Bose & B&O System Upgrade Project
10-18-2010, 08:55 PM
#1
AudiWorld Member
Thread Starter
Bose & B&O System Upgrade Project
Bio: I grew up around Music and developed an ear for hearing, playing and recording it. I developed a Technical Side by taking apart things as I grew up which is still a part of me today when it comes to Technology. However, as technology grew, computers, electronics and now fiber optics have all made their way into our automobiles and I can't just simply Swap a Head Unit. Now the Auto Industry has turned to Integration of Various Modules (Units) all connected via Fiber optics which makes it a little trickier than just pulling a Head Unit because there isn't one there anymore. We can't simply disconnect things and throw a Head Unit in when there is no Factory Spot to Install it. They do make remote access units, but when all of your controls for features like Nav, On Star, Telephone..etc are all connected you would lose everything trying to Gut The System just to gain Good Music. So, now the Audio Aftermarket had to change their approach too and they did. Now we simply keep everything as is and add a few items, then we can carry on as usual. You can now change out the speakers and add an amp just as we did before, but we have to integrate a few pieces first in order for the process to work.
The Problem: Paper Cones & Internal Sound Processing from Factory Amps! To keep cost down for the Auto Market, the Audio Equipment Manufacturers (Bose, B&O, Infinity..etc) that are Contracted for Factory Sound Systems used paper products. In fact a quick inexpensive fix is to just get rid of the factory speakers and replace with aftermarket speakers. In short your gain will come from the difference in materials because even the cheapest speakers on the market are made of a Polypropylene Surface and the materials get more exotic from that point producing unmatched sound. However, we face multiple obstacles because there are multiple speakers in multiple locations thru-out the car in multiple shapes and sizes! I think that the #1 problem with Bose is the 2ohm Impedance which limits you to just being able to simply change out speakers and call it a day. There are a few Manufacturers that Produce 2ohm Aftermarket Speakers (Infinity), but for an Audi you'll only be able to replace the Rear Door Components only. That's because it's the only place you'll find a 6.5" Woofer & Tweeter Component and every other speaker location uses uncommon size/shape speakers. You'll find Flat Pancake Style Speakers, Eyelid Style Speakers and so on and so on. So as you can see, you have 2ohm, Low Profile, Low Wattage, Paper Cone Speakers all controlled by the Amp which is doing all of the Internal Processing controlling Curve/Slope, Crossover, and Equalization. Sure, they took speaker placement into consideration, and their technology can make those Paper Cones sound better than they really are, but remove the speakers and plug them up to any other source and you then see what an Audiophile hears. Now let’s get down to it!
What: Factory Integrated Sound System Modification. Removing all of the Trickery, Bells & Whistles to get down to a Custom Sound System Integrated into a Fiber Optic Set-Up. Thereby keeping Complete Control of Existing Units and/or Modules, Features or any Upgrade Incorporated into any Optical System.
Why: To Take Precise Control of your High, Mid, & Low Frequencies outside of the Limitations of Bass & Treble Controls which provide too much of a Broad Frequency Band Sweep. This leads to Muddy Unclean Lows when running Base beyond Flat and too much Distortion when running Treble beyond Flat. Add Volume Output beyond 50% and you’ll notice Degradation of Sound Reproduction. Throw In Surround Sound and there goes Sound Staging! The True Test is to Unplug Every Speaker except the 2 Front Subs and the Rear Sub then play your Music. Unplug the 3 Subs and just play the 9 Speakers to get an Idea of why 12 Speakers can hide Unwanted Sound. In Short: More Speakers with Delays (Surround) may seem to Sound Great, but not when you Isolate! A Good Set of Front & Rear Speakers with an Accurate Sub will run Rings around a Factory System any Day. “No Highs No Lows” “Must Be A Bose”.
