1st Audi and New D2 S8 Owner Needs Advice
#31
AudiWorld Member
Thread Starter
Well they dont stock any of these pumps to sell outright- with or without a core charge...They test it, fix it if its broken and send it back. looks like I'm going the used route.
#32
AudiWorld Member
Thread Starter
Update:
I bought this and then installed it over the long weekend.
ABS Steuergerät AUDI VW 0265202401 8E0614111T S | eBay
Part fit- it bolted up. the connector was correct and I now have no more ESP or ABS light on. I can also slam on the brakes and the code does not come back.
However, I still have what I consider to be a soft pedal. I blead the brakes twice with a motive power bleeder and VCDS. I may have to get a reverse bleeder and try that technique. I did notice that the manual says to bleed the calipers in a different order than normal. I blead them the usual way the first time then the recommended way the second time.
I bought this and then installed it over the long weekend.
ABS Steuergerät AUDI VW 0265202401 8E0614111T S | eBay
Part fit- it bolted up. the connector was correct and I now have no more ESP or ABS light on. I can also slam on the brakes and the code does not come back.
However, I still have what I consider to be a soft pedal. I blead the brakes twice with a motive power bleeder and VCDS. I may have to get a reverse bleeder and try that technique. I did notice that the manual says to bleed the calipers in a different order than normal. I blead them the usual way the first time then the recommended way the second time.
#33
Just a used part? Why from Germany?
Getting a firm pedal can be tough, the ABS tests in VCDS helped, I think I had a pressure bleeder hooked up for them once. Sometimes some hard stops really help also, if you get some snow or wet weather try a few hard stops getting deep into the ABS in a big parking lot or somewhere similarly safe.
-Joel.
Getting a firm pedal can be tough, the ABS tests in VCDS helped, I think I had a pressure bleeder hooked up for them once. Sometimes some hard stops really help also, if you get some snow or wet weather try a few hard stops getting deep into the ABS in a big parking lot or somewhere similarly safe.
-Joel.
#34
AudiWorld Member
Thread Starter
Joel,
Not just a used part. A rebuilt and tested part. I could have bought used all day long from the USA. I could have sent mine to the UK for a rebuild OR I could have did what I did and get a rebuilt one outright from Germany.
I hope you are right and I will try some hard stops in wet weather in a big lot to get deep in the ABS...that should get the air out of the ABS block and into the lines and I'll power bleed a 3rd time...you know what they say about the 3rd time.
-Matt
Not just a used part. A rebuilt and tested part. I could have bought used all day long from the USA. I could have sent mine to the UK for a rebuild OR I could have did what I did and get a rebuilt one outright from Germany.
I hope you are right and I will try some hard stops in wet weather in a big lot to get deep in the ABS...that should get the air out of the ABS block and into the lines and I'll power bleed a 3rd time...you know what they say about the 3rd time.
-Matt
#35
Cool, on the translation of the page I only saw "used" and "tested".
Another component to getting a good pedal especially if you need to step hard to get there is to fashion a "brake block" which is a brace between the master cylinder and the strut bar. These blocks are machined out of aluminum and sold from time to time and I am sure if you are not familiar with them you can google, there are threads here and on the other popular D2 site. I make my own out of wood and they work just fine.
I used a couple scraps of thin plywood and white glue to hold them together and in place. White glue allows the wood to be easily popped off the strut bar and any residue cleaned off if need be. A couple business-card sized pieces of thin plywood and a random scrap or two in between to make the wedge shape, maybe a hammer dent to make a seat for the end of the MC. It'd be easy to make one out of a decent piece of maple and maybe someday I will upgrade mine however the scraps work fine and it's all under the cowl cover.
Another component to getting a good pedal especially if you need to step hard to get there is to fashion a "brake block" which is a brace between the master cylinder and the strut bar. These blocks are machined out of aluminum and sold from time to time and I am sure if you are not familiar with them you can google, there are threads here and on the other popular D2 site. I make my own out of wood and they work just fine.
I used a couple scraps of thin plywood and white glue to hold them together and in place. White glue allows the wood to be easily popped off the strut bar and any residue cleaned off if need be. A couple business-card sized pieces of thin plywood and a random scrap or two in between to make the wedge shape, maybe a hammer dent to make a seat for the end of the MC. It'd be easy to make one out of a decent piece of maple and maybe someday I will upgrade mine however the scraps work fine and it's all under the cowl cover.
#36
AudiWorld Member
Thread Starter
I didnt consider firewall flex contributing to pedal feel but I guess it affects it. The car just doesnt stop like it should. I've driven old cars from the 60's all the way up to new near super cars with carbon brakes and this one doesnt stop as quick as it should relative to applied pedal pressure.
The ABS block is one piece due to the heavy power wires for the pump being hard wired to the solenoid module. In order to fix what fails (the pump motor) the wires cut, the motor rebuilt and the wires soldered back together - as you can see from the pics thats what was done.
The ABS block is one piece due to the heavy power wires for the pump being hard wired to the solenoid module. In order to fix what fails (the pump motor) the wires cut, the motor rebuilt and the wires soldered back together - as you can see from the pics thats what was done.
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