Audi 2.7T shaking when breaking
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Audi 2.7T shaking when breaking
2001 Audi A6 2.7T
I just got new tires, had them balanced and aligned 1,000 miles ago. Car was aligned 1 month ago. I just had the upper control arms replaced 3 months ago. Recently, the car started to make a rubbing sound when I turn to the right, but no sound when I turn to the left. I got new rotors and break pads around a year ago. When I am going at high speeds and break the car starts to shake. The wheel does not shake but the car vibrates. What could be the issue? Is it fixable? Could I do it myself?
I just got new tires, had them balanced and aligned 1,000 miles ago. Car was aligned 1 month ago. I just had the upper control arms replaced 3 months ago. Recently, the car started to make a rubbing sound when I turn to the right, but no sound when I turn to the left. I got new rotors and break pads around a year ago. When I am going at high speeds and break the car starts to shake. The wheel does not shake but the car vibrates. What could be the issue? Is it fixable? Could I do it myself?
#3
#4
highly unlikely. Pad deposits. Rsult feels very similar.
See post above. Its nearly impossible to warp these rotors. nearly impossible nto to leave pad deposits with soft pads.
See post above. Its nearly impossible to warp these rotors. nearly impossible nto to leave pad deposits with soft pads.
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What would you suggest is wrong? What should I do? How do I check? I would really prefer to save myself some money and not take it into a shop for something DIY.
#6
It's a tough situation. Like just me stated, warped rotors manifest as the same as deposits from pads on the rotors. Having warped rotors is extremely rare these days. Some people say that excessive run out is more likely. Regardless, properly bedding the brake pads with the new rotors is the key to avoiding pad deposits. Look up ecs tuning brake pad bedding procedure on Google. Lots of good info. According to my local dealership, you can Scotch bright pad the pad itself to get rid of glazed spots and possibly have the rotors resurfaced to a minimum material loss. It's a tough choice though cease they don't recommend normal rotor resurfacing that takes off a lot of materials.
#7
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If you only swapped out the upper arms, the bottoms aren't far behind. Take a real close look at them with the car on jacks and "curb weighted". Meaning the shock is compressed enough to unseat your jackstand slightly. If you can move/twist the control arms they are toast. That said, who bled the brakes? First time i did them on this car, I did not do it correctly and had all kinds of weird things happening until i bled them the proper way. Just some other thoughts beyond the obvious ones above…..
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#8
N-Jay already gave you the link to stoptech's writeup on pad deposits. You have two choices: clean the deposits as they instruct, or replace the rotors. BVefore doing that you need to go through and step by step make sure the brake calipers are not sticking, the slide rails are floating, etc.
I'm sure its deposits, the question is "why?". Sometimes you never really know,but its generally either heat or inconsistent caliper pressures.
I'm sure its deposits, the question is "why?". Sometimes you never really know,but its generally either heat or inconsistent caliper pressures.
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I live in the Midwest and have yet to find a rotor that our weather can not warp. My B5 4Motion warped 2 years in a row. (haven't had my C5 in the snow) I use OEM style rotors because they are solid rotors. Our track cars we tried slotted and drilled but the Solid stock rotors hold up better on the road courses.
#10
I purchased a 2000 A6 this summer and my audi also shaked while braking. I replaced the brakes and rotors and that fixed my problem. A few years ago I purchased a dodge truck. It too had the same shaking upon braking. The fix was the same....new rotors and brakes- problem gone.