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Latest recomendation on brake pads

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Old 11-19-2013, 12:40 PM   #1
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Default Latest recomendation on brake pads

Hey Guys

I think one of my rear pads rusted and fell off .. so it is time for new pads ( and maybe calipers too if the pins are seized as usual.

As its been about 3 or 4 years since i did pads is Akebono still the pad of choice ?

Low dust would be nice and this is not for high performance driving. Just so my son cam learn how to drive in the beater.. I have been hearing about Hawk pads to so thought i would just ask and see whats new

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Old 11-19-2013, 01:48 PM   #2
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In my experience, Akebono are about the best pad you can get at a local parts store (Advance Auto usually has them) - but the only pads that I have been a huge fan of is EBC Green Stuff pads. Some of it may just be marketing in my brain, but I feel like Green Stuff pads last a long time, stop aggressively and create minimal noise and dust.

Akebono is good though and I have used them a number of times when I didn't feel like hunting down the right pads, or when price is a factor, or whenever and been happy with them.

In other words, I think quality pads are quality pads and I will give a slight nod to Green Stuff, but most pads aren't super impressive.
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Old 11-19-2013, 03:19 PM   #3
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Thanks for the info. I am actually a fan of pbr metal masters, but they don't seem to be a popular choice

Anyway one side has seized pins, the other side no problem. I also noticed two rear broken springs....
Sigh....

Anyway, I can't remember if I have to take the parking brake lever off the back of the caliper to wind it back in. Anyone remember?
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Old 11-19-2013, 07:56 PM   #4
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+1 for EBC brake pads. Red Stuff is not as quiet but the stopping power is excellent.

Akebono has a lot of dust if I remember correctly, especially the rear ones...
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Old 11-19-2013, 08:02 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Metronet View Post

Akebono has a lot of dust if I remember correctly, especially the rear ones...
Akebono makes zero dust. It also doesn't stop as effectively. Tried on my Allroad, will never install again.

Although on the rear it hardly matters. The rear don't need much stopping power but even with OEM dusty pads, there's hardly any dust in the back.
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Old 11-20-2013, 05:27 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Airbag View Post
Thanks for the info. I am actually a fan of pbr metal masters, but they don't seem to be a popular choice

Anyway one side has seized pins, the other side no problem. I also noticed two rear broken springs....
Sigh....

Anyway, I can't remember if I have to take the parking brake lever off the back of the caliper to wind it back in. Anyone remember?
I think PBR made a carbon metallic pad that was super cheap and very effective for my old car. I've actually looked for them on the Audi but never found a suitable part. They were a little dustier, but they were cheap and aggressive and I was impressed. I'm more impressed with stopping power than dust though - I drive 50,000/year some years and life and stopping power are my main concerns....my car is dirty most of the time anyway.

If you like them and can find them, why rely on someone else's opinion? Especially on the rear pads. If they suck on the Audi for some strange reason, it is a $50 gamble or less?

And now that I think about it, I do remember people talking about softer break peddle feel and brake fade on the Akebono's - and I noticed it in my car but nothing horrible.

In my opinion you have junk pads, good pads, and exceptional pads. You know when you are paying for junk, most pads fall in that good category, and there are maybe 2-3 exceptional pads. For me, EBC was that pad on almost any car I've put them on and the carbon metallic pad from PBR was that pad on my Bonneville (but can't find it on the Audi). Maybe there is another exceptional pad out there, but I don't know of it. And I am OK buying a good pad when cost is an issue...as long as I know what I'm buying.
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Old 11-20-2013, 05:31 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Airbag View Post
Thanks for the info. I am actually a fan of pbr metal masters, but they don't seem to be a popular choice

Anyway one side has seized pins, the other side no problem. I also noticed two rear broken springs....
Sigh....

Anyway, I can't remember if I have to take the parking brake lever off the back of the caliper to wind it back in. Anyone remember?
You don't have to take the lever off to wind it back in…you do have to release the parking brake however. If the lever won't go back, you'll have to disassemble the caliper and fix it or replace the caliper.

I used to use PBR metal masters on my saabs and volvos…not any more with Hawk HP. Yes the Hawks are dirty (less so than OEM) compared to PBR metal masters, but they hit right now. The metal masters always seemed greasy at first. BTW…PBR deluxe pads are very clean, last a good while, but fade very quickly and don't provide good stopping torque…one time I dang near rear ended a guy who deeked at a stop light and had to land on the brake pedal with both feet on my 740T volvo…I went home and changed out the PBR deluxe pads (very quiet, very smooth though) for Hawk HP pads….

