List of chinese Parts
07-24-2014, 07:06 AM
#21
AudiWorld Senior Member
do non Audi parts still meet Audi specs
lol me too
The chineese are just cheap labour and are very good, but they build to a spec.. Audi gives them a spec and you can bet your *** they will build to it ..
But if your spec is build this as cheaply as humanly possible, they will build to that too ..
I am highly confident for example .. that my door lock actuator and the Audi one are built in the same factory by the same guys .... just the " end of run" ones didnt get the Audi logo
The chineese are just cheap labour and are very good, but they build to a spec.. Audi gives them a spec and you can bet your *** they will build to it ..
But if your spec is build this as cheaply as humanly possible, they will build to that too ..
I am highly confident for example .. that my door lock actuator and the Audi one are built in the same factory by the same guys .... just the " end of run" ones didnt get the Audi logo
This is not meant to be a thread hijack, nor a negative on any supplier (Chinese or other). Just wondering whether when buying parts from someone other than Audi am I getting parts that did not meet Audi specs?
07-24-2014, 07:38 AM
#22
You may or may not be.
To get to current first world quality levels, you generally don't have many "usable" failures, so sorting out the in spec vs. out of spec part is rare.
On the other hand, there may be some more expensive steps and/or testing that is skipped for the non-OEM marked parts.\
Another potential issue is the manufacturer may have been a previous OEM that was dropped due to some issue (cost or quality) and decided to keep making the part for the aftermarket.
P.S. It is not just "cheap Labor" as lots like to cry, it is also Cheap Energy and (relatively) low Red-tape costs.
To get to current first world quality levels, you generally don't have many "usable" failures, so sorting out the in spec vs. out of spec part is rare.
On the other hand, there may be some more expensive steps and/or testing that is skipped for the non-OEM marked parts.\
Another potential issue is the manufacturer may have been a previous OEM that was dropped due to some issue (cost or quality) and decided to keep making the part for the aftermarket.
P.S. It is not just "cheap Labor" as lots like to cry, it is also Cheap Energy and (relatively) low Red-tape costs.
Last edited by N_Jay; 07-24-2014 at 07:42 AM.
07-24-2014, 09:53 AM
#23
AudiWorld Super User
Thread Starter
You may or may not be.
To get to current first world quality levels, you generally don't have many "usable" failures, so sorting out the in spec vs. out of spec part is rare.
On the other hand, there may be some more expensive steps and/or testing that is skipped for the non-OEM marked parts.\
Another potential issue is the manufacturer may have been a previous OEM that was dropped due to some issue (cost or quality) and decided to keep making the part for the aftermarket.
P.S. It is not just "cheap Labor" as lots like to cry, it is also Cheap Energy and (relatively) low Red-tape costs.
To get to current first world quality levels, you generally don't have many "usable" failures, so sorting out the in spec vs. out of spec part is rare.
On the other hand, there may be some more expensive steps and/or testing that is skipped for the non-OEM marked parts.\
Another potential issue is the manufacturer may have been a previous OEM that was dropped due to some issue (cost or quality) and decided to keep making the part for the aftermarket.
P.S. It is not just "cheap Labor" as lots like to cry, it is also Cheap Energy and (relatively) low Red-tape costs.
Thats why sometimes you can get lucky with overclocking , sometimes not ..
07-24-2014, 10:26 AM
#24
i agree with this . with the only noteable exeption of course being microproccesor manufactureres. they are all built to the same spec .. and it is the point that which the testing fails that determines the final stamp of speed.
Thats why sometimes you can get lucky with overclocking , sometimes not ..
Thats why sometimes you can get lucky with overclocking , sometimes not ..
Even in that industry, production quality has bypassed post-production sorting.
07-26-2014, 05:09 AM
#25
AudiWorld Senior Member
OEM vs Aftermarket vs 'China'
I have had hit and miss on part in general.
N75 boost control valve: bought from various sources, tested and compared. Appears that the electro-mechanical and 'air' side (amount of leak) varies greatly. For consistent tuning, had to go back to OEM only.
2.7T and others: oil temp/level sensor. Replace with brand new original MAHLE (Germany, known for high quality parts). Installed. Not working. Checked wiring. Replaced wiring. Ran extra ground. Not working. Bought Hella (OEM brand). Working. Later found more posts saying: nothing but Hella.
Upper control arms: more expansive and cheap aftermarket arms seem to fail at the same high rate (fraction of OEM). But fairly easy to change, so I live with the shorter durability; OEM cost prohibitive.
Turbos: rather have OEM rebuild than ever putting ebay China on. CERTAINLY on 2.7T (engine out!!!). Material, design, tolerances, assembly are total junk on ebay China turbos.