Who: Audiophile (Audiophiliacs), or People who want Richer, Cleaner, Smoother and more Accurate Sound Reproduction w/out Coloration and not having to add more Treble, Bass and/or Surround Sound Delays to perceive Good Sounding Music. It shouldn’t matter if you like Rapp, Hip-Hop, Latin, Pop, Country, R&B, Blues, Classical or any class of music you should be able to distinguish a Bell, Triangle, Hi-Hat, Snare, Brush, Bass, etc… These sounds should never Roll-Off Unnaturally as they do with these Factory Systems. So, if the Fizzle of Sound or none of this matters enough then you are not The Who and since you’ve already spent $4K on a Factory System, then by all means do nothing about it. However, if you want Sizzle (Tweets), Snap (Highs), Punch (Mids) and Accurate Bass (Sub) then this Write Up just may be of interest to you.
The Problem: Paper Cones & Internal Sound Processing from Factory Amps! To keep cost down for the Auto Market, the Audio Equipment Manufacturers (Bose, B&O, Infinity..etc) that are Contracted for Factory Sound Systems used paper products. In fact a quick inexpensive fix is to just get rid of the factory speakers and replace with aftermarket speakers. In short your gain will come from the difference in materials because even the cheapest speakers on the market are made of a Polypropylene Surface and the materials get more exotic from that point producing unmatched sound. However, we face multiple obstacles because there are multiple speakers in multiple locations thru-out the car in multiple shapes and sizes! I think that the #1 problem with Bose is the 2ohm Impedance which limits you to just being able to simply change out speakers and call it a day. There are a few Manufacturers that Produce 2ohm Aftermarket Speakers (Infinity), but for an Audi you'll only be able to replace the Rear Door Components only. That's because it's the only place you'll find a 6.5" Woofer & Tweeter Component and every other speaker location uses uncommon size/shape speakers. You'll find Flat Pancake Style Speakers, Eyelid Style Speakers and so on and so on. So as you can see, you have 2ohm, Low Profile, Low Wattage, Paper Cone Speakers all controlled by the Amp which is doing all of the Internal Processing controlling Curve/Slope, Crossover, and Equalization. Sure, they took speaker placement into consideration, and their technology can make those Paper Cones sound better than they really are, but remove the speakers and plug them up to any other source and you then see what an Audiophile hears. Now let’s get down to it!
What: Factory Integrated Sound System Modification. Removing all of the Trickery, Bells & Whistles to get down to a Custom Sound System Integrated into a Fiber Optic Set-Up. Thereby keeping Complete Control of Existing Units and/or Modules, Features or any Upgrade Incorporated into any Optical System.
Why: To Take Precise Control of your High, Mid, & Low Frequencies outside of the Limitations of Bass & Treble Controls which provide too much of a Broad Frequency Band Sweep. This leads to Muddy Unclean Lows when running Base beyond Flat and too much Distortion when running Treble beyond Flat. Add Volume Output beyond 50% and you’ll notice Degradation of Sound Reproduction. Throw In Surround Sound and there goes Sound Staging! The True Test is to Unplug Every Speaker except the 2 Front Subs and the Rear Sub then play your Music. Unplug the 3 Subs and just play the 9 Speakers to get an Idea of why 12 Speakers can hide Unwanted Sound. In Short: More Speakers with Delays (Surround) may seem to Sound Great, but not when you Isolate! A Good Set of Front & Rear Speakers with an Accurate Sub will run Rings around a Factory System any Day. “No Highs No Lows” “Must Be A Bose”.
Who: Audiophile (Audiophiliacs), or People who want Richer, Cleaner, Smoother and more Accurate Sound Reproduction w/out Coloration and not having to add more Treble, Bass and/or Surround Sound Delays to perceive Good Sounding Music. It shouldn’t matter if you like Rapp, Hip-Hop, Latin, Pop, Country, R&B, Blues, Classical or any class of music you should be able to distinguish a Bell, Triangle, Hi-Hat, Snare, Brush, Bass, etc… These sounds should never Roll-Off Unnaturally as they do with these Factory Systems. So, if the Fizzle of Sound or none of this matters enough then you are not The Who and since you’ve already spent $4K on a Factory System, then by all means do nothing about it. However, if you want Sizzle (Tweets), Snap (Highs), Punch (Mids) and Accurate Bass (Sub) then this Write Up just may be of interest to you.
Last edited by williebone; 12-05-2010 at 09:44 AM.
