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Control Arms - Ocap or Meyle or OEM?

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Old 05-27-2014, 08:04 AM   #1
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Default Control Arms - Ocap or Meyle or OEM?

Any opinions (good or bad) or recommendations on a good control arm kit? I'm thinking about doing these relatively soon.

Blauparts: Ocap (Oh crap?) - $545.95 for kit with "improved tie rod ends." I've heard mixed reviews about this brand, but I have no experience. Blau states that Ocap is OE supplier to VW/Audi.

Blauparts: Meyle -$imalar price but currently out of stock. German made. I've heard they make good quality parts.

Genuineaudiparts: OEM - I priced on GAP for $1,737.35 + SH including all arms, tie rod ends, sway bar links and hardware kit. OUCH!
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Old 05-27-2014, 08:36 AM   #2
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OCAP is NOT a vw/audi supplier. skip them
Meyle is junk skip them too

order lemforder or TRW arms, try partsgeek.com or rmeuropean.com

Last edited by audinutt; 05-27-2014 at 08:39 AM.
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Old 05-27-2014, 08:54 AM   #3
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Originally Posted by audinutt View Post
OCAP is NOT a vw/audi supplier. skip them
Meyle is junk skip them too

order lemforder or TRW arms, try partsgeek.com or rmeuropean.com
It appears PG does not carry a full set of arms for either brand you mention. I'll do some more research.

For arms/sway bar links/TRE's on rmeuropean.com total comes to $1089.41. I think I saw the full hardware kit on GAP for $100.

Thanks for the help.

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Old 05-27-2014, 09:04 AM   #4
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I also need driver's side upper control arms, and I'm going to try Beck & Arnley. They seem to have good reviews. I've used other products from them with good results.

I've found Lemforder parts are about/if not more expensive than Audi OEM parts.

http://www.beckarnley.com

Good luck.
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Old 05-27-2014, 04:55 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by 2001 S8 View Post
I also need driver's side upper control arms, and I'm going to try Beck & Arnley. They seem to have good reviews. I've used other products from them with good results.

I've found Lemforder parts are about/if not more expensive than Audi OEM parts.

http://www.beckarnley.com

Good luck.
When it comes to control arms for any VW/Audi, Audinutt is right on the money...ONLY Lemforder or TRW are a good choice.

OCAP=junk.

Beck & Arnley are OK for many parts (I've used em), but wouldn't risk their control arms...nothing I've used by them has the to take the heavy stress that control arms do....I personally would risk it.

As much as I like to save $$ on many parts, I would not use anything but Lem's or TRW's for control arms.

Not sure, but I thought OEM control arms are Lemforder(?)...I know my inner tie rod ends are Lem's from the factory, and perfect at 130K miles.
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Old 05-28-2014, 05:10 AM   #6
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Not sure, but I thought OEM control arms are Lemforder(?)
The Lemfoerder arms on rmeuropean.com are listed with Audi part numbers, so I'd assume that's a safe bet. They also state "original equipment."

A few of the Lem arms on partsgeek.com (that they actually carry...they don't have them all) are $10-20 cheaper/arm. So, it appears to be around $1k to replace all 8 arms, sway bar links, and TREs with OEM parts. As a comparison, based on Audi list prices (aka ECS prices), the total comes to nearly $2.3k.

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Old 05-29-2014, 02:03 PM   #7
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How cool are these?!

http://store.034motorsport.com/034mo...udi-a8-s8.html

Probably way too hardcore for street driving, but as a dedicated track car these would be sweet, after a 6spd conversion and some adjustable coilovers of course. Maybe some day...
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Old 05-29-2014, 03:34 PM   #8
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Is there a source for the bushing? I've got a nice old arbor that works like a top.

Thanks,
pc

Ps. What about Bilstein?

Last edited by pocketchange; 05-29-2014 at 04:03 PM.
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Old 05-29-2014, 05:31 PM   #9
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Is there a source for the bushing? I've got a nice old arbor that works like a top.

Thanks,
pc

Ps. What about Bilstein?
I was just about to ask the same question. It would seem the best approach is to use the Audi parts and just replace bushings. I wonder if there is some number/code just on the rubber part that could hint at the bushing source.
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Old 05-29-2014, 06:24 PM   #10
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I was just about to ask the same question. It would seem the best approach is to use the Audi parts and just replace bushings. I wonder if there is some number/code just on the rubber part that could hint at the bushing source.
ETKA, same #'s for all yrs FL and PFL D2's:

Fr Upper front...4D0 407 516 C

Fr Upper rear....4D0 407 515 C

Fr Lower front...4D0 407 182 G

Fr Lower rear....4D0 407 183 AC

Lower strut mount...4D0 407 181 H

Any place that stocks OEM parts should carry them...Like GAP, ECS, etc..

A lotta work and taking the chance that the ball joint will last as long as a 2nd bushing. On most past VW's, the upper arm ball joints were the 1st to go on me, especially if there's the least little breach in the boot. I'd want a fresh new arm while I'm in there, if it was me.
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Old 05-30-2014, 11:53 AM   #11
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Is it possible to R/R the Ball Joint too or does it take a special tool to remove it? pc

Ps. silverd2.. Thank You for these PN's, no surprise as to prices..

