90 had issues with the ignition switch but that was more just accesories not working.

Good luck