10-23-2010, 11:09 AM
#2
AudiWorld Member
Thread Starter
Chapter 1
Audi Standard Digital Components: Navigation (Voice)/Sat Radio/CD Changer/Radio/Telephone/OnStar/Bose-B&O Amp
Premium Digital Components: TV/DVD/Camera/Bluetooth/AMI
These Digital Components have 1 Thing in common! They all share Audi’s Optical Loop and Component Protection. All Units should have an Optical Connector, Electrical Connector, and if I recall, they should have a Digital Audio Connection. However the case may be, these Components are connected to the Bose/B&O Amp via Digital Output. So, if you are wondering how to add Aftermarket Equipment to a Digital Setup the answer is you can’t! You can only add it via Analog Connection and even though these New Factory Systems are Digital & Optically Connected, they still can’t get away from Analog Speaker Connection. This is where the Door Opens for Aftermarket Equipment which is where the Processor (Summing/Signal Converter) is connected.
<O
</O
Audi Speaker Package: A Typical Audi A8 Speaker Setup will consist of 12 Speakers.
Front Dash: Three Small 3” High/Full-Range Frequency Speakers
Front Door: Two 8” Sub/Low Frequency Speakers
Rear Door: Two 6.5” Full Range Frequency Woofers & Two 1” High Frequency Tweeters
Rear Deck: 12” Subwoofer & Two 2” Rear Fill Speakers
<O</O
This could very depending on Model and/or Year and whether you have Bose or B&O. The Bose Amp is an 8 Channel 800w System according AOA when I started Researching if I recall correctly. However, since I do not have the B&O System I must admit that I didn’t research its Specs. BTW I have auditioned the B&O Sound System anytime I was at the Dealership using the same Music Source that I Tune with. The info is readily available Online if you must know its Output Power and Setup. Regardless of the Output Power, Setup, Number of Speakers or Speaker Placement, you will find some Common Ground between both systems. However, there is Definitely a difference in Output Power and Sound Quality between the 2 Systems with the Edge going to B&O, but give me that money for the B&O and I’ll BMO (Buy My Own) Sound System.
I will keep filling this Thread in as my thoughts come together since it was a year ago that I did this Mod. My hopes are to keep it short and sweet which for me is somethng hard to do. So, this is just to keep it going for those who have PM'd me or are asking directly so they will know that I'm not ignoring them. I will copy and paste from a word doc. and Post so Stay tuned and laters,
"Updated 12-2-10"
Planning: Every Project needs a good Plan before starting, so Research & Planning is the most important thing at the Early Stage of this Upgrade. I will offer a Few Tips to point someone in the right direction, but it will all boil down to Time & Money. Meaning that one can do simple cost effective things to enhance their music enjoyment or they can go all out if their time and money will allow it. The main thing is to get a Note Book to write everything down for the project which includes: Measurements, Equipment, Price, Materials, Specification, Diagram Layout, Color Codes and so on. These notes will become very important when it’s time to Order/Purchase, Cut, Apply, Install, Connect, Test & etc. So, go get your Project Book and your Laptop and kick back.
Where To Start: At this point there are several things to determine your Starting Point: Sound Deadening, Speaker Replacement, Wiring, Fabrication (Speaker Pods, Sub Box, Equip. Rack), Space, Audio Equipment, Tools (Basic, Torx Set, Electric Tools, Wire Stripper & Cutter, etc), & Materials (Speaker Wire, RCAs, Power/Ground Wire, Power Distribution Block, Fuse or Relay Switch, Electrical Tape, Wire Caps or Splice Connectors, Quick Disconnect Plugs, etc). The last thing you want to do is have to run out to get something because you didn’t plan for it and I’m speaking from experience. Remember the Note Book helps to keep everything in front of you when it’s time to shop.
<O
So, let’s say that you want to just improve what you’ve got. The best place to start is the Doors by Adding Sound Dampening Material which will make a Very Noticeable Difference in Sound Isolation. Doing this will cut out unwanted Road Noise, cut Speaker Resonance and increase the overall quality in what you hear. I added 4 Sheets to the Tin Panel & 2 Sheets to the Inner Door Shell itself and added 4 Sheets to the Rear Parcel Shelf. After extensive research I went with Hifi Connection's Audio Barrier since it's cost was less & quality was better than the Top Brands out there.