Last edited by pocketchange; 05-30-2014 at 12:06 PM.
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Old 05-30-2014, 04:40 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by audinutt View Post
OCAP is NOT a vw/audi supplier. skip them
Meyle is junk skip them too

order lemforder or TRW arms, try partsgeek.com or rmeuropean.com
Myle HD suspension and steering stuff is far from "junk" they Are very well built for the money. yet to have any of the HD series stuff fail on customer cars. They may be made in china, but Germans run the factories and do the Quality control.
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Old 05-31-2014, 06:20 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pocketchange View Post
Is it possible to R/R the Ball Joint too or does it take a special tool to remove it? pc

Ps. silverd2.. Thank You for these PN's, no surprise as to prices..
Not to my knowledge...have never seen replacement parts (not listed in ETKA or service manuals) or a procedure.
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Old 05-31-2014, 05:36 PM   #14
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You two need to cool your jets and discontinue the argumentative personal attacks and name calling. Which, by the way, are not permitted in the forums no matter who started it. Either take it offline or cease or this thread will be closed as the first remedy.
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Old 06-01-2014, 03:05 AM   #15
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First, I tried Meyle and got about 3 years out of them. Not bad if your labor is free. Then I tried a different brand, Febi Bilstein. After about a year in service, the ball joint cup of my right lower straight arm split in half at the casting seam and dropped that corner on to the ground. Thankfully, this happened while approaching a stop sign at about 20mph. There was no warning, no bump in the road, and no prior symptoms, just Bam. It also resulted in a bent spindle and pulled the cv joint out of its socket. It could have been far far worse. It was the one and only time I had it towed to a shop and had them install Meyle arms again because I knew I'd get a couple of years out of them and wasn't sure I'd keep the car. Fast forward another 3 years, and it was driving like a broken shopping cart again.. This time I pried open the wallet and bought 4 Lemfoerder lower arms, TRW inner and Lemfoerder outer tie rod ends. Still waiting to finish the 034 Upper Arms. Had to trim a 1/4" off the long arms as they were too long for my mildly lowered Bilstein/Eibach strut combo, and were pushing me into positive camber (top of wheel tilted out..no bueno). At this point I'd only use OEM brand arms, especially if you are paying someone else to do the work. If money is that tight, I'd strongly suggest that you use oem at least for the lower straight arm the shock mounts to. That one is mission critical, and no fun at all when it breaks.

Part of the reason these cars are cheap to buy now is sellers know they can be expensive to maintain. You can save $ doing the work yourself, but substandard critical parts can get you killed. Trick is, how can you tell which bargain parts are safe/reasonably durable, and which ones aren't?
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Old 06-01-2014, 05:51 AM   #16
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First, I tried Meyle and got about 3 years out of them. Not bad if your labor is free.
Thanks for that Brian...but just 3 yrs!? To me, that would be "bad" and I'd be pissed, unless you're doing about 35K miles a year.

That's the kind of real world testing that would permanently put me off a brand name, no matter what desperate empty claims they make about their "improved" products. I don't think you'd buy a set of Febi Bilstein "HD" arms at this point.

Doctor removes and tosses your good kidney, leaving the bad...2 yrs later (if you lived) you return to have more work done by the same doctor, BECAUSE he went to the trouble of having "left" and "right" tattooed to the backs of his hands...He's an "improved" doctor now...no worries
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Old 06-01-2014, 11:28 AM   #17
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Thanks for that Brian...but just 3 yrs!? To me, that would be "bad" and I'd be pissed, unless you're doing about 35K miles a year.

That's the kind of real world testing that would permanently put me off a brand name, no matter what desperate empty claims they make about their "improved" products. I don't think you'd buy a set of Febi Bilstein "HD" arms at this point.

Doctor removes and tosses your good kidney, leaving the bad...2 yrs later (if you lived) you return to have more work done by the same doctor, BECAUSE he went to the trouble of having "left" and "right" tattooed to the backs of his hands...He's an "improved" doctor now...no worries
I stand by my words, meyle parts are JUNK!
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Old 06-01-2014, 01:06 PM   #18
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Well....if the Febi Bilstein arm failed at speed, it could've been a lifetime part. So that's a good deal, right? Ouch.

The Meyle stuff isn't the best, but it isn't the worst out there either. My 3 years the first time was mostly driving around NYC...not huge mileage, but a pretty tough environment...winters, potholes that could swallow a bus. I was able to limp along a little further on the second set when I moved to NorCal. The roads are much better, but the mileage is higher. If anything, this resulted in a slower progression of the deterioration. We're at a point now where the OEM mfr's are free to sell outside the dealer network (when model is 10 + years old, I think), so now all in you are at about $1,000 for direct from mfr OEM vs. $500 for Meyle...give or take. Not cheap, but not 4x as much like it used to be.

BTW, I spoke with a tech recently at a local get together in the Sacramento area who has pressed in new bushings on OEM arms. And, No, you can't replace the ball joint end without specialty equipment that even the dealer doesn't have.
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Old 06-01-2014, 04:23 PM   #19
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We're at a point now where the OEM mfr's are free to sell outside the dealer network (when model is 10 + years old, I think), so now all in you are at about $1,000 for direct from mfr OEM vs. $500 for Meyle...give or take. Not cheap, but not 4x as much like it used to
How does one know if a manufacturer is "truly" OEM? I find many after market companies claim to be OEM (or better than?).

Is there a list of companies out there that can be trusted to be true Audi OEM?

I'm enjoying the discussion in this thread - worries me to the point where I feel going to the Audi dealership for parts is the only safe choice for suspension parts.
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Old 06-01-2014, 07:11 PM   #20
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How does one know if a manufacturer is "truly" OEM? I find many after market companies claim to be OEM (or better than?).

Is there a list of companies out there that can be trusted to be true Audi OEM?

I'm enjoying the discussion in this thread - worries me to the point where I feel going to the Audi dealership for parts is the only safe choice for suspension parts.
OE is different than OEM.
OE is original equipment, TRW and Lemforder fall in this catagory from what I have gathered.
In fact on the TRW arms you can plainly see where the Audi logo has been ground off.
The same can be seen on the lemforder arms.

-Richard
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Old 06-01-2014, 07:11 PM
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