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OK - Got everything out - except the last lower forward control arm off the knuckle. Take a look at the pictures. You would think I could just use a hammer on the bad knuckle right next to the where the bushing goes through the bad knuckle and the knuckle would be free (as the bolt threads face down. But I wanted to check with you guys before doing anything. everything else is free. What is the best, safest way of freeing the knuclkle without doing any damage to the control arm bushing? Thanks for any help
This shows the knuckle turned clockwise, so theoretically if I tap that rear control arm the whole knuckle should come free - which it may but ut seems to be stuck. I doused with PB break free
Sorry, not tap on the rear control arm, but the section right there in the front of the picture on the knuckle that the rear control arm goes through.......
You are in the unusual case where that whole steering knuckle is sacrificial. (Unless I'm missing something?) Normally you need to preserve it of course so hammering would be off limits. Figure it is basically the typical taper ball joint connection where you just need enough force to pop it. Probably has a little aluminum to iron metal interaction, but minor.
I would first firmly support that remaining lower front control arm from below. You really need it firm to get the hammer blow directed into the taper breaking and not just soaked up in the arm moving. Could be a jack stand with a flat top and a block of wood on top. Could be a 2x4 you cut to length (like a foot or so) and then so a simple "V" in the top to nest it in. Point is any hammering will of course transmit right to that arm if you don't support it to resist the force.
Yes hammering on that other point where the rear control arm attached likely makes sense. If you hit it there it will tend to torque/twist if you can't support the knuckle from lateral movement. You could also try up at the top side near the upper arm/pinch bolt points--where force is more vertically aligned to the target ball joint to break--if you are comfortable staying away from the fender.
And yes, in this case I would just go for max momentum like a basic good sized hand steel sledge, as opposed to something cute like a dead blow weighted plastic type mallet.
The other different approach is some kind of breaker tool on the ball joint. I tried that on my C5 4.2 and got no where. There I was changing the arm, so eventually I took the whole assembly out and whacked on the ball joint stud in a vise while supporting the steering knuckle. Conceptually the same as what you are doing force wise, just applied to the "other" component that I was discarding in my situation.
Even before your experience, I am changing the pinch bolts with this kind of suspension work. I am also applying anti seize paste now--not to the threads but to the shaft generally.
All went back together smoothly. Re-did the tightening of all bolts per Mishars suggestion of tightening with tires off, suspension in loaded/normal mode via jacks under control arms, and all seemed good. Took for a test drive before going to get aligned and getting a noise on right front side...Sounds like something loose - but nothing is. Kind of a deep rattle - took the tire off again, and everything looks fine. Any thoughts on what to look for. Can someone confirm torque required on upper control arms? Thanks!
Did you replace the U/sway bar links that go from the end of the sway bar to the front lower arm? That would be the most likely next place for noise, IF everything else is secure. If never replaced, by 110K they will often be worn/cracked/distorted. After that would be the sway bar bushings, which would require a new sway bar since they are molded on. Neither of those two affect alignment if you go ahead w/ that. Other low probability possibles are tie rod ends (inner or outer), or steering rack adjustment.
Did you replace the U/sway bar links that go from the end of the sway bar to the front lower arm? That would be the most likely next place for noise, IF everything else is secure. If never replaced, by 110K they will often be worn/cracked/distorted. After that would be the sway bar bushings, which would require a new sway bar since they are molded on. Neither of those two affect alignment if you go ahead w/ that. Other low probability possibles are tie rod ends (inner or outer), or steering rack adjustment.
Thanks - I did replace the sway bar links at the same time with the OEM links...Its like a muffled clunk coming from what sounds like right front side when hitting road anomalies. Also bought new tires again as the ones I put on 10K ago were worn bad on inside from control arms. Then had all wheels balanced and another 4 wheel alignment. Car definitely drives better, but nowhere like I had hoped with all this and new controls arms/busings - and now this noise....
So next on the list would be drop the sway bar and see if the bushings are cracked/falling apart like in Mister Bally's pictures. Seems more an issue on early year ones, but modest labor to check.
After that I would try tightening the steering rack adjustment. I just helped another board member with that, who likewise had already done the control arms and links. His was older but similar miles to yours. We did not check his sway bar bushings (shop was doing that sort of work), but adjusting the rack did get out a fair amount of the rattle from before to after. His was a rattle that got going when you went over a bunch of Bott's Dots that were closely and repetitively spaced.
03-04-2015, 11:27 AM
. All pitfalls avoided. Knuckle comes tomorrow. Hopefully all goes back together smoothly. Thanks for the insights and guidance