Direct Link: http://www.hifisoundconnection.com/Shop/Control/fp/cat/358850/SFV/30046/set_num/2
If you want to go a Step Further, then the next place to improve would be to add a Subwoofer. These 2 Modifications are the easiest to Upgrade since it requires no additional Equipment outside of 1 Mono Amp w/Line Level Inputs. You are simply adding 1 Subwoofer without the need to Run New Wiring. Most Mono Amps will have an External Control **** to control Output which when added to the Bose Sub will give flexibility in Enhancing the Bose Sub at Will. These two improvements alone will be Satisfying for any Average Listener and will be the Starting Platform for all Future Upgrades. I’m about Space Saving so I opted for a 10" Shallow Mount Subwoofer which required only 4” of Depth for a Box and of course that was Minimum Space Requirement. My overall box design was 15” high x 15” wide x 5” Deep. However, because of the Contour of the Back Wall of the Seat, I built the Outside Walls First & Sloped it from 6” Top to 9” Bottom and Sanded it creating a slight curve to fit the Contour.
<O
So, if you can imagine, the Actual Box that houses the Subwoofer itself is a Perfect Vertical & Horizonal Square @ 5” in Depth, but at an Inset giving the Sub room to move with a Lip around the Front of the Box. When viewing from the Side you may think that it is Sloped, but from the Front you'll see that it's Vertical. I added Rubber Insulation around the Lip giving it a Seal when pushed up against the Ski Sack Compartment and Height made for a Perfect Wedge not allowing any movement of the Box. I wanted the Same Concept (Space Saving) for the Sub Mono Amp so I opted for a Stealth Amp from SoundStream which are Stackable in my case since I went all the Way Out on this Project. Yes, I could’ve spent a lot more for larger Amps and I have an Expensive Large JL Audi Amp on hand, but Loud and Booming is not my Taste. I also opted for a Sealed Enclosure since I’m Old School and love Tight Smooth Bottom Ends and I’m talking music here. Also, because I chose to Fire the Subwoofer Directly Thru the Ski Thru Compartment, I was unable to use any Ported Designed Sub Box.
Here's a Link to understading Audio and including Box Calculator, Building a System, Building a Box, Choosing Equipment, etc.. Just click on the Contents Tab to the Right: http://www.bcae1.com/
There is nothing major as far as Complexity for these 2 Projects other than:
Removing Door Panels (easy to do) / Removing Ski Bag & Covering w/Color Matched Grill Cloth (easy to do) / Removing a few trunk panels / Tracing the contour of the back wall inside the trunk (easy to do) / Measuring trunk width (36”) & height (15”) / Building a box based on your measurements and subwoofer’s recommended cubic feet of airspace / Covering box with matching color carpet / Choosing an Amp / Connect a power wire from battery and ground wire from any bolt / Connect a speaker wire directly to the Bose Sub which then connects to the amp’s line level input / Connect a speaker wire from amp to new Subwoofer. Building a Sub Box is not Rocket Science but does require proper materials, a good driver (subwoofer), a good amp, and the ability to follow directions. There are a host of links with a wealth of information which is how I did it. So, if I can do it then anyone can do it because there is nothing special about me other than the fact that I am driven. I will however provide some of the resources that I used along the way.
<O
I will insist that you invest in the Bentley Service Manual and Trim Removal Tools from ECSTuning.com so that you become familiar with Trim & Panel Removal. At some point you will need to buy a Battery Charger which I find is a Must Have anyway when I’m doing other things such as working with Vag.Com (VCDS) etc. It is necessary when Tuning a System unless you’re out somewhere with the Engine running all of the time during this process.
Bentley: http://www.bentleypublishers.com/audi/repair-information/audi-a8-a8l-s8-repair-manual-2004-2009-ebahn.html
Trim Tool: http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/Trim_Removal_Tools/ES517779/
Charger: http://www.blackanddecker.com/Product-Print/BC40EWB.aspx ($70 @ Walmart)
(Note) When using any Charger, do not connect Ground Cable directly to Battery Ground Post! Connect Ground Cable to Battery Regulator Module Ground Pole! This connects the Energy Management System and lets the System know when the Battery is Fully Charged. The System Cuts Power to Non-Essential Components and will not know when Battrery is Charged if not used!
