i thought the ATF was lifetime
05-22-2015, 06:40 AM
#71
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Gearbox
♦ Rules for cleanliness when working on the automatic gearbox
⇒ page 11
♦ If the gearbox has been removed from the vehicle and the
flange shaft (left-side) then removed, the torque converter
must be secured using the support bridge -30 - 211 A- to pre‐
vent it from falling out.
♦ Use only ATF or vaseline on all parts running in ATF. Other
lubricants will cause malfunction of the gearbox hydraulics.
♦ After the gearbox has been overhauled it should be installed
and operated as soon as possible to prevent any corrosion
forming on the new components.
♦ After installation, fill up and check all fluid levels. For capacities
and specifications refer to ⇒ Automatic gearbox 09E, fourwheel
drive; Rep. gr. 00 .
Procedure if ATF is dirty
If the ATF and related components are very dirty (caused by worn
clutch linings):
♦ Dismantle and clean complete gearbox.
♦ Dismantle and check all clutches.
♦ Renew torque converter (cannot be cleaned).
♦ Renew mechatronic unit (cannot be cleaned).
♦ Clean ATF lines and ATF cooler and renew ATF strainer.
O-rings, seals, oil seals and gaskets
♦ Always renew O-rings, seals, oil seals and gaskets.
♦ After removing gaskets and seals, always inspect the contact
surface on the housing or shaft for burrs resulting from removal
or for other signs of damage.
♦ The open side of the oil seal should face the side containing
the fluid.
♦ Lightly lubricate the outer circumference and sealing lip of oil
seals with ATF before installing.
♦ Lightly lubricate O-rings with ATF or vaseline before installa‐
tion to prevent them getting crushed during assembly.
♦ Use only ATF or vaseline on all parts running in ATF. Other
lubricants will cause malfunction of the gearbox hydraulics.
♦ When installing a new oil seal, position the seal such that the
sealing lip does not contact the shaft in the same place as the
old seal (make use of installation depth tolerances).
♦ Completely remove old gaskets, clean sealing surfaces thor‐
oughly and renew gaskets.
Nuts, bolts
♦ Slacken bolts in reverse sequence to the specified tightening
sequence.
♦ Nuts and bolts which secure covers and housings should be
loosened and tightened in diagonal sequence and in stages if
no tightening sequence is specified.
♦ The tightening torques stated apply to non-oiled nuts and
bolts.
♦ Always renew self-locking bolts and nuts.
05-22-2015, 07:42 AM
#73
05-29-2015, 08:43 AM
#74
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nice shop for those in Cardiff, Wales
DATSC - Deutsche Autoteknik South Wales Cardiff
Common ZF Transmission Faults
Water ingress to the transmission cooler. Whilst this is not a direct transmission problem, there will be side effects. Generally located within the factory radiator on most cars, including vehicles that use ZF transmissions (particularly the ZF Hp6. When the internal cooler develops a small leak, the anti-freeze in the radiator gets heated and pressurised which then forces water through the hole in the leaky transmission cooler. Water in the transmission unit is very bad for the internal components obviously. A milky emulsion will form if in the transmission fluid if contamination has occurred.
Service interval recommendations for automatic transmissions tend to be too long (particularly BMW, who rate the fluid as lifetime!). Realistically, this is ridiculous, define lifetime for a start! It has been proven that the fluid begins to degrade at approximately 70,000 miles. Generally, we find that if we do a fluid flush and filter change at this sort of mileage, the oil is discoloured and most definitely ready for renewal, this simple (albeit relatively costly due to the ZF fluid prices) act of maintenance helps to keep your transmission free of faults and resilient to excessive wear and tear. Nothing lasts forever, but it can be encouraged to maximum longevity with a little bit of TLC.
Very often, if you have the transmission serviced at a generic garage, they won't have access to the technical data for your ZF transmission and will use the standard Dexron fluid instead. ZF HP boxes require the specific ZF Lifeguard fluid which is not a common fluid and few garages would stock this as standard. Most "mechanics" don't really understand how an automatic transmission unit works, never mind the importance of the fluid and its required composition.
Fail Safe Mode or Limp Mode will be activated if the transmission ECU detects any performance outside of the manufacturer specified tolerances. This can also be an indication of a transmission ECU fault or adaption value failure.
Common ZF Transmission Faults
Water ingress to the transmission cooler. Whilst this is not a direct transmission problem, there will be side effects. Generally located within the factory radiator on most cars, including vehicles that use ZF transmissions (particularly the ZF Hp6. When the internal cooler develops a small leak, the anti-freeze in the radiator gets heated and pressurised which then forces water through the hole in the leaky transmission cooler. Water in the transmission unit is very bad for the internal components obviously. A milky emulsion will form if in the transmission fluid if contamination has occurred.
Service interval recommendations for automatic transmissions tend to be too long (particularly BMW, who rate the fluid as lifetime!). Realistically, this is ridiculous, define lifetime for a start! It has been proven that the fluid begins to degrade at approximately 70,000 miles. Generally, we find that if we do a fluid flush and filter change at this sort of mileage, the oil is discoloured and most definitely ready for renewal, this simple (albeit relatively costly due to the ZF fluid prices) act of maintenance helps to keep your transmission free of faults and resilient to excessive wear and tear. Nothing lasts forever, but it can be encouraged to maximum longevity with a little bit of TLC.
