UPDATE: 2001 2.7T Transmission Control Module Software
02-05-2002, 07:22 PM
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UPDATE: 2001 2.7T Transmission Control Module Software
Followed up some very good leads sent to me by fellow members. Thanks folks. Here is what I have found out:
The original TCM part no. is 4B0927156BH.
With the latest software update the part no. changes to 4B0927156DJ (last two letters change).
This change should be marked on the TCM if it has been "flash" programmed. Otherwise, a new TCM will have the DJ designation already marked.
If the actual status cannot be determined from the markings, then diagnostic tools 5051 or 1551 need to be used to get an EPROM diagnostic level.
The latest software will generate code 1717 or 1718. (the old software will generate 1414 or similar).
Befor the new software can be flashed or a new TCM installed, the service technician has to fax the printout from the diagnostic tool to the ZF rep. for authorization. Flash programming is apparently done by a travelling ZF rep.
The new software irons out most of the jerkiness, slow shifting or hesitation... and vibration (did you notice any vibrations as you braked? It is not necessarily warped rotors. It is most noticeable around 35mph and also at about 75 to 80 mph. I am experiencing this with the new transmission!!...and I had new rotors at 9100 miles!!)
As of this afternoon, the EPA issue has not stopped the software upgrade on a case by case basis (my very reliable source did not even mention it). There is obviously a way around the EPA issue. Go figure!!!
More, tomorrow.
The original TCM part no. is 4B0927156BH.
With the latest software update the part no. changes to 4B0927156DJ (last two letters change).
This change should be marked on the TCM if it has been "flash" programmed. Otherwise, a new TCM will have the DJ designation already marked.
If the actual status cannot be determined from the markings, then diagnostic tools 5051 or 1551 need to be used to get an EPROM diagnostic level.
The latest software will generate code 1717 or 1718. (the old software will generate 1414 or similar).
Befor the new software can be flashed or a new TCM installed, the service technician has to fax the printout from the diagnostic tool to the ZF rep. for authorization. Flash programming is apparently done by a travelling ZF rep.
The new software irons out most of the jerkiness, slow shifting or hesitation... and vibration (did you notice any vibrations as you braked? It is not necessarily warped rotors. It is most noticeable around 35mph and also at about 75 to 80 mph. I am experiencing this with the new transmission!!...and I had new rotors at 9100 miles!!)
As of this afternoon, the EPA issue has not stopped the software upgrade on a case by case basis (my very reliable source did not even mention it). There is obviously a way around the EPA issue. Go figure!!!
More, tomorrow.
02-05-2002, 09:23 PM
#3
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Re: UPDATE: 2001 2.7T Transmission Control Module Software
Excuse my ignorance on this but in reading your post I have identified with a couple of the problems you mentioned on my 2001 2.7T:
1. Hesitation when shifting to reverse from drive (takes like 1-2 seconds to actually shift once R is selected)
2. Vibration when braking from highway speeds. I originally thought it was a rotor problem but it was not consistant. Also I will brake slightly from 70 mph or so and let off once I feel the vibration then apply again 5 to 10 mph slower and the vibration is gone. If it were a rotor problem would it not be noticable at all speeds?
Is what you are talking about something that the dealers are now aware of?
1. Hesitation when shifting to reverse from drive (takes like 1-2 seconds to actually shift once R is selected)
2. Vibration when braking from highway speeds. I originally thought it was a rotor problem but it was not consistant. Also I will brake slightly from 70 mph or so and let off once I feel the vibration then apply again 5 to 10 mph slower and the vibration is gone. If it were a rotor problem would it not be noticable at all speeds?
Is what you are talking about something that the dealers are now aware of?
02-06-2002, 08:46 AM
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As far as I am aware, the vibration is known to the Service people.
I guess that not everyone with transmission issues will experience the vibrations. If the dealer is unaware, then the ZF rep should be contacted for confirmation. Of course, they should do the trouble shooting process prescribed by Audi. If the rotors are within tolerance, AND you have shifting problems (jerks, hesitation) then the transmission may be the prime suspect. My vibrations had a tendency to be inconsistent at first, but now it is definitely there. Mostly felt at the lower speeds rather than highway. My Service manager, during the test drive, said "rotors" and it may well be, until they physically check it out. So, watch out, it is best to ask them to also consider transmission issues as well.
There could be other sources of vibration, e.g. engine related, suspension and wheel related. So it is best to let the dealer do the necessary trouble shooting, but emphasize the history behind the transmission problems (may help them identify the problem faster).