Exhaust manifold: running inexpensive aftermarket log style manifold for years on highly modified 1.8T. Not ONE failure (going back to same source after proven god).
DV: running tons of Forge 007 clones. No issues.
O2 sensors: no name not working for me. To avoid high cost (and actually easier, since I don't have to cut zip ties and try to get the old cable out, then fiddle the new cable down), I buy Bosch without the connector, cut old sensor off and solder the 4 wires on.
Brake rotors: never bought an OEM rotor. Material and tolerances of namebrand aftermarket are up to OEM level.
Ditto brake pads
Drive axles: OEM cost probitive. Aftermarket so cheap, I don't even repair ripped CV boots anymore. Even if they may not last 150k miles...
My general rule: if not critical or easy to change: I go cheap. If critical or hard to change; and/or if 'cheap' already has bad rep (forums), I cut my losses and go OEM .
N75 boost control valve: bought from various sources, tested and compared. Appears that the electro-mechanical and 'air' side (amount of leak) varies greatly. For consistent tuning, had to go back to OEM only.
2.7T and others: oil temp/level sensor. Replace with brand new original MAHLE (Germany, known for high quality parts). Installed. Not working. Checked wiring. Replaced wiring. Ran extra ground. Not working. Bought Hella (OEM brand). Working. Later found more posts saying: nothing but Hella.
Upper control arms: more expansive and cheap aftermarket arms seem to fail at the same high rate (fraction of OEM). But fairly easy to change, so I live with the shorter durability; OEM cost prohibitive.
Turbos: rather have OEM rebuild than ever putting ebay China on. CERTAINLY on 2.7T (engine out!!!). Material, design, tolerances, assembly are total junk on ebay China turbos.
Exhaust manifold: running inexpensive aftermarket log style manifold for years on highly modified 1.8T. Not ONE failure (going back to same source after proven god).
DV: running tons of Forge 007 clones. No issues.
O2 sensors: no name not working for me. To avoid high cost (and actually easier, since I don't have to cut zip ties and try to get the old cable out, then fiddle the new cable down), I buy Bosch without the connector, cut old sensor off and solder the 4 wires on.
Brake rotors: never bought an OEM rotor. Material and tolerances of namebrand aftermarket are up to OEM level.
Ditto brake pads
Drive axles: OEM cost probitive. Aftermarket so cheap, I don't even repair ripped CV boots anymore. Even if they may not last 150k miles...
My general rule: if not critical or easy to change: I go cheap. If critical or hard to change; and/or if 'cheap' already has bad rep (forums), I cut my losses and go OEM .
09-22-2014, 02:07 PM
#26
AudiWorld Member
I just got one of these:
New Uncut Flip Key Remote Keyless Entry Transmitter Fob Clicker for 4D0837231E | eBay
I didn't get the key cut (no one local to do it, other than dealer), just swapped blades.
The original blade is a really tight fit and the roll-pin is much bigger than the original, so I didn't put that in (the fit is so tight I don't think it's coming out anyway)...
New Uncut Flip Key Remote Keyless Entry Transmitter Fob Clicker for 4D0837231E | eBay
I didn't get the key cut (no one local to do it, other than dealer), just swapped blades.
The original blade is a really tight fit and the roll-pin is much bigger than the original, so I didn't put that in (the fit is so tight I don't think it's coming out anyway)...
Did you have a similar issue when using the original key (I didn't get it cut either) where it would not close completely? See fob in the right, this is after two turns of the spring by the way.
09-22-2014, 03:10 PM
#27
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Didn't have that problem... My original key wasn't quite the same as the new one, but it was close enough.
I did end up cutting the new key though, because I wanted a spare, but I cut it myself with our shop's CNC mill.
I did end up cutting the new key though, because I wanted a spare, but I cut it myself with our shop's CNC mill.
09-22-2014, 03:44 PM
#28
AudiWorld Member
I think the new fob is really meant to be used together with the key as a package. Did you not need to have it laser cut? or CNC mill is the same thing?
09-22-2014, 04:20 PM
#29
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Oh ok, I get it. Didn't try that, I just removed the blade and put it in the new holder.
"Laser cut" is a misnomer, no lasers are involved at all... Not even sure why they were ever called that in the first place. lol
The actual key cutting machine is nothing more than a special purpose CNC mill.
"Laser cut" is a misnomer, no lasers are involved at all... Not even sure why they were ever called that in the first place. lol
The actual key cutting machine is nothing more than a special purpose CNC mill.
09-22-2014, 06:51 PM
#30