Very often, if you have the transmission serviced at a generic garage, they won't have access to the technical data for your ZF transmission and will use the standard Dexron fluid instead. ZF HP boxes require the specific ZF Lifeguard fluid which is not a common fluid and few garages would stock this as standard. Most "mechanics" don't really understand how an automatic transmission unit works, never mind the importance of the fluid and its required composition.
Fail Safe Mode or Limp Mode will be activated if the transmission ECU detects any performance outside of the manufacturer specified tolerances. This can also be an indication of a transmission ECU fault or adaption value failure.
05-29-2015, 11:52 AM
#75
AudiWorld Super User
DATSC - Deutsche Autoteknik South Wales Cardiff
Very often, if you have the transmission serviced at a generic garage, they won't have access to the technical data for your ZF transmission and will use the standard Dexron fluid instead. ZF HP boxes require the specific ZF Lifeguard fluid which is not a common fluid and few garages would stock this as standard. Most "mechanics" don't really understand how an automatic transmission unit works, never mind the importance of the fluid and its required composition.
Very often, if you have the transmission serviced at a generic garage, they won't have access to the technical data for your ZF transmission and will use the standard Dexron fluid instead. ZF HP boxes require the specific ZF Lifeguard fluid which is not a common fluid and few garages would stock this as standard. Most "mechanics" don't really understand how an automatic transmission unit works, never mind the importance of the fluid and its required composition.
05-29-2015, 01:52 PM
#76
AudiWorld Super User
I suspect I lost the head gasket in my last car because the folks who changed the water pump, put in "blue" antifreeze instead of the Halvoline orange (permanent) that I used. The mixing of the two is known to eat gaskets.
And that's from a "competent" shop with a 50-year rep.
So, do make sure of exactly what your shop will be using for all fluids. Often the guy who changes fluids is a "b line" mechanic with the least experience and no idea that "close" is only good enough in horseshoes.
AFAIK the folks who actually make the fluids, all say to change them. Of course that increases their sales, but sometimes you just have to rely on faith.
And that's from a "competent" shop with a 50-year rep.
So, do make sure of exactly what your shop will be using for all fluids. Often the guy who changes fluids is a "b line" mechanic with the least experience and no idea that "close" is only good enough in horseshoes.
AFAIK the folks who actually make the fluids, all say to change them. Of course that increases their sales, but sometimes you just have to rely on faith.
05-29-2015, 11:54 PM
#77
AudiWorld Junior Member
Lifetime ATM?
No such thing... Whose lifetime, the car's, your's, 1st owner of the vehicle only?
I think even Audi has back-pedaled on the issue of "lifetime" ATF fluid... Over time, even fluids will "wear out", and the various chemical properties that make the fluid do its thing, may not!
Good rule of thumb with newer Audi's, is to replace the tranny fluid every 50 to 60K miles. In my old 1990 Audi, I change it about every 30K miles. A family member told me that he had over 245,000 miles on his 1999 Audi A6 automatic transmission and changed the fluid about every 60K miles.
It's cheap insurance... A couple of hundred bucks versus many thousands for a rebuilt tranny...
I think even Audi has back-pedaled on the issue of "lifetime" ATF fluid... Over time, even fluids will "wear out", and the various chemical properties that make the fluid do its thing, may not!
Good rule of thumb with newer Audi's, is to replace the tranny fluid every 50 to 60K miles. In my old 1990 Audi, I change it about every 30K miles. A family member told me that he had over 245,000 miles on his 1999 Audi A6 automatic transmission and changed the fluid about every 60K miles.
It's cheap insurance... A couple of hundred bucks versus many thousands for a rebuilt tranny...
05-30-2015, 04:11 AM
#78
AudiWorld Senior Member
That, 245K is impressive
Good rule of thumb with newer Audi's, is to replace the tranny fluid every 50 to 60K miles. In my old 1990 Audi, I change it about every 30K miles. A family member told me that he had over 245,000 miles on his 1999 Audi A6 automatic transmission and changed the fluid about every 60K miles
Also I THINK the fluid is overrated. My XJR was refilled with Pentosin ATF1 prior to purchase. Works as smooth as the A8. I would have used LG6, but it was done before I could purchase enough.
I do not recommend using it, but a 5 liter jug of ATF1 is 50.00 at Amazon.
05-30-2015, 08:03 AM
#79
AudiWorld Wiseguy
Check this thread out...
No such thing... Whose lifetime, the car's, your's, 1st owner of the vehicle only?
I think even Audi has back-pedaled on the issue of "lifetime" ATF fluid... Over time, even fluids will "wear out", and the various chemical properties that make the fluid do its thing, may not!
Good rule of thumb with newer Audi's, is to replace the tranny fluid every 50 to 60K miles. In my old 1990 Audi, I change it about every 30K miles. A family member told me that he had over 245,000 miles on his 1999 Audi A6 automatic transmission and changed the fluid about every 60K miles.
It's cheap insurance... A couple of hundred bucks versus many thousands for a rebuilt tranny...
I think even Audi has back-pedaled on the issue of "lifetime" ATF fluid... Over time, even fluids will "wear out", and the various chemical properties that make the fluid do its thing, may not!
Good rule of thumb with newer Audi's, is to replace the tranny fluid every 50 to 60K miles. In my old 1990 Audi, I change it about every 30K miles. A family member told me that he had over 245,000 miles on his 1999 Audi A6 automatic transmission and changed the fluid about every 60K miles.
It's cheap insurance... A couple of hundred bucks versus many thousands for a rebuilt tranny...
https://www.audiworld.com/forums/a8-...truth-2882676/
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