The Next Update will be covering the more advanced aproach which is the Mod that I've done!
Note: I have made these Mods with a Few Things In Mind! I wanted it Portable (Unplug & Carry) so that I could Disconnet and Repair/Change/Service. So I used Quick Disconnect Plugs in and everywhere. This way if I want to pull the Sub, Amp Rack, or Disconnect Power, it is just a Snap and it's done. I used a 120 amp Relay Switch connected to Power Line to turn everything off so that Service Tech aren't Auditioning the System besides being a Safety Switch. I also did Little To No Alterations so that the Car will be back to Factory Equipment when it's time to sell. This includes just Tapping Wires instead of Cutting Wires and I won't mind leaving the Wiring that I ran, but it would be nothing to Pull it if I want to. Just a few things to consider when Purchasing Materials and there is nothing Permanent about this Mod. Remember a Good Plan and Note Book! Laters,
"Edit" I have started writing in Word.doc and will Edit, Copy & Paste as I go. So as you can see I have started to get into the Nuts & Bolts of this Audio Mod. Stay tuned and keep checking back!
Premium Digital Components: TV/DVD/Camera/Bluetooth/AMI
These Digital Components have 1 Thing in common! They all share Audi’s Optical Loop and Component Protection. All Units should have an Optical Connector, Electrical Connector, and if I recall, they should have a Digital Audio Connection. However the case may be, these Components are connected to the Bose/B&O Amp via Digital Output. So, if you are wondering how to add Aftermarket Equipment to a Digital Setup the answer is you can’t! You can only add it via Analog Connection and even though these New Factory Systems are Digital & Optically Connected, they still can’t get away from Analog Speaker Connection. This is where the Door Opens for Aftermarket Equipment which is where the Processor (Summing/Signal Converter) is connected.
<O
</OAudi Speaker Package: A Typical Audi A8 Speaker Setup will consist of 12 Speakers.
Front Dash: Three Small 3” High/Full-Range Frequency Speakers
Front Door: Two 8” Sub/Low Frequency Speakers
Rear Door: Two 6.5” Full Range Frequency Woofers & Two 1” High Frequency Tweeters
Rear Deck: 12” Subwoofer & Two 2” Rear Fill Speakers
<O
</OThis could very depending on Model and/or Year and whether you have Bose or B&O. The Bose Amp is an 8 Channel 800w System according AOA when I started Researching if I recall correctly. However, since I do not have the B&O System I must admit that I didn’t research its Specs. BTW I have auditioned the B&O Sound System anytime I was at the Dealership using the same Music Source that I Tune with. The info is readily available Online if you must know its Output Power and Setup. Regardless of the Output Power, Setup, Number of Speakers or Speaker Placement, you will find some Common Ground between both systems. However, there is Definitely a difference in Output Power and Sound Quality between the 2 Systems with the Edge going to B&O, but give me that money for the B&O and I’ll BMO (Buy My Own) Sound System.
I will keep filling this Thread in as my thoughts come together since it was a year ago that I did this Mod. My hopes are to keep it short and sweet which for me is somethng hard to do. So, this is just to keep it going for those who have PM'd me or are asking directly so they will know that I'm not ignoring them. I will copy and paste from a word doc. and Post so Stay tuned and laters,
"Updated 12-2-10"
Planning: Every Project needs a good Plan before starting, so Research & Planning is the most important thing at the Early Stage of this Upgrade. I will offer a Few Tips to point someone in the right direction, but it will all boil down to Time & Money. Meaning that one can do simple cost effective things to enhance their music enjoyment or they can go all out if their time and money will allow it. The main thing is to get a Note Book to write everything down for the project which includes: Measurements, Equipment, Price, Materials, Specification, Diagram Layout, Color Codes and so on. These notes will become very important when it’s time to Order/Purchase, Cut, Apply, Install, Connect, Test & etc. So, go get your Project Book and your Laptop and kick back.
