hillpc

Going to tackle my dead trans (97 A8 quattro); pulling it out according to TozoM8's instructions on Audipages. I got the 6 bolts out but can't seem to slide the driveshaft rearwards to get it apart from the trans output flange. Tried whacking the middle piece (just behind the output flange) with a hammer as recommended at

http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/e...ps11b8c468.jpg

but nothing seems to move. Tried hitting the driveshaft backwards where it expands in diameter about 4" behind the output flange with a hammer but since I understand there's a CV joint at the front of the driveshaft I'm leary of banging the driveshaft backwards harder now. (Maybe it's OK to whack real hard?) I saw a post by another guy who had butchered a wide slot into the parts with a grinder so he could get a screwdriver in there to pry, but that seems a little barbarian. I can't even see an obvious parting line that I could fit a chisel into; it must be recessed inside the trans output flange. (Is the flange cup-shaped to hide the parting surface?)

MikkiJayne

Yes, the flange hides the end of the CV joint. Don't hit the shaft itself rearwards - you'll damage the centre bearing and you really don't want that!

The CV joint is usually stuck to the flange by a rubber or cork gasket. That picture is pretty much spot on tbh. Give it a whack, rotate it, and try again. Don't hit it so hard it damages it though - it shouldn't be that tight. A rubber hammer is ideal if you have one.

Make sure you mark the cv joint and flange relative to each other so you can put them back together the same way. The manual says that is important, although clearly doesn't apply if you change the trans.

hillpc

I'll keep trying that then, though if the flange is cup-shaped that limits the ability for the CV joint to move sideways much when whacked. Another possibility that comes to mind is to try to twist them apart, but I'm not sure I have something that would grip the 2 surfaces tightly enough; pipe wrench and slip joint pliers maybe. Though that might tear the gasket, so I won't try that unless as a last resort.

I'll keep at it. I have marked the parts so they can be reassembled in the the same orientation. Thanks.

silverd2

And remember that, unlike the fixed CVs on the axle shafts, this is an old fashioned "floating" CV joint ... the outer race can move back and forth on the shaft. You should be able to pry it off with a screwdriver or similar.

When changing out the flange seal, I've never had a problem separating the CV from the output flange ... nothing but corrosion or an old gasket holding it there.

Cheers

jfrahm

With the car up on 4 jackstands, I popped it off by starting the engine, putting the car in drive, back into neutral, then gently pressing the brake when the wheels are rotating slowly and only due to their mass (not engine power). This also works very well for rusted together axle flanges.

-Joel.

hillpc

Got it! I must've whacked it with a rubber hammer 100 times and it still wouldn't budge. Tried to get WD-40 and PB Blaster to run into the joint a number of times in between. Then I cut off an air chisel to make a 1/2" diameter hammer out of it and pummeled the CV joint in several places around the circumference. Nothing. Then two pipe wrenches, one at output flange and one at rear of driveshaft; this didn't twist them apart. Tried the car running trick, no dice. More PB Blaster. Then the pneumatic hammer again; this time I noticed that the sheet metal CV joint cover was wiggling back and forth, so at least it was free of the CV joint. I then pushed that sheet metal cover back, exposing the whole CV joint except what was still inside the output flange at the front. Not having to worry about whacking the the sheet metal cover and denting it anymore, a couple of whacks then broke the flange loose. Maybe a better angle because I had more metal available to hit, maybe the solvents did their magic.

Thanks guys.