Haven't tried akebono ceramics…might when my stock of Hawk pads gets used.
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Old 11-20-2013, 05:43 AM   #8
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Oh, I forgot - as for the rear calipers, the pins shouldn't seize regularly. I always lube them with generous amounts of brake grease when I put it back...I make it real sloppy.

The parking brake can stay on, but as Sloop said, has to be disengaged. Just in case you didn't know, you can't just compress the rear calipers into the housing - you need to use a brake caliper tool that spins and compresses at the same time - they kind of screw in. You can rent the tool at Autozone for $35 and get your money back if you return it, or buy it at Harbor Freight for about the same cost.
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Old 11-20-2013, 06:03 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jseklund View Post
Oh, I forgot - as for the rear calipers, the pins shouldn't seize regularly. I always lube them with generous amounts of brake grease when I put it back...I make it real sloppy.

The parking brake can stay on, but as Sloop said, has to be disengaged. Just in case you didn't know, you can't just compress the rear calipers into the housing - you need to use a brake caliper tool that spins and compresses at the same time - they kind of screw in. You can rent the tool at Autozone for $35 and get your money back if you return it, or buy it at Harbor Freight for about the same cost.
That POS HF tool sheared the cheap chinese roll pin they use for assembly…I used a drill bit shank in place of it for a temp fix…had to pull the drill bit shank every 180 degrees and reinsert it because I was too lazy (and the bit was HARD) to dremel the bit to length and epoxy it in.

I now use a pneumatic tool that works very cool…with two cars with screw in rear calipers, it helps. This isn't a bad price either considering today's prices:

Make sure you get a real pneumatic (air-operated) tool rather than Astro Pneumatic which is a trademark…that's a manual tool.
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Old 11-20-2013, 07:07 AM   #10
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I like OEM for day to day use actually.

And stoptech 309s for track use, but still roptor freindly and quiet on the street.
You dont need them.

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Old 11-20-2013, 08:20 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SloopJohnB@mac.com View Post
That POS HF tool sheared the cheap chinese roll pin they use for assembly…I used a drill bit shank in place of it for a temp fix…had to pull the drill bit shank every 180 degrees and reinsert it because I was too lazy (and the bit was HARD) to dremel the bit to length and epoxy it in.

I now use a pneumatic tool that works very cool…with two cars with screw in rear calipers, it helps. This isn't a bad price either considering today's prices:
Air Caliper Wind Back Brake Piston Pad Compressor Tool | eBay

Make sure you get a real pneumatic (air-operated) tool rather than Astro Pneumatic which is a trademark…that's a manual tool.
I also have the HF tool set and the same problem with the roll pin lol

How did you manage to put a drill bit in there? You just match the size and flash cut it to fit?
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Old 11-20-2013, 09:21 AM   #12
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We have a wide range of brake pad options as well as all the right tools for installation available.

I've always liked HAWK HPS pads. Lower dust than OEM and have good initial bite with higher resistance to brake fade.

I'll be happy to offer recommendations or price quotes if needed!

Jason
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Old 11-20-2013, 01:01 PM   #13
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Quote:
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I also have the HF tool set and the same problem with the roll pin lol

How did you manage to put a drill bit in there? You just match the size and flash cut it to fit?
Just match the size…I didn't even cut it to fit….did 180 degrees, pulled it out and put it in the other side.
Oops..that sounds freaky….
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Old 11-21-2013, 02:23 AM   #14
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Thanks guys.
Fond some pbr for the rear so let's see how they work.

One side was no problem and the pins came out of the carrier. The other side was a lot tougher. One pin seized in the carrier. Got it out but need some clean up work. I will run a drill down it and run the pin on my wire wheel

The caliper was a real biotch to wind in. Would spin but not wind in. Didn't have clearance to get the expansion tool in.

I took two bar clamps to hold the caliper in place, then just put the right disc on the piston with the 3/8 drive adapter, put my extention on and pushed like crazy as I turned, after 10 minutes it moved a tiny bit. Finally got the spreader in. And took me another half our of grunting to get the piston in.

I think that caliper is not long for this world but good enough for now.

If you guys know the story of my rust bucket car you know I'm going no where near that parking brake . Or it will be caliper time for sure.

While In there I sprayed down the rear bolts holding the rear strut, the parking brake assembly and the bleed nipple, ran out of light... Enough for one night I think.

Oh and the rear sway bar looks almost rusted right through
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