Problem solved: Door switches
11-09-2015, 07:02 AM
#11
AudiWorld Super User
Fabulous Blaster "The Dry Lube"
I think it's the same company that makes PB Blaster?
It does leave a whitish coating when it dries, however. White lithium grease is maybe less messy.
It does leave a whitish coating when it dries, however. White lithium grease is maybe less messy.
11-09-2015, 10:17 AM
#12
AudiWorld Member
Well i thought I had the door latch issue behind me, since I had replaced the lock mechanism a couple months ago. Yesterday I replaced rear O2 sensors, took car for test drive, got gas, went shopping, etc.
This morning I decided I'll take the Audi to work, & guess what...
The drivers door won't open from either outside or inside.
Bummer. Here I go again on this issue.
Locks & unlocks just fine, just won't open.
This morning I decided I'll take the Audi to work, & guess what...
The drivers door won't open from either outside or inside.
Bummer. Here I go again on this issue.
Locks & unlocks just fine, just won't open.
11-10-2015, 12:03 PM
#14
AudiWorld Member
Well i thought I had the door latch issue behind me, since I had replaced the lock mechanism a couple months ago. Yesterday I replaced rear O2 sensors, took car for test drive, got gas, went shopping, etc.
This morning I decided I'll take the Audi to work, & guess what...
The drivers door won't open from either outside or inside.
Bummer. Here I go again on this issue.
Locks & unlocks just fine, just won't open.
This morning I decided I'll take the Audi to work, & guess what...
The drivers door won't open from either outside or inside.
Bummer. Here I go again on this issue.
Locks & unlocks just fine, just won't open.
Last edited by CRuby; 11-10-2015 at 06:02 PM. Reason: Success
11-11-2015, 07:07 AM
#15
AudiWorld Super User
Try pushing in hard on the door and then using the door handle.
Finally got it open, eventually, using same method as before. Opened back door, used long 1/2" extension, placed end on visible latch bolt, give a solid whack with a hammer. Pulled outside handle & door opened. Yeah! Latch working very smoothly when I use a screwdriver to simulate the striker bar. So I'm thinking the problem is the striker bar is not positioned correctly & possibly putting too much drag on the latch. I'll check my Bentley to see proper way to align it.
If this works, yes your striker needs adjustment. It could be up/down or in/out.
11-11-2015, 01:44 PM
#16
AudiWorld Member
Yeah I had done the push hard try to open, pull hard try to open, numerous times, but that didn't work.
The impact vibration method got me through this. I was giving thought to removing back door & cutting through the strike bar. Glad I didn't go there.
The impact vibration method got me through this. I was giving thought to removing back door & cutting through the strike bar. Glad I didn't go there.
11-15-2015, 04:38 PM
#17
AudiWorld Member
So I think I have my latch sticking problem solved. It appears that the middle leg of the striker bar would rub on the rotating latch hook & provide enough side friction so the latch wouldn't open. Pushing or pulling on the door generally had no effect. Impact to the exposed latch bolt via rear door seemed to be the only way to free it up. So I removed the striker bar & temporarily inserted a washer under each of the 2 bolts, btwn the striker mount plate & the frame. This locates the striker bar slightly forward, providing some side clearance for the latch. So far, so good. Opened every time today. I'll give this temporary fix a week to see if problem resurfaces, & if OK, I'll cut a sheet metal spacer the shape of the striker base plate for my permanent fix. This way the entire base of the striker is supported.
The striker is slightly adjustable up/down, or in/out, but not fore/aft. AND normaly there would be no need to adjust it fore/aft. My washer fix moves it a washers thickness forward. The cause of this must be slight shift of the door over time, possibly caused by the numerous times I had the door panel removed for 1) replacing window regulator clips, 2) speakers, 3,4,5...) door lock module, etc.
I thought about adjusting door hinge, but door does not look like it has sagged or shifted, & gaps/alignment to front fender & rear door all seem good. The striker spacer (if the fix) seems much easier than messing with the door hinge.
The striker is slightly adjustable up/down, or in/out, but not fore/aft. AND normaly there would be no need to adjust it fore/aft. My washer fix moves it a washers thickness forward. The cause of this must be slight shift of the door over time, possibly caused by the numerous times I had the door panel removed for 1) replacing window regulator clips, 2) speakers, 3,4,5...) door lock module, etc.
I thought about adjusting door hinge, but door does not look like it has sagged or shifted, & gaps/alignment to front fender & rear door all seem good. The striker spacer (if the fix) seems much easier than messing with the door hinge.
11-16-2015, 11:37 PM
#18
Audiworld Junior Member
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So I think I have my latch sticking problem solved. It appears that the middle leg of the striker bar would rub on the rotating latch hook & provide enough side friction so the latch wouldn't open. Pushing or pulling on the door generally had no effect. Impact to the exposed latch bolt via rear door seemed to be the only way to free it up. So I removed the striker bar & temporarily inserted a washer under each of the 2 bolts, btwn the striker mount plate & the frame. This locates the striker bar slightly forward, providing some side clearance for the latch. So far, so good. Opened every time today. I'll give this temporary fix a week to see if problem resurfaces, & if OK, I'll cut a sheet metal spacer the shape of the striker base plate for my permanent fix. This way the entire base of the striker is supported.
The striker is slightly adjustable up/down, or in/out, but not fore/aft. AND normaly there would be no need to adjust it fore/aft. My washer fix moves it a washers thickness forward. The cause of this must be slight shift of the door over time, possibly caused by the numerous times I had the door panel removed for 1) replacing window regulator clips, 2) speakers, 3,4,5...) door lock module, etc.
I thought about adjusting door hinge, but door does not look like it has sagged or shifted, & gaps/alignment to front fender & rear door all seem good. The striker spacer (if the fix) seems much easier than messing with the door hinge.
The striker is slightly adjustable up/down, or in/out, but not fore/aft. AND normaly there would be no need to adjust it fore/aft. My washer fix moves it a washers thickness forward. The cause of this must be slight shift of the door over time, possibly caused by the numerous times I had the door panel removed for 1) replacing window regulator clips, 2) speakers, 3,4,5...) door lock module, etc.
I thought about adjusting door hinge, but door does not look like it has sagged or shifted, & gaps/alignment to front fender & rear door all seem good. The striker spacer (if the fix) seems much easier than messing with the door hinge.
