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New to Me 05 A6.....Intro and progress

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Old 10-22-2014, 03:28 PM
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Oh I do want to keep it. Won't deny that. At all.
Old 10-22-2014, 03:41 PM
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Word of caution, your wife may go as far as prying your Audi from your dead hands.

Out of all the cars we owned in the past, my wife's A6 is the first car in which she doesn't offer to let me drive. She heads right to the drivers seat with keys in hand.
Old 10-22-2014, 05:59 PM
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Originally Posted by A6 4.2 Vier
Word of caution, your wife may go as far as prying your Audi from your dead hands.

Out of all the cars we owned in the past, my wife's A6 is the first car in which she doesn't offer to let me drive. She heads right to the drivers seat with keys in hand.
My wife feels the same way.

Now for a question for the group. I just replaced the tensioners and failed to properly pre tension the chains. Now they are obviously off. I will install the crank lock and loosen the cam adjuster bolts, manually rotate the cams and then install the cam locks. When I then tighten the cam bolts will I be good to go? Since the tensioners are new and fully engaged, the chains should be fine, right?
Old 10-27-2014, 12:47 AM
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Originally Posted by cnyman
My wife feels the same way.

Now for a question for the group. I just replaced the tensioners and failed to properly pre tension the chains. Now they are obviously off. I will install the crank lock and loosen the cam adjuster bolts, manually rotate the cams and then install the cam locks. When I then tighten the cam bolts will I be good to go? Since the tensioners are new and fully engaged, the chains should be fine, right?
Yeah, you should be fine. Just make sure you get the crank locked in the proper position, and your cams shouldn't be that far out because if you had everything locked and just didn't pre-tension when finishing up, then they'll still be pretty close.
Old 10-27-2014, 12:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Fastbird
Yeah, you should be fine. Just make sure you get the crank locked in the proper position, and your cams shouldn't be that far out because if you had everything locked and just didn't pre-tension when finishing up, then they'll still be pretty close.
Well, I am pretty much screwed. The passenger side bank was a few degrees off so I did as described. Got it all put back together and it barely runs. I did a compression test and I got nothing on the pass side in all three. I took a look with my borescope and can see where the pistons have hit the valves. So....
I now get to pull the head and replace the valves. I think what happened was that I didn't have the slack completely on the tensioner side and when the tensioner was released, it only took up the slack a little. When the engine started, it must have slipped by more than a tooth. My compression gauge says that the drivers side compression is at 90psi or so and that seems low but all three are the same. (the timing on that side was good as when I put the pin in the crank, the lock bolted right on.) The engine has 130k miles on it but is really gunked up with a lot of sludge. I have records of the 9 oil changes from 0-90,000 and then I changed it every 5k after that. You would think that full synthetic would have cleaned up what was there but this is one of the worst engines I have ever seen. I am thinking the wife now will need a new one as when I get this one running again, It will have to go.

Anybody out there ever pulled the heads without taking the engine out? It looks very possible but these cars, you never know until you try.
Old 10-27-2014, 02:49 PM
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Aw jeez, I'm sorry man. That sucks.

I was prepared to pop at least one head in car. I know it's doable, and other than getting the exhaust manifold popped off, should be a fairly easy job.

Check rockauto.com for the valves. IIRC they're about $5.50 each give or take there. I'd recommend checking the valve guide for slop though, too much wear (likely from a bent valve) and you'll seep a ton of oil through and cause more issues. Elsawin says replace the head if the valve guide clearances are too much, so you'll probably be hard pressed to find a shop to replace just the guides in the head.
Old 10-28-2014, 01:30 PM
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Ok, so getting around to tidying up some misc stuff on this car.

Issues I've found that bother me enough to take care of immediately:

Drivers sun visor -- you have to FORCE it in order to move it down. The rotating mechanism is fubar. Dealer wanted $387.50 for a new one. No thanks. Got a line on one for $50.

Drivers Sun Visor Retainer. It's broke. Dealer ordered for $19.50 today simply because they've been good to me so far (printed a HUGE service history on the car for me no questions asked).

Left side of MMI control buttons don't light up at night. The NAV/INFO/CAR/SETUP buttons. Not major, but irritating. I rapping on the center console and got nothing. Anyone with any advice here?

Nav DVD player will be here tomorrow. Burning an ISO and will have the system testing on Friday probably. It's goign to suck ordering a fakra c female to female extension because they all seem to come from China, so it's going to take a couple weeks to get. Want to do as much of an OEM install as I can.

Car DOES need a TPMS sensor (or all) replaced, after I initialize and store the pressures about 20 minutes later I get a Tire Pressure Sensor System malfunction warning. May vagcom it out as reportedly it's doable. Otherwise, it's a great excuse for a new set of shoes, and with my 30% discount on Michelin/BFG/Uniroyal tires......I won't be in too deep.

Haven't started any paint correction yet. Just sealed a deal on my Celica and want to work that over before the new owner picks it up. But hey, the Audi will get the garage spot (If I've still got it at the end of November when the Celica leaves).

And FWIW.....I'm not trying very hard to sell the Audi. For Sale sign in the windows and a craigslist ad. I LOVE the car.
Old 11-01-2014, 12:51 PM
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Goodies! Now to get around to installing them. Waiting on Fakra C Female to Female extension to show up, but may try to get nav dvd in and running prior just to ensure it works.

Old 11-01-2014, 02:25 PM
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I have been researching on the "adaptive light defective' warning light that came on on my Audi A6 2005. The lights both function perfect, when I start the car in the dark with lights on the lights move up and down. I read that there is a module that can be replaced, but I do not know where is located. has any one ran into this issue yet?
Old 11-02-2014, 06:20 AM
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Originally Posted by rebelipa
I have been researching on the "adaptive light defective' warning light that came on on my Audi A6 2005. The lights both function perfect, when I start the car in the dark with lights on the lights move up and down. I read that there is a module that can be replaced, but I do not know where is located. has any one ran into this issue yet?
You got the wrong thread bud. Best search or start your own.


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