Juschiln19

OK so I'm just trying to program a second key. Took to dealership, was told the immobleizer couldn't be programed for a new key. They want $1050. For the instrument cluster/immobleizer and $200 to put it in. I have this funny feeling they are full of ****... but just in case got a replacement from junkyard tried to find key with the car but no luck. But anyway got a replacement. Now I got vag coms new setup. With cord and downloaded software. It connects no problem. Now I did do research and found the vag com will require a skc pin I believe it called and the program will not allow u to see it. But I found a post on a forum about getting vag k+can commander v1.4 and that u can get the pin with this. So tracked it down on ebay. Bought it for $22. I tried installing the driver it acts like it works but I have to turn off my Norton or it just trys to delete it. But when I do it loads but won't connect to the usb. Won't recognize it it tells me to check two files that didn't Evan come with mine. .. won't work...

Then I found on another post a guy talking about using the new vag com cord with the 1.4 version software says to start new version change the setting. And turn off intelligent mode. To out it in dumb mode he said and open and close the new version twice and download the virtual com port drivers from Ross tech and set up the usb plug as a com port and use the old version to read the cpu and u can get the code out of the reading u get. But the virtual com port will not work for some reason. So it won't work by the way I'm using a windows 7 laptop and the old version (1.4) is for Windows xp and I also have a windows xp laptop but when i try the 1.4 version with the cord it came with it still doesn't read it. But am really trying to get any of them going on the win 7 laptop it's like 6 years newer then the xp laptop. Please help I lm so lost I'm just trying to get my remote start alarm put in and it needs a second key for it to work. I read somewhere u can have a hi tech locksmith but I already shelled out 400 bucks and would really like to get one of these to work to get pin so I can program my own key or do the immobleizer swap and new keys programed.. Help please and thank you...

Juschiln19

I Evan tried finding different virtual com port software with no luck. The only ones I found were for the actual hardware the a com port that plugs into ur usb.. figured that won't work.. now the win 7 laptop is saying it can't find the usb driver for the plug. And the very first time I plugged it in I didn't do this. I've tried manually updating the driver and it says windows can't find a driver and when I try and use the dp driver in the vag k+can commander 1.4 it says no drivers can be found and before it would say the current driver is more current and will not install the dp driver. I don't know is anybody in Colorado and have a setup that can do this or help me set mine up I'd seriously a
Appreciate it!!!

Juschiln19

ANYBODY willing to help

pr0xZen

You're unlikely to get much support for pirated clone-hardware here. And even if they weren't, I don't think there is that much support here for the VAG K+Can commander software. Its a powerful tool if you know how to use it, but its very easy to brick your ECU or cluster if you don't. So make sure you know what you're doing.

If you're stuck with such outdated tools as VC 1.4, the only real tip I can give you to get you started, is to either stick with the XP laptop, or use VirtualBox + guest additions to (install and) run a virtual WinXP image with USB passthrough.

An auto locksmith tech is quite likely going to have the tools and skills to retrieve your SKC. But give them a call first to be sure.

Juschiln19

Thanks buddy my understanding was the vc 1.4 was an original version of vag com. Just one of the first versions. But I don't know. Appreciate the advice. Called a locksmith and came out yesterday couldn't get the key to program. But was able to retrieve the 4 digit pin. He said it's the main pin. But didn't get the date made or the 3 other numbers, manufacturer code,date pin was made and i forget the last one. But i was wondering if i could use the 4 digit pin to retrieve the other information. Or can i adapt a key with this pin since its the 4 digit original pin as opposed to the other 7 digit pin i find associated with the date pin was made and the other 3 codes needed. Sorry im totally new to vag com and everytime i do a google search i find something new. But just trying to find a direct route to just programing a key.
Next question. While the guy was here he placed my flip out original key where the e brake is and while it was there, The car started and ran, didnt shut off. The guy rav'ed it a little and put it in drive it stayed running but the immobleizer light was blinking. My question is the whole reason I'm trying to do this is so I can get a remote start put in. ( not having to sit in the car for 15 min everyday to warm up the oil 2.7t) the best buy guy told me he needs a second key he can hide in the dash and trick the immobleizer to thinking it's in the ignition so it will remote start. So can I have him hide my original key and I use the second one. The one that didn't program but still had the car driving with original key by e brake. This would end my hassles right here but im worried with the immobleizer light blinking it will just lock up at random and i will be stranded. not sure my original key would unlock it at this point to be drivable again. Any and all help/advice is VERY APPRECIATED. .. THANKS AGAIN

Juschiln19

Is vag commander 1.4 and pirated software I'll get money back then I only got it because it a couple forums I read it said u could get the pin and other info needed to program key with vcds... thanks for the heads up

johnkk

As I understand it the SKC is created daily and you use the date when the code was recorded, e.g. the date the locksmith grabbed the code. Also, the 2002 models might still have a 4 digit pin. Ross tech has more info on this, so double check since I'm not sure on the model year split for the 7 digit code.

Juschiln19

Does anyone know if u still need the date pin was made, manufacturers code and the other code like the 7 digit pin or because it's the 4 digit pin vcds does not require it?

SloopJohnB@mac.com

There never has been a valid rationale for letting an automobile engine sit at idle to 'warm up the oil.' Sheesh.

Juschiln19

I've never had a turbocharged car and so I read up on what did I need to do differently in terms of everyday maintenance and I came across a website "turbo maintenance 101" and it says about how important the warm up is and why oil temp is so important. it takes my car in colorado about 10 minutes to see the oil temp Guage Evan start to move, and another 5 if I wait to see 175 degrees. Here what it says and the link for the site is at the bottom of the page. But correct me if I'm wrong I'm just trying to do everything right. Because I have no clue how much the turbos were taking care of. I mean from the sounds of it, u start up and drive right off & if u have turbos that can't be good... I don't know heres what i read :
The first thing that causes rapid wear*and stress to a turbocharger is simply starting the cars engine and driving off.* Today's car is a very sophisticated machine that is very easy to operate, just turn the key, drop it*into gear and you are on your way.* There are hundreds of things that happen in a matter of seconds from the time you start the car,*and one of the most important is the flow of oil coming from the oil pump to the turbocharger.* When your*engine is first started, there is a very slight delay until the oil being pumped from the engine's oil pan*reaches the turbocharger.* In that amount of time, the turbocharger is already spinning*many times faster than the*engine.* We know that*the oil is the only lubricant for the turbo, so it is very important that it is being delivered quickly and efficiently*to keep from damaging the bearings in the turbocharger.* In this critical time, it is best to allow the*car to idle for at least 3-5 minutes before driving off for the first time that day.* Afterwards, if the car is left sitting for less than 3 hours it is OK to*reduce this idle*time down to around a minute.* The reason we want to*do this is very simple, oil temperature.**When the oil*temperature is*cold from the engine not operating*over some time, it is thick and slow to flow through all of the oil passages, lines and filters found in the oiling system.* Slow moving cold oil cannot get into all of the passages and clerances found in a turbocharger, and because the turbo rotates at a very high speed the damage caused by the lack of oil flow happens very quickly.* The ideal temperature for oil to flow and provide proper lubrication is between 180-210* F, and on a cold day it can take an engine up to 20 minutes to reach this oil temperature.* Once you have let your car warm up for a few minutes, it is best to drive your car easy for at least the next 5 minutes, avoiding giving the car more than 1/4 throttle.* This will give the oil time to properly warm up and do its job of lubricating all the vital areas of your turbocharger.


Turbocharger Maintenance 101