07-25-2016, 02:28 PM
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- Audi A6 C6 Quattro System Fluid Change<br>Step by step instructions for do-it-yourself repairs.
So you want to change your trans fluid???
08-26-2015, 11:20 AM
#42
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The DIY is a trade vs. the value of your time and intrinsic satisfaction of doing the job. In your case, you needed a reflash, and to my knowledge that is not DIY.
08-26-2015, 02:36 PM
#43
AudiWorld Senior Member
i just sorted out a horror story on a friends q5 3.0 tdi 2009...he had the oil changed and updated software on gearbox....he said it still changed awful and sometimes smelled like burning oil....so i took a look at my vcds logs i had on his car...
could right away see that they didnt update software! (had vcds logs before/after his visit to dealer)..
not only that...i took a look at the receipt..that said atf oil change...only problem was..that oil part nr wasn't for the atf in the dsg gearbox..i thought..hmm wtf..could they be soo stupid to put in wrong oil?.....and yez...thats exactly what they did! when we took a look....
now i have changed to right oil and updated the software .....grrr...some peoples should not work with cars...
/H
could right away see that they didnt update software! (had vcds logs before/after his visit to dealer)..
not only that...i took a look at the receipt..that said atf oil change...only problem was..that oil part nr wasn't for the atf in the dsg gearbox..i thought..hmm wtf..could they be soo stupid to put in wrong oil?.....and yez...thats exactly what they did! when we took a look....
now i have changed to right oil and updated the software .....grrr...some peoples should not work with cars...
/H
11-05-2015, 10:56 AM
#44
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I know your post is old but I am changing the trans fluid on my 06 4.2 with the same mileage. How is the car doing now. Shifting ok? I have no problems with mine so I'm just doing it for prevention but I am praying it doesn't cause any issues!! Thanks
11-05-2015, 10:58 AM
#45
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Nice write-up, gave me the courage to do the job myself. Just finished the job on a 2006 A6 4.2 with nearly 103k miles. Bought the car about 3 months ago and it was not clear whether the AT fluid had ever been changed (not according to dealership records, at least). The used fluid was very dark. Bought a kit from thectsc.com (6 liters of ZF lifeguard 8 fluid, filter, gasket, drain plug, filler plug gasket).
Small correction on the write-up, the hex for the filler plug is 17mm (not 16mm), at least on mine. I found everything to come off fairly easily, except the drain plug was a bit "mangled" but jammed the torx in there and it came off (good thing the kit came with a new plug - hex this time). The 23 bolts around the perimeter of the oil pan were not tight at all, and I would recomment using a torx screwdriver if you have one to speed things up. As the OP points out, the 3 or 4 ones towards the rear of the vehicle are a bit of a pain - not much room for a ratchet. I ended up using the torx bit only, pushed it in by hand and used an adjustable wrench around the bit to turn them loose. The angle is such that you can almost get a torx screwdriver on them.
Refilling went without problems. 5 liters almost on the dot (which matched the amount coming out). Getting 6 liters for the job is not a bad idea (even though it's expensive stuff) in case you spill and/or get some overflow through the filler hole.
Small correction on the write-up, the hex for the filler plug is 17mm (not 16mm), at least on mine. I found everything to come off fairly easily, except the drain plug was a bit "mangled" but jammed the torx in there and it came off (good thing the kit came with a new plug - hex this time). The 23 bolts around the perimeter of the oil pan were not tight at all, and I would recomment using a torx screwdriver if you have one to speed things up. As the OP points out, the 3 or 4 ones towards the rear of the vehicle are a bit of a pain - not much room for a ratchet. I ended up using the torx bit only, pushed it in by hand and used an adjustable wrench around the bit to turn them loose. The angle is such that you can almost get a torx screwdriver on them.
Refilling went without problems. 5 liters almost on the dot (which matched the amount coming out). Getting 6 liters for the job is not a bad idea (even though it's expensive stuff) in case you spill and/or get some overflow through the filler hole.
11-06-2015, 04:59 AM
#46
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Bob
06-19-2016, 10:16 PM
#47
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Did this on the wife's car yesterday … what an awful design. Everything about this was just a pain in the **** compared to other cars I have changed fluid on.
1. Ours is a 2008 - Had to call the dealer to make sure I ordered the right stuff. Two different types of fluid, two different gaskets?
2. I ordered all original Audi parts .. fluid I bought from ZF. Even after calling the dealer and they confirmed the gasket type. I pulled off the pan and the gasket was a metal gasket and not a paper one that they had said. I need to get this done, so I took a risk and re-used the metal gasket. I put a very small amount of gasket sealer (yes I know it is not recommended at all and I hate to ghetto stuff, usually insisting on using the right parts but the dealer was closed). I put a very small amount on the gasket surfaces and put it back on. I let it dry for a good 8+ hours before attempting to fill.
3. Filling was a pain. I could only fill a little bit at a time and start the engine to suck in more. I managed to get about 2.5 liters in there. I am not sure how the OP managed to put the car in every gear, I tried to run the car on jack stands but did not dare to get the speed up high enough to get through every gear. Had to let the car down and drive it carefully. Also the car threw traction and ABS codes when attempting to drive the car on jack stands. After driving through every gear, the car was now too hot to fill, so had to let it cool down again.
The car has about 70k miles on it and the trans fluid was actually pretty clean. The magnets did have some deposits but not too bad.
