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Left front outer pad wear odd - aluminum shavings on hub - wheel bearing?

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Old 12-06-2014, 07:19 PM
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Default Good call Kris on the pics!

Originally Posted by ajg617
Wow, I just noticed what you were talking about! These pics were taken at the same time this morning at Tire Warehouse (nail in the LF tire). I'm not sure if it is the angle at which I took the picture or if the rotor moved out a bit when the guy was changing the tire (shouldn't have with the caliper holding it on) but it sure seems like the rotor is not set right on the hub. But this definitely doesn't look right. Wheel coming off again tomorrow! Maybe that would explain the brake pulsation too....I can't believe I would miss that. Factory Audi rotor.
I'd be aggressively knocking on someone's door about this, apparently some parts have become damaged as the result of slapping a wheel on with little thought of safety down the road or the aftermath you have brought before us.
Old 12-06-2014, 07:36 PM
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Originally Posted by jcman
I'd be aggressively knocking on someone's door about this, apparently some parts have become damaged as the result of slapping a wheel on with little thought of safety down the road or the aftermath you have brought before us.
Well, I'm hoping that this is just an optical illusion (pics taken with my phone while bending down and car jacked up to fix flat at the local Tire Warehouse) or that the rotor just shifted a bit with the tire off and the lugs not in place. But the holes seemed to be pretty well lined up in the pics so I don't know.

I did the front brakes, both front axles (one twice due to a defective one). Brakes were assembled with a lug tight to hold the rotor's in place (no screw holes in the hubs). The fitment of the new rotors was fine when I installed them. But, the wheels on this car have been off a half dozen times in the last year because of tire problems. The first set of Contis wouldn't balance. 2nd set balance issues again. Rotated 3 more times due to vibrations which turned out to be 2 bad prop shafts.
Old 12-07-2014, 07:59 AM
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Wear like what you are showing us can ONLY be caused by loose lugs, loose axle bolt, or both. I've never seen anything like that in all of my years.
Old 12-07-2014, 08:27 AM
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The only thing that could be remotely possible is the hub bearing is moving allowing the bolt to dive into the rim center, we all know that the rim and rotor are sandwiched to the hub's flat surface but the bearing is the only point that keeps the hub and axle stationary.....Is it possible that the wrong length axle was put on that side.
Old 12-07-2014, 08:48 AM
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Yes, or it's just not tight enough.. 90 lb/ft + 180 degrees is really tight.
Old 12-07-2014, 10:18 AM
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Default Wrong hub or rotor. Rotor # 8E0698301RKT is OEM

Originally Posted by ajg617
Wow, I just noticed what you were talking about! These pics were taken at the same time this morning at Tire Warehouse (nail in the LF tire). I'm not sure if it is the angle at which I took the picture or if the rotor moved out a bit when the guy was changing the tire (shouldn't have with the caliper holding it on) but it sure seems like the rotor is not set right on the hub. But this definitely doesn't look right. Wheel coming off again tomorrow! Maybe that would explain the brake pulsation too....I can't believe I would miss that. Factory Audi rotor.
That doesn't look like the P/N in the picture...
Plus the rotor is off center from the hub. There should be zero clearance between the rotor hub and the axle hub….the axle hub centers the wheel concentric with the axle centerline. Measure the ID of your wheel hub and compare it with the OD of that axle hub centric ridge.

Last edited by SloopJohnB@mac.com; 12-07-2014 at 10:35 AM.
Old 12-07-2014, 10:46 AM
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Originally Posted by SloopJohnB@mac.com
That doesn't look like the P/N in the picture...
Plus the rotor is off center from the hub. There should be zero clearance between the rotor hub and the axle hub….the axle hub centers the wheel concentric with the axle centerline. Measure the ID of your wheel hub and compare it with the OD of that axle hub centric ridge.
Yeah, pic in thread 20 shows axle bolt is off center from hub.
You might try another check to see where the play is. Reinstall wheel w/o center cover. Jack up that side of car to get tire off the ground. Wedge a bar btwn tire & ground to lift tire. See if you have any radial play. With axial bolt offcenter like pic shows, I'd expect you should get lots of motion.

Last edited by CRuby; 12-08-2014 at 10:16 AM.
Old 12-08-2014, 05:04 PM
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Originally Posted by SloopJohnB@mac.com
That doesn't look like the P/N in the picture...
Plus the rotor is off center from the hub. There should be zero clearance between the rotor hub and the axle hub….the axle hub centers the wheel concentric with the axle centerline. Measure the ID of your wheel hub and compare it with the OD of that axle hub centric ridge.
I thought you had it for a moment. I had my wife's 05 A4 3.0L Cab in for service when I bought the brakes for the C5 as cash and carry - I could have seen parts getting mixed up. But, GAP calls for 8E0-615-301-R for rotors and 4B0-698-151-AF for pads for both my 3.0L Avant and the wife's car. That matches the Audi receipt and what the parts guy told me. But I wish that had been the answer.
Old 12-08-2014, 05:16 PM
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Originally Posted by jcman
The only thing that could be remotely possible is the hub bearing is moving allowing the bolt to dive into the rim center, we all know that the rim and rotor are sandwiched to the hub's flat surface but the bearing is the only point that keeps the hub and axle stationary.....Is it possible that the wrong length axle was put on that side.
I have to say that I was crowing to my son how much easier the LF axle was to install than the RF. Took two of us fighting to get the RF in and out before I finally removed the pinch bolt. LF just about fell out and was also trivial to put in. So now you have me wondering. I bought them from Raxles. I'll try to get it up in the air to see if I can get a PN directly off of the axle.
Old 12-08-2014, 05:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Kris Hansen
Yes, or it's just not tight enough.. 90 lb/ft + 180 degrees is really tight.
Well I got 135 degrees on the LF and 120 degrees on the RF after 190NM or about 140 ft/lbs. Raxles instructions were 90 degrees for the M16 bolt. For what its worth, the Audi tech told me that they typically get 90-120 degrees - rarely 180. There is 0 play in the hub and they are single use stretch bolts so I didn't want to crack it loose without a replacement handy.


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