Starts and Dies Right Away
#12
Update:
I'm waiting on stuff. I recovered my PIN using a dumb KKL cable and the me7_95040 program, or at least I think it's right. I messed up my VAG-COM cable, and am waiting for a replacement. I'll verify the linked procedure when I complete it.
On the shaking issue, I'm waiting on the 17mm hex and 10mm 12-point bits to come in so I can get at the half shaft. From what I could see/feel, both boots seem to be in-tact with no tears. The shaft itself seems to be straight (used a straight-edge along the length, no gaps), but there is some rust on it. I'm guessing I can't remove the assembly without taking off the control arms, so I have some fun ahead of me.
Also, it looks like the control arms are in good shape and were not damaged from the wreck (the post hit right behind the gas cap). And indoor, I didn't bend the lower control arm TOO much with the jack stand...
I'm waiting on stuff. I recovered my PIN using a dumb KKL cable and the me7_95040 program, or at least I think it's right. I messed up my VAG-COM cable, and am waiting for a replacement. I'll verify the linked procedure when I complete it.
On the shaking issue, I'm waiting on the 17mm hex and 10mm 12-point bits to come in so I can get at the half shaft. From what I could see/feel, both boots seem to be in-tact with no tears. The shaft itself seems to be straight (used a straight-edge along the length, no gaps), but there is some rust on it. I'm guessing I can't remove the assembly without taking off the control arms, so I have some fun ahead of me.
Also, it looks like the control arms are in good shape and were not damaged from the wreck (the post hit right behind the gas cap). And indoor, I didn't bend the lower control arm TOO much with the jack stand...
#13
AudiWorld Super User
#14
Update
After scraping together all the tools I need (stupid giant hex and triple square bits), I managed to get the half shaft off. I'm not really sure how to tell if it's bad or not, so I took the inner CV joint apart and cleaned it up. The outer joint felt fairly free, compared to the inner, so I thought I'd start with that.
I'll let the pictures speak, but it looks like one of the ball races (if that's what you call them) has a pit in it. I'm not sure if this is from wear or a manufacturing defect, but it looks like it may have caused some issues. The matching ball (seen in the other picture) is also a dull color, whereas all the other ***** are still shiny. This tells me the ball is falling into the void and scratching it up/making my ride bumpy? Also, some of the other races are discolored, telling me there is excessive friction and heat build up.
Could this be the cause of my uncontrollable shaking or should I keep looking?
Thanks!
P.S. - I was also able to use the PIN I acquired using the method mentioned above to reprogram my remotes (semi) successfully.
I'll let the pictures speak, but it looks like one of the ball races (if that's what you call them) has a pit in it. I'm not sure if this is from wear or a manufacturing defect, but it looks like it may have caused some issues. The matching ball (seen in the other picture) is also a dull color, whereas all the other ***** are still shiny. This tells me the ball is falling into the void and scratching it up/making my ride bumpy? Also, some of the other races are discolored, telling me there is excessive friction and heat build up.
Could this be the cause of my uncontrollable shaking or should I keep looking?
Thanks!
P.S. - I was also able to use the PIN I acquired using the method mentioned above to reprogram my remotes (semi) successfully.
#17
AudiWorld Super User
What's your problem? Just replace the rzeppa joint.
Either reassemble and relube and reinstall or replace it. It's about $80 so if you have doubts, just replace it.
It does look, however, that the rzeppa joint should be replaced. Brinnelled channels, at lease one gouge. The ball bearings look ok, but the housing is damaged.
It does look, however, that the rzeppa joint should be replaced. Brinnelled channels, at lease one gouge. The ball bearings look ok, but the housing is damaged.
Last edited by SloopJohnB@mac.com; 12-17-2014 at 06:22 PM.
#19
AudiWorld Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Melbourne, Victoria, Australia
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Metal discolouration is pretty standard on CV joints.
They are heat hardened post manufacture.
I'm assuming as you had a spare car, you have spare CV's? Wouldn't hurt to swap it out!
(@airbag) With the size and weight of the half shafts, they would want to have a pretty severe deflection to generate the kind of vibration OP described.
Those triple square bolts holding the inner CV onto the flange can be undone with a standard 6mm hex (Allen) key, just make sure you fully clean out the keyway of any grease and grime so you can get the key fully home, otherwise you risk stripping them out,
The bolts themselves measure 8mm x 48mm, and can successfully be replaced by some 8mm x 50mm cap screws (Allen key bolts) without fitment, fouling or balance issues (If you're concerned with balance, just replace all 6).
They are heat hardened post manufacture.
I'm assuming as you had a spare car, you have spare CV's? Wouldn't hurt to swap it out!
(@airbag) With the size and weight of the half shafts, they would want to have a pretty severe deflection to generate the kind of vibration OP described.
Those triple square bolts holding the inner CV onto the flange can be undone with a standard 6mm hex (Allen) key, just make sure you fully clean out the keyway of any grease and grime so you can get the key fully home, otherwise you risk stripping them out,
The bolts themselves measure 8mm x 48mm, and can successfully be replaced by some 8mm x 50mm cap screws (Allen key bolts) without fitment, fouling or balance issues (If you're concerned with balance, just replace all 6).
#20
AudiWorld Super User
See gouged housing, metal wear. Different from induction hardening.
Metal discolouration is pretty standard on CV joints.
They are heat hardened post manufacture.
I'm assuming as you had a spare car, you have spare CV's? Wouldn't hurt to swap it out!
(@airbag) With the size and weight of the half shafts, they would want to have a pretty severe deflection to generate the kind of vibration OP described.
Those triple square bolts holding the inner CV onto the flange can be undone with a standard 6mm hex (Allen) key, just make sure you fully clean out the keyway of any grease and grime so you can get the key fully home, otherwise you risk stripping them out,
The bolts themselves measure 8mm x 48mm, and can successfully be replaced by some 8mm x 50mm cap screws (Allen key bolts) without fitment, fouling or balance issues (If you're concerned with balance, just replace all 6).
They are heat hardened post manufacture.
I'm assuming as you had a spare car, you have spare CV's? Wouldn't hurt to swap it out!
(@airbag) With the size and weight of the half shafts, they would want to have a pretty severe deflection to generate the kind of vibration OP described.
Those triple square bolts holding the inner CV onto the flange can be undone with a standard 6mm hex (Allen) key, just make sure you fully clean out the keyway of any grease and grime so you can get the key fully home, otherwise you risk stripping them out,
The bolts themselves measure 8mm x 48mm, and can successfully be replaced by some 8mm x 50mm cap screws (Allen key bolts) without fitment, fouling or balance issues (If you're concerned with balance, just replace all 6).
I relooked and the housing is gouged/damaged. Looks like he needs to replace the rzeppa joint.