Where To Start: At this point there are several things to determine your Starting Point: Sound Deadening, Speaker Replacement, Wiring, Fabrication (Speaker Pods, Sub Box, Equip. Rack), Space, Audio Equipment, Tools (Basic, Torx Set, Electric Tools, Wire Stripper & Cutter, etc), & Materials (Speaker Wire, RCAs, Power/Ground Wire, Power Distribution Block, Fuse or Relay Switch, Electrical Tape, Wire Caps or Splice Connectors, Quick Disconnect Plugs, etc). The last thing you want to do is have to run out to get something because you didn’t plan for it and I’m speaking from experience. Remember the Note Book helps to keep everything in front of you when it’s time to shop.
<O
So, let’s say that you want to just improve what you’ve got. The best place to start is the Doors by Adding Sound Dampening Material which will make a Very Noticeable Difference in Sound Isolation. Doing this will cut out unwanted Road Noise, cut Speaker Resonance and increase the overall quality in what you hear. I added 4 Sheets to the Tin Panel & 2 Sheets to the Inner Door Shell itself and added 4 Sheets to the Rear Parcel Shelf. After extensive research I went with Hifi Connection's Audio Barrier since it's cost was less & quality was better than the Top Brands out there.
Direct Link: http://www.hifisoundconnection.com/Shop/Control/fp/cat/358850/SFV/30046/set_num/2
If you want to go a Step Further, then the next place to improve would be to add a Subwoofer. These 2 Modifications are the easiest to Upgrade since it requires no additional Equipment outside of 1 Mono Amp w/Line Level Inputs. You are simply adding 1 Subwoofer without the need to Run New Wiring. Most Mono Amps will have an External Control **** to control Output which when added to the Bose Sub will give flexibility in Enhancing the Bose Sub at Will. These two improvements alone will be Satisfying for any Average Listener and will be the Starting Platform for all Future Upgrades. I’m about Space Saving so I opted for a 10" Shallow Mount Subwoofer which required only 4” of Depth for a Box and of course that was Minimum Space Requirement. My overall box design was 15” high x 15” wide x 5” Deep. However, because of the Contour of the Back Wall of the Seat, I built the Outside Walls First & Sloped it from 6” Top to 9” Bottom and Sanded it creating a slight curve to fit the Contour.
<O
So, if you can imagine, the Actual Box that houses the Subwoofer itself is a Perfect Vertical & Horizonal Square @ 5” in Depth, but at an Inset giving the Sub room to move with a Lip around the Front of the Box. When viewing from the Side you may think that it is Sloped, but from the Front you'll see that it's Vertical. I added Rubber Insulation around the Lip giving it a Seal when pushed up against the Ski Sack Compartment and Height made for a Perfect Wedge not allowing any movement of the Box. I wanted the Same Concept (Space Saving) for the Sub Mono Amp so I opted for a Stealth Amp from SoundStream which are Stackable in my case since I went all the Way Out on this Project. Yes, I could’ve spent a lot more for larger Amps and I have an Expensive Large JL Audi Amp on hand, but Loud and Booming is not my Taste. I also opted for a Sealed Enclosure since I’m Old School and love Tight Smooth Bottom Ends and I’m talking music here. Also, because I chose to Fire the Subwoofer Directly Thru the Ski Thru Compartment, I was unable to use any Ported Designed Sub Box.
Here's a Link to understading Audio and including Box Calculator, Building a System, Building a Box, Choosing Equipment, etc.. Just click on the Contents Tab to the Right: http://www.bcae1.com/
There is nothing major as far as Complexity for these 2 Projects other than:
Removing Door Panels (easy to do) / Removing Ski Bag & Covering w/Color Matched Grill Cloth (easy to do) / Removing a few trunk panels / Tracing the contour of the back wall inside the trunk (easy to do) / Measuring trunk width (36”) & height (15”) / Building a box based on your measurements and subwoofer’s recommended cubic feet of airspace / Covering box with matching color carpet / Choosing an Amp / Connect a power wire from battery and ground wire from any bolt / Connect a speaker wire directly to the Bose Sub which then connects to the amp’s line level input / Connect a speaker wire from amp to new Subwoofer. Building a Sub Box is not Rocket Science but does require proper materials, a good driver (subwoofer), a good amp, and the ability to follow directions. There are a host of links with a wealth of information which is how I did it. So, if I can do it then anyone can do it because there is nothing special about me other than the fact that I am driven. I will however provide some of the resources that I used along the way.
