Sell or fix wifes' A-8 Q?
01-20-2017, 05:11 PM
#1
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Sell or fix wifes' A-8 Q?
On the fence post here folks. Wifes' car: 1999 A8 Q with 130,000 miles. Solid car. She loves it.
Problem: Torque converter engages and disengages under light throttle causing shudder and shake. Don't know if trans has been affected or not. Fluid and filter was changed a few years ago to take care of a shifting issue.
So the big question I have is do I throw money at an 18 year old car, or send it down the road? Other than some minor maintenance issues, rest of the car is excellent.
Your opinion is appreciated.
Problem: Torque converter engages and disengages under light throttle causing shudder and shake. Don't know if trans has been affected or not. Fluid and filter was changed a few years ago to take care of a shifting issue.
So the big question I have is do I throw money at an 18 year old car, or send it down the road? Other than some minor maintenance issues, rest of the car is excellent.
Your opinion is appreciated.
01-21-2017, 01:47 AM
#3
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On the fence post here folks. Wifes' car: 1999 A8 Q with 130,000 miles. Solid car. She loves it.
Problem: Torque converter engages and disengages under light throttle causing shudder and shake. Don't know if trans has been affected or not. Fluid and filter was changed a few years ago to take care of a shifting issue.
So the big question I have is do I throw money at an 18 year old car, or send it down the road? Other than some minor maintenance issues, rest of the car is excellent.
Your opinion is appreciated.
Problem: Torque converter engages and disengages under light throttle causing shudder and shake. Don't know if trans has been affected or not. Fluid and filter was changed a few years ago to take care of a shifting issue.
So the big question I have is do I throw money at an 18 year old car, or send it down the road? Other than some minor maintenance issues, rest of the car is excellent.
Your opinion is appreciated.
Instant Shudder Fixx
01-21-2017, 06:08 AM
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Plus, I don't trust the independents here in Minneapolis as being competent and the dealers really soak you. Closest ZF service center is in Chicago so that won't work.
If I could get away with a repair under $2,500 I'd probably seriously consider it.
01-21-2017, 06:10 AM
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Last I looked there was no trans filler tube under the hood. Is that something a shop would add during a fluid change?
01-21-2017, 07:17 AM
#6
I'd love to go that route but sinking $5,000+ into a car worth <$2,500 is where I feel the pinch.
Plus, I don't trust the independents here in Minneapolis as being competent and the dealers really soak you. Closest ZF service center is in Chicago so that won't work.
If I could get away with a repair under $2,500 I'd probably seriously consider it.
Plus, I don't trust the independents here in Minneapolis as being competent and the dealers really soak you. Closest ZF service center is in Chicago so that won't work.
If I could get away with a repair under $2,500 I'd probably seriously consider it.
If you are reffering to zf in vernon hills they only sell to dealers.
Reparing the car makes sense only if you love it.
01-21-2017, 07:39 AM
#7
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Tough spot you're in, pre-facelift D2 that is in overall good condition but not worth much. It pains me to say because I'm a fan or the D2 body style, but I'd move on to another car. It's not worth the investment. The down side is, you're going to have a hard time finding anything as nice as the D2 for $5K - $10k.
If I were in your position, I'd look at a 2006 - 2009 D3. You can pick-up a "seeming" clean example for $17k - $20. You'd want to get a PPI no matter what the owner says.
Good luck with your decision.
If I were in your position, I'd look at a 2006 - 2009 D3. You can pick-up a "seeming" clean example for $17k - $20. You'd want to get a PPI no matter what the owner says.
Good luck with your decision.
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01-21-2017, 08:37 AM
#8
Mine does the same thing, and has been doing it for the past 50k+ miles. Something I noticed that pretty much eliminates the converter from locking and unlocking while driving down the road is to put the shift lever into manual mode once at speed. Manually selecting 5th gear instead of leaving it in drive stops the problem on my car. If it's any consultation, my car now has 212K miles, and the original transmission.
01-21-2017, 09:25 AM
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Tough spot you're in, pre-facelift D2 that is in overall good condition but not worth much. It pains me to say because I'm a fan or the D2 body style, but I'd move on to another car. It's not worth the investment. The down side is, you're going to have a hard time finding anything as nice as the D2 for $5K - $10k.
If I were in your position, I'd look at a 2006 - 2009 D3. You can pick-up a "seeming" clean example for $17k - $20. You'd want to get a PPI no matter what the owner says.
Good luck with your decision.
If I were in your position, I'd look at a 2006 - 2009 D3. You can pick-up a "seeming" clean example for $17k - $20. You'd want to get a PPI no matter what the owner says.
Good luck with your decision.
I did locate a used TQ locally but haven't talked to them yet. Pretty sure I can find a local shop to slap it in if thats the real problem.
01-21-2017, 09:26 AM
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Mine does the same thing, and has been doing it for the past 50k+ miles. Something I noticed that pretty much eliminates the converter from locking and unlocking while driving down the road is to put the shift lever into manual mode once at speed. Manually selecting 5th gear instead of leaving it in drive stops the problem on my car. If it's any consultation, my car now has 212K miles, and the original transmission.