2001 D2 4 pad brake & rotor change - HELP!!!
#1
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2001 D2 4 pad brake & rotor change - HELP!!!
So, I've got the wheels off and the 4 pads out of one of the calipers, but now I can't figure out how to get the caliper assembly off the wheel! I'm using Paul's audipages.com as a guide, but the procedure for the 2 pad setup seems different from the 4 pad setup.
A number 7 hex head won't work where the caliper pins are and it looks like the upper caliper pin is blocked by the brake bleed nipple. The 2 big bolts which hold the entire caliper assembly (which are 13/16???) straight up won't budge.
Any direction you guys can help me with this would be greatly appreciated! Or, if you want some beer and are close to Parker Colorado, come on by!
Thanks in advance.
A number 7 hex head won't work where the caliper pins are and it looks like the upper caliper pin is blocked by the brake bleed nipple. The 2 big bolts which hold the entire caliper assembly (which are 13/16???) straight up won't budge.
Any direction you guys can help me with this would be greatly appreciated! Or, if you want some beer and are close to Parker Colorado, come on by!
Thanks in advance.
#4
AudiWorld Super User
The 13/16ths bolts ARE the key...they WILL break loose...I've done this a couple of times.
They are torqued to 140 ft lbs, so you gotta get a good bite with a breaker bar and maybe a swivel joint and stand on it...you gotta put 140lbs back on em during reassembly, so you gotta have the right tools.
The top one will require removing the little bolt (10mm?)that holds the brake line bracket, to get just a little extra clearance. Top 13/16ths bolt must be removed and lower one can just be loosened (or removed if you like...I leave it loose)..then the caliper will rotate downwards enough to clear removing the rotor.
I've done this (again) just recently...it works.
They are torqued to 140 ft lbs, so you gotta get a good bite with a breaker bar and maybe a swivel joint and stand on it...you gotta put 140lbs back on em during reassembly, so you gotta have the right tools.
The top one will require removing the little bolt (10mm?)that holds the brake line bracket, to get just a little extra clearance. Top 13/16ths bolt must be removed and lower one can just be loosened (or removed if you like...I leave it loose)..then the caliper will rotate downwards enough to clear removing the rotor.
I've done this (again) just recently...it works.
Last edited by silverd2; 07-23-2011 at 01:05 PM.
#5
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Thanks for the reply! I put the old pads back in and the wheels back on for the timebeing...I was getting a bit too angry to proceed without destroying something. When I have a bit more patience (and it's not so hot), I'll try again!
#6
AudiWorld Super User
Not a terribly labor intensive operation, but I sweated buckets and have rewarded myself with the rest of the day in AC, watchin TV and enjoying a lovely beverage. I "was' going to mow also...HA! ...Maybe tomorrow morning
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#8
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On one side (driver) I literally stood on the breaker bar handle and on the other (passenger) lifted with a leg under it with all I had...a jack under the end of the breaker bar would actually do it on that side.
On both sides, of course, make sure the socket is firmly planted so as not to run the risk of rounding the bolt head.