I must add that I had vibration problems which became noticeable during a trip to the Grand Canyon (wife driving). Braking on those steep downhill sections of the mountain roads, approaching Verde Valley, south of Flagstaff, set up vibrations which felt like ABS kicking in...but the brakes were not being applied so hard as to activate the ABS. So they changed the rotors...found them warped. At the same time I complained about the jerks and they said it was normal. Not 2000 miles later, I needed a new transmission. I now suspect it may have been transmission too. Two weeks with a new transmission and I've got the vibes!! HA!!
You say you have slow shifting to REVERSE?!! I must say that I have not considered this to be a problem, so haven't checked....of course I will now look into it. Nevertheless, if that were the only problem, I wouldn't worry about it. If you have a jerk, then you should also check for the same in other gears (see further down in this post).
It is common for this transmission to shift slowly. I think Stoney posted some links to posts of people who had experience of the GAIC Tip chip , a couple of days ago...not much faster upshifts but definitely faster downshifts, but the shifts were more pronounced. You'll have to consider the pros and cons for your particular situation.
From my experience, this is what you should evaluate, in D mode:
1. From standing start, accelerate smartly (don't mash the accelerator all the way down (will go to red line)). Check if the acceleration feels stifled as it moves from first to second. It feels like the car is being choked. As soon as you're in second, the car should accelerate freely (unless you have the turbo system problems - listen for a chirping sound which rises a little with acceleration, similar to a cricket on a summer night. Means there is a leak somewher, typically in one or both turbo bypass valves (diaphrams are torn)).
2. Slow down for a turn, lift off the accelerator...you should be in second...then accelrate away. Upon re-acceleration, notice if there is a jerk as the transmission re-engages. If this is very slight, and you never noticed before, then there is nothing to worry about. The new 2002 car I tried out has a slight jerk also (but I was really looking for it). If the jerk is quite noticeable, then it is due to the slow shifting algorithm in the software.
3. Slow down such that the transmission shifts down to second or first, then accelerate away. This is the rolling stop reacceleration situation. Notice if there is a jerk or hesitation as the transmission shifts up.
4. After driving normally, brake and come to a stop. Just as the car stops, notice if there is a jerk as the gears disengage. Again, if this is slight, don't worry about it.
5. When driving off from a dead stop, notice if the car jerks into motion upon acceleration. This can be quite severe when first starting up from cold. This could be a combination of drive-by-wire throttle lag plus transmission control sofware.
6. Check for jerks during changes up and down in the other gears. A very slight hesitation or jerk is to be expected. Emphasis is on VERY. Anything else in these gears should be investigated by the service people along with items 1 to 4 above.
If you just have slight hesitations or jerks, it is normal. Most cars will have this to some degree. If there is a solenoid valve seal issue, they have established their own procedures to confirm it. If you have pronounced jerks and hesitation, then suggest the new software as a fix, if you don't already have it. As I said before, there may be something else causing the problems. Let the service people investigate.
There could be other sources of vibration, e.g. engine related, suspension and wheel related. So it is best to let the dealer do the necessary trouble shooting, but emphasize the history behind the transmission problems (may help them identify the problem faster).
I must add that I had vibration problems which became noticeable during a trip to the Grand Canyon (wife driving). Braking on those steep downhill sections of the mountain roads, approaching Verde Valley, south of Flagstaff, set up vibrations which felt like ABS kicking in...but the brakes were not being applied so hard as to activate the ABS. So they changed the rotors...found them warped. At the same time I complained about the jerks and they said it was normal. Not 2000 miles later, I needed a new transmission. I now suspect it may have been transmission too. Two weeks with a new transmission and I've got the vibes!! HA!!
You say you have slow shifting to REVERSE?!! I must say that I have not considered this to be a problem, so haven't checked....of course I will now look into it. Nevertheless, if that were the only problem, I wouldn't worry about it. If you have a jerk, then you should also check for the same in other gears (see further down in this post).
It is common for this transmission to shift slowly. I think Stoney posted some links to posts of people who had experience of the GAIC Tip chip , a couple of days ago...not much faster upshifts but definitely faster downshifts, but the shifts were more pronounced. You'll have to consider the pros and cons for your particular situation.
From my experience, this is what you should evaluate, in D mode:
1. From standing start, accelerate smartly (don't mash the accelerator all the way down (will go to red line)). Check if the acceleration feels stifled as it moves from first to second. It feels like the car is being choked. As soon as you're in second, the car should accelerate freely (unless you have the turbo system problems - listen for a chirping sound which rises a little with acceleration, similar to a cricket on a summer night. Means there is a leak somewher, typically in one or both turbo bypass valves (diaphrams are torn)).