<O
I will insist that you invest in the Bentley Service Manual and Trim Removal Tools from ECSTuning.com so that you become familiar with Trim & Panel Removal. At some point you will need to buy a Battery Charger which I find is a Must Have anyway when I’m doing other things such as working with Vag.Com (VCDS) etc. It is necessary when Tuning a System unless you’re out somewhere with the Engine running all of the time during this process.
Bentley: http://www.bentleypublishers.com/audi/repair-information/audi-a8-a8l-s8-repair-manual-2004-2009-ebahn.html
Trim Tool: http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/Trim_Removal_Tools/ES517779/
Charger: http://www.blackanddecker.com/Product-Print/BC40EWB.aspx ($70 @ Walmart)
(Note) When using any Charger, do not connect Ground Cable directly to Battery Ground Post! Connect Ground Cable to Battery Regulator Module Ground Pole! This connects the Energy Management System and lets the System know when the Battery is Fully Charged. The System Cuts Power to Non-Essential Components and will not know when Battrery is Charged if not used!
The Next Update will be covering the more advanced aproach which is the Mod that I've done!
Note: I have made these Mods with a Few Things In Mind! I wanted it Portable (Unplug & Carry) so that I could Disconnet and Repair/Change/Service. So I used Quick Disconnect Plugs in and everywhere. This way if I want to pull the Sub, Amp Rack, or Disconnect Power, it is just a Snap and it's done. I used a 120 amp Relay Switch connected to Power Line to turn everything off so that Service Tech aren't Auditioning the System besides being a Safety Switch. I also did Little To No Alterations so that the Car will be back to Factory Equipment when it's time to sell. This includes just Tapping Wires instead of Cutting Wires and I won't mind leaving the Wiring that I ran, but it would be nothing to Pull it if I want to. Just a few things to consider when Purchasing Materials and there is nothing Permanent about this Mod. Remember a Good Plan and Note Book! Laters,
"Edit" I have started writing in Word.doc and will Edit, Copy & Paste as I go. So as you can see I have started to get into the Nuts & Bolts of this Audio Mod. Stay tuned and keep checking back!
Last edited by williebone; 12-09-2010 at 04:31 AM.
10-24-2010, 09:09 AM
#3
AudiWorld Senior Member
"No highs no lows it must be BOSE"? Let me preface my remarks by saying that I listen to my music at a moderate volume level...the volume ***** in the A8 have no stops so I cant quantify as to a percentage of maximum volume.
To me the BOSE DSP sounds very rich, by which I mean has terrific bass,and I have the Bass setting only a bit past half. Any aftermarket high-power system I have listened to is not rich at moderate volume. They can sound good only at higher volume than I would ever need. Will the changes you plan retain the moderate/low volume performance of the BOSE?
And as for the highs,perhaps it is my relative lack of audio sophistication ,but I find that the BOSE has wonderfully delicate and defined brilliance. And I like the imaging BOSE created to integrate the music with the cabin.
If your mods can make all these good things even better then I will be very anxious to copy your work!
To me the BOSE DSP sounds very rich, by which I mean has terrific bass,and I have the Bass setting only a bit past half. Any aftermarket high-power system I have listened to is not rich at moderate volume. They can sound good only at higher volume than I would ever need. Will the changes you plan retain the moderate/low volume performance of the BOSE?
And as for the highs,perhaps it is my relative lack of audio sophistication ,but I find that the BOSE has wonderfully delicate and defined brilliance. And I like the imaging BOSE created to integrate the music with the cabin.
If your mods can make all these good things even better then I will be very anxious to copy your work!
Last edited by awdinut; 10-24-2010 at 04:43 PM.