I reused the o-ring and fill plug (after cleaning them of course) just to test drive and re-fill etc .. I have a new fill plug and o-ring, but I don't think the fill plug is necessary. The o-ring should be sufficient. I will put the new o-ring and plug in when I have confirmed properly that the fluid is at the right level. One more round should do it I think.
I don't want to do this again. I think the car can go to 150K miles next time (at least another 80K) … by that time, we will probably sell the car.
I did the coolant, brake fluid flush and this all in one go … brake fluid flush was by far the smoothest and easiest.
1. Ours is a 2008 - Had to call the dealer to make sure I ordered the right stuff. Two different types of fluid, two different gaskets?
2. I ordered all original Audi parts .. fluid I bought from ZF. Even after calling the dealer and they confirmed the gasket type. I pulled off the pan and the gasket was a metal gasket and not a paper one that they had said. I need to get this done, so I took a risk and re-used the metal gasket. I put a very small amount of gasket sealer (yes I know it is not recommended at all and I hate to ghetto stuff, usually insisting on using the right parts but the dealer was closed). I put a very small amount on the gasket surfaces and put it back on. I let it dry for a good 8+ hours before attempting to fill.
3. Filling was a pain. I could only fill a little bit at a time and start the engine to suck in more. I managed to get about 2.5 liters in there. I am not sure how the OP managed to put the car in every gear, I tried to run the car on jack stands but did not dare to get the speed up high enough to get through every gear. Had to let the car down and drive it carefully. Also the car threw traction and ABS codes when attempting to drive the car on jack stands. After driving through every gear, the car was now too hot to fill, so had to let it cool down again.
The car has about 70k miles on it and the trans fluid was actually pretty clean. The magnets did have some deposits but not too bad.
I reused the o-ring and fill plug (after cleaning them of course) just to test drive and re-fill etc .. I have a new fill plug and o-ring, but I don't think the fill plug is necessary. The o-ring should be sufficient. I will put the new o-ring and plug in when I have confirmed properly that the fluid is at the right level. One more round should do it I think.
I don't want to do this again. I think the car can go to 150K miles next time (at least another 80K) … by that time, we will probably sell the car.
I did the coolant, brake fluid flush and this all in one go … brake fluid flush was by far the smoothest and easiest.
06-20-2016, 05:29 AM
#48
AudiWorld Senior Member
I am not sure how the OP managed to put the car in every gear, I tried to run the car on jack stands but did not dare to get the speed up high enough to get through every gear. Had to let the car down and drive it carefully. Also the car threw traction and ABS codes when attempting to drive the car on jack stands. After driving through every gear, the car was now too hot to fill, so had to let it cool down again.
cheers!/H
06-20-2016, 06:26 AM
#49
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Thanks ... Thinking about it, I think maybe I misunderstood here. What I read by "shifting through all the gears" is that the transmission needs to go into reverse, go into 1st, 2nd, 3rd, 4th, 5th, 6th. Now after thinking about it, does it mean you just move the selector from Park to Reverse for 20s, then to Neutral and then Drive for 20s etc ...? I actually did do this, but the key thing I missed, re-reading the original post, the engine needs to be running and in Park for the final fill ...
Forgot to say Thanks to OP and others for chiming in.
*Edit* I think I am all done now ... put the final liter and a half in. The only couple of things I would recommend is to maybe:
1. When you start monitoring the temperature, I would start at 27C perhaps. The temperature does go up fairly slowly but it also take some time to pump. By the time you're close, it's into the mid 30s
2. The crossmember bolts were tight on mine and were some what corroded. wire-wheeled them to get the corrosion off and added anti-seize to the non-threaded part.
3. Several people mentioned the ones pan bolts at the rear of the car being awkward, I had to use a small bit and vice grips because I couldn't get in there with a ratchet and still accidentally stripped the head on one of them. I had to use a chisel to turn it. I have slotted the bolt temporarily and will get a replacement asap.
The shifts are all nice and smooth now ... they were a little erratic before the final fill and I did not put in what I took out, that's why I re-read this thread again but more carefully.
Forgot to say Thanks to OP and others for chiming in.
*Edit* I think I am all done now ... put the final liter and a half in. The only couple of things I would recommend is to maybe:
1. When you start monitoring the temperature, I would start at 27C perhaps. The temperature does go up fairly slowly but it also take some time to pump. By the time you're close, it's into the mid 30s
2. The crossmember bolts were tight on mine and were some what corroded. wire-wheeled them to get the corrosion off and added anti-seize to the non-threaded part.
3. Several people mentioned the ones pan bolts at the rear of the car being awkward, I had to use a small bit and vice grips because I couldn't get in there with a ratchet and still accidentally stripped the head on one of them. I had to use a chisel to turn it. I have slotted the bolt temporarily and will get a replacement asap.
The shifts are all nice and smooth now ... they were a little erratic before the final fill and I did not put in what I took out, that's why I re-read this thread again but more carefully.
Last edited by turbo97se; 06-20-2016 at 08:56 AM.
06-20-2016, 10:14 AM
#50
AudiWorld Senior Member
yeah...engine running after initial fill...then hold brake and shift lever through all gears..holding couple of seconds in each..go through like 3 times..then top up atf to right level while engine running an proper atf temp.. =)
cheers!/H
cheers!/H