2. Slow down for a turn, lift off the accelerator...you should be in second...then accelrate away. Upon re-acceleration, notice if there is a jerk as the transmission re-engages. If this is very slight, and you never noticed before, then there is nothing to worry about. The new 2002 car I tried out has a slight jerk also (but I was really looking for it). If the jerk is quite noticeable, then it is due to the slow shifting algorithm in the software.
3. Slow down such that the transmission shifts down to second or first, then accelerate away. This is the rolling stop reacceleration situation. Notice if there is a jerk or hesitation as the transmission shifts up.
4. After driving normally, brake and come to a stop. Just as the car stops, notice if there is a jerk as the gears disengage. Again, if this is slight, don't worry about it.
5. When driving off from a dead stop, notice if the car jerks into motion upon acceleration. This can be quite severe when first starting up from cold. This could be a combination of drive-by-wire throttle lag plus transmission control sofware.
6. Check for jerks during changes up and down in the other gears. A very slight hesitation or jerk is to be expected. Emphasis is on VERY. Anything else in these gears should be investigated by the service people along with items 1 to 4 above.
If you just have slight hesitations or jerks, it is normal. Most cars will have this to some degree. If there is a solenoid valve seal issue, they have established their own procedures to confirm it. If you have pronounced jerks and hesitation, then suggest the new software as a fix, if you don't already have it. As I said before, there may be something else causing the problems. Let the service people investigate.
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02-06-2002, 11:01 AM
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How do we get Audi to do this service? Is there a condition that must exist...
well, besides the crappy slow shifts and the slamming in to gear at rolling stops? I can never get my car to recreate this for the service guys. Will this be a blanket fix or does the car have to throw some certain code?
02-06-2002, 01:51 PM
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Obviously, there must be a verifiable problem before they can fix anything.
I don't know whether they are treating it as a blanket fix, but certainly on a case by case basis. There may be EPA certification issues for a blanket fix whereas on a case by case basis, they probably are treating them as specific repairs.
In your case, have you taken the technician with you for an extended test drive? With the new transmission, my technician took the car for a really long drive in all kinds of traffic and was able to verify the continued existence of the problem, though on an intermittent basis and of lesser severity. He concluded that it was a software issue, not mechanical.
Driving the car every day means only you know the issues. So try to get them to drive for an extended period simulating your typical drives with you in the passenger seat (you might have done this already). Then swap into a new 2002 car (in D mode) for comparison. If the problem is real, keep bugging them....they simply do not want adverse public relations. Thats the only way, in my opinion. (In my case, the problem was very obvious, yet the first time (9000 miles) they said it was OK, only to have to replace the transmission 2000 miles later!! These guys are very busy, if they don't find the problem in step 1, they say everything is OK. Voila!! And remember, they only get paid for the hours fixed by Audi for specific trouble shooting. Any extra time is not reimbursed..at least with my dealer).
If your service people are aware of the issue, they should be able to get the new software...can't be a very complex operation for the right person with the right tools (ZF rep.) or swap out the TCM for a reprogrammed one. Ask them to take care of it at your next visit. Audi should take care of the issue under warranty.
Good Luck.
In your case, have you taken the technician with you for an extended test drive? With the new transmission, my technician took the car for a really long drive in all kinds of traffic and was able to verify the continued existence of the problem, though on an intermittent basis and of lesser severity. He concluded that it was a software issue, not mechanical.
Driving the car every day means only you know the issues. So try to get them to drive for an extended period simulating your typical drives with you in the passenger seat (you might have done this already). Then swap into a new 2002 car (in D mode) for comparison. If the problem is real, keep bugging them....they simply do not want adverse public relations. Thats the only way, in my opinion. (In my case, the problem was very obvious, yet the first time (9000 miles) they said it was OK, only to have to replace the transmission 2000 miles later!! These guys are very busy, if they don't find the problem in step 1, they say everything is OK. Voila!! And remember, they only get paid for the hours fixed by Audi for specific trouble shooting. Any extra time is not reimbursed..at least with my dealer).
If your service people are aware of the issue, they should be able to get the new software...can't be a very complex operation for the right person with the right tools (ZF rep.) or swap out the TCM for a reprogrammed one. Ask them to take care of it at your next visit. Audi should take care of the issue under warranty.
Good Luck.