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Is there any reason no one will help with this question?

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Old 11-21-2015, 06:33 PM
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Originally Posted by SloopJohnB@mac.com
One of the problems with DIY'ers is that they experience Maintenance Induced Failures to a much larger degree than pros. At least the pros are responsible for their own induced failures and in general repair them without cost (you may have to demonstrate to them that the failure was theirs, but eh).

Even gift amateurs cause problems along the way…I always think back to my last maintenance action and was I anywhere NEAR the wiring, etc., when it won't start after doing other stuff!
Sloop,

Yes; this vehicle was running fine until it quit on me suddenly on the road, and had to be towed home. The only outstanding problems at the time were exhaust system flex joints which had rotted out, but at the time this was the only car I had available to get to a concert at Woodstock that we had complimentary tickets to from one of the owners of the facility.

I'm going to try Georges suggestion tomorrow, and directly apply current to the wire that supplies Terminal 1 of the ECU and Terminal 1 of the 5 Pin Connector at the POS.

I don't recall any work near or around the wiring from the ECU prior to the failure. I was working on the wiring for the HID lighting system, but that system is fairly well separated from the engine wiring, and mostly located in a separate area.
Old 11-21-2015, 06:43 PM
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JCman, I too recall something like that, but since the car was towed home, the temp sensors have been replaced. The RPM sensor, also.

There is an oil pressure sensor on this car, but I don't recall replacing it, or even if there is an oil level sensor on this car.

I know on newer Audi vehicles there are oil level sensors.

Anyway, I'm going to try Georges suggestion tomorrow, weather permitting.

Given a careful look at the wiring diagram, and after hearing from you guys which helped me reason out a potential procedure, I cannot see any negative outcome to directly supplying current as I just described in my reply to Sloop, to the two terminals in question.

Thank you all for your help; I will report back on what happens.
Old 11-22-2015, 03:58 PM
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Guys, I didn't get a chance to do this to day. Will try tomorrow.
Old 11-23-2015, 10:09 AM
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Hey Bin

I am not sure this will help, but my 2.7 did a similar thing to me one day, out of the blue, on the way home from work. Just stopped for no reason.. It would turn over, but would not fire up. While I was waiting for the tow... it fired up! It ran fine for a couple weeks and then did the same thing at exactly the same spot... (and after a while it fired again)

Long story short I had no codes no cell, so I started driving to work with vcds running and eventually got some error that pointed to the crank position sensor... It sounds like you know your wiring etc, but I just wanted to mention this as it may be a possibility.

I guess, a wire can get disconnected to cause this, but if it was running fine it just seems like that is a stretch for it to just break and not me intermittent or something. I am no pro so I may very well be wrong.

Cheers
Massboykie
Old 11-23-2015, 04:57 PM
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LOL MASS…I remember ONE instance where a car stopped with no intermittent problem and it was due to a wire failure.
I was driving home from the Pentagon on Shirley Highway one afternoon and there was this girl sidelined with an older VW bug, air-cooled, probably 68 or so. Non fuel injected. One look at the engine and I noticed a wire hanging from the distributor. It had apparently broken from fatigue, flapping back and forth, etc. Insulation was pretty brittle. I just stripped another inch from it and it's partner and reattached it with a western union splice. I didn't have tape so I just point it out to her and said to use nail polish or get some tape and tape it or get someone to solder and tape it. Car started right up.
Old 11-25-2015, 06:59 AM
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I have not read the other post in detail but I think this problem is being over analayzed ( just my opinion ) .

What exactly is it not doing ??

if it is cranking but not firing it is likely thee is a sensor condition not being met. If you have no spark it is likely that the ECU has not been told to fire as it is missing information.

I would think it is likely the CPS as mentioned , or possibly a cam position sensor as it usually needs to see the cam and crank in time to send the spark signal.
I would check these sensor outputs for sure against a known reference. If this has been discussed previously I apologize

carry on
Old 11-25-2015, 09:19 AM
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Originally Posted by SloopJohnB@mac.com
LOL MASS…I remember ONE instance where a car stopped with no intermittent problem and it was due to a wire failure.
I was driving home from the Pentagon on Shirley Highway one afternoon and there was this girl sidelined with an older VW bug, air-cooled, probably 68 or so. Non fuel injected. One look at the engine and I noticed a wire hanging from the distributor. It had apparently broken from fatigue, flapping back and forth, etc. Insulation was pretty brittle. I just stripped another inch from it and it's partner and reattached it with a western union splice. I didn't have tape so I just point it out to her and said to use nail polish or get some tape and tape it or get someone to solder and tape it. Car started right up.
lol point taken...

Was she hot?

lol

Last edited by massboykie; 11-25-2015 at 11:28 AM.
Old 04-24-2016, 06:54 AM
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Default Problem Solved

Greetings to all of you who gave me advice on this subject. I want to thank all of you.

I have finally gotten the A6 to start after changing almost all of the sensors, but I think the last set of sensors [camshaft position sensors] were the ones [either one or both] that caused the problem.

I should be good to go for a while now, since the car now has all new sensors, new spark plugs, coil pack, spark plug wires, water pump, belts, pulleys, air filter, oil filter, vacuum hoses, crankcase ventilation tubing, vacuum pump, gaskets and seals for the oil sump and the valve covers, new battery from a 1999 A4 that I am junking, new headlights [repair from a deer collision], fresh oil and coolant, and new heavy duty control arm kit and shocks.

I only wish I knew for CERTAIN what I fixed to get the thing running again.

Thanks for all of the great advice. Audi World is the first place I come to when I need repair information.

Best regards,
Binsu
Old 04-24-2016, 05:01 PM
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Default Good for you Binsu

Originally Posted by BinsuJiro
Greetings to all of you who gave me advice on this subject. I want to thank all of you.

I have finally gotten the A6 to start after changing almost all of the sensors, but I think the last set of sensors [camshaft position sensors] were the ones [either one or both] that caused the problem.

I should be good to go for a while now, since the car now has all new sensors, new spark plugs, coil pack, spark plug wires, water pump, belts, pulleys, air filter, oil filter, vacuum hoses, crankcase ventilation tubing, vacuum pump, gaskets and seals for the oil sump and the valve covers, new battery from a 1999 A4 that I am junking, new headlights [repair from a deer collision], fresh oil and coolant, and new heavy duty control arm kit and shocks.

I only wish I knew for CERTAIN what I fixed to get the thing running again.

Thanks for all of the great advice. Audi World is the first place I come to when I need repair information.

Best regards,
Binsu
That's good to hear! But don't pop the cork yet...just kidding.

Not trying to rain on your parade but if one of the cam sensors had a fault you would of seen at least one code if not more, I'm not a betting man but I'd put my chips on the Crank Position Sensor like massboykie mentioned because I've also seen issues with them like throwing one of the only two codes or none at all and with no signal it's a no start for sure.
Old 04-24-2016, 07:26 PM
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Default Just observing from the sidelines...

… thanks to the community for weighing and helping him out. This is the best of our community ….

Happy Motoring

Eric


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