10-24-2010, 01:13 PM
#4
AudiWorld Member
Thread Starter
To me the BOSE DSP sounds very rich, by which I mean has terrific bass,and I have the Bass setting only a bit past half. Any aftermarket high-power system I have listened to is not rich at moderate volume. They can sound good only at higher volume than I would ever need. Will the changes you plan retain the moderate/low volume performance of the BOSE?
When I spoke about the "Who" this was for, I knew that for the most part, this isn't for everyone because Bose is Good Enough for the Majority. I rate this Mod on a Scale of 1 to 10 with 10 the Most Difficult a 7.5 because the work that it takes to get Better Sound Quality require Time, Patience, Skill and Math! I'm glad that you have Inquired as much as you did because hopefully I gave enough Response so others with the same questions will allow me to Focuss on the Write Up and not take this Thread into a Question Answer Session until I'm Finished. This way the Thread won't turn into a Thousand Pages. I only have so much time during the work day to write and when I'm home I try not to take time away from the Family or stay up too late at night. Thanks and stay tuned! Laters,
10-24-2010, 06:03 PM
#5
AudiWorld Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 141
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Never understood how self proclaimed "audiophile" and automobiles go together. You know, road noise, rumble, wind noise, squeaks and rattles, poor sources.
Anyway, firm believer that "if" someone knows what "audiophile" means, the do it at home in a controlled inviorment, not in a car.
JMHO
Now, I am going back to hear side two of "A Farewell to Kings" on my Denon turntable. BTW, not an "Audiophile" here, at least not in my opinion since no one know what that really means these days.
Anyway, firm believer that "if" someone knows what "audiophile" means, the do it at home in a controlled inviorment, not in a car.
JMHO
Now, I am going back to hear side two of "A Farewell to Kings" on my Denon turntable. BTW, not an "Audiophile" here, at least not in my opinion since no one know what that really means these days.
10-25-2010, 03:58 PM
#6
AudiWorld Member
Thread Starter
I would say that this is not about an audiophile, it's about a Mod! But I'm not going to just so that I can keep it Clutter Free until I've ended the Write Up! Thanks for the read and take care. Laters,
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10-27-2010, 02:42 PM
#8
AudiWorld Member
Thread Starter
Yep! Adequate is a good way to put it which will be the case for most A8 owners. This Mod is definately for those who want Improvement and hopefully I can shed some light on the How To. My hopes are to be able to realy focus on this Mod Write Up this weekend. Thanks & laters,
10-28-2010, 01:45 PM
#9
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The quality of the BOSE systems seems to vary from model to model.
I think the system in my A8 sounds better than the one in my mom's A6, but not as good as the BOSE system sounded in my last S500. It's a decent system for a car, but unless you park and listen with the engine off, it seems to me that any system will be compromised in a car. Once I'm underway and my ears have attuned to the road noise, I can't hear the subtleties anyway.
I am intrigued with your project, however, and look forward to reading about the outcome.
I think the system in my A8 sounds better than the one in my mom's A6, but not as good as the BOSE system sounded in my last S500. It's a decent system for a car, but unless you park and listen with the engine off, it seems to me that any system will be compromised in a car. Once I'm underway and my ears have attuned to the road noise, I can't hear the subtleties anyway.
I am intrigued with your project, however, and look forward to reading about the outcome.
10-28-2010, 02:50 PM
#10
AudiWorld Member
Thread Starter
The quality of the BOSE systems seems to vary from model to model.
I think the system in my A8 sounds better than the one in my mom's A6, but not as good as the BOSE system sounded in my last S500. It's a decent system for a car, but unless you park and listen with the engine off, it seems to me that any system will be compromised in a car. Once I'm underway and my ears have attuned to the road noise, I can't hear the subtleties anyway.
I am intrigued with your project, however, and look forward to reading about the outcome.
I think the system in my A8 sounds better than the one in my mom's A6, but not as good as the BOSE system sounded in my last S500. It's a decent system for a car, but unless you park and listen with the engine off, it seems to me that any system will be compromised in a car. Once I'm underway and my ears have attuned to the road noise, I can't hear the subtleties anyway.
I am intrigued with your project, however, and look forward to reading about the outcome.