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Oil Leak on 2007 fsi

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Old 05-04-2014, 03:27 PM   #1
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Default Oil Leak on 2007 fsi

Had the skid plate off and noticed oil on garage floor. It is in the same place you would have a coolant leak on a D2 with a bad oil cooler pipe. passenger front.
Any help to where I should start would be great.
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Old 03-04-2015, 03:22 PM   #2
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Was this ever diagnosed or fixed? Took my belly pan off today looking for a leak and it looks just like this one. Anyone have any ideas? My mechanic is doing some research but couldn't tell for sure where it's coming from.
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Old 03-04-2015, 03:50 PM   #3
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Boy oh boy are you in for fun times ahead. I hope you don't have to go thru all of the hassle that I did with my S8. Granted the motors are very different and it could be coming from something totally different. Unfortunately, a lot of the time you cannot diagnose these things until you can get your eyes onto the problem spot. In my case, this required taking the whole front end off the car and confirmed the worst of all cases......a breach at the block and upper oil pan. I truly hope yours is something less invasive and can be fixed without removing the whole dang motor. In the case of the V10, in order to access this particular leak, the transmission had to be decoupled from the motor, then the back timing cover removed so that the upper oil pan could be removed. This major surgery cannot take place with the motor and transmission in place. Now, with all of that remedied, I am chasing other more common failures like fused replays that wont allow your air suspension compressor to shut off. Dreadful design by the Art boys.
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Old 03-05-2015, 07:33 AM   #4
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Default Pull oil filler cap

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Originally Posted by Mike141 View Post
Was this ever diagnosed or fixed? Took my belly pan off today looking for a leak and it looks just like this one. Anyone have any ideas? My mechanic is doing some research but couldn't tell for sure where it's coming from.
With engine running pull oil fill cap. See if it is blowing or sucking air. If sucking keep looking. If blowing replace the crankcase vent valve.
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Old 03-05-2015, 11:12 AM   #5
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With engine running pull oil fill cap. See if it is blowing or sucking air. If sucking keep looking. If blowing replace the crankcase vent valve.
Thanks, I'll check that out....would that cause a leak?
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Old 03-05-2015, 12:04 PM   #6
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Default Back up some steps

As a suggestion, your issue merits a new thread, but up to you I guess. You should also identify your year and motor. I remember that (I think) from the coolant question, but it's not here except by guessing since you posted into a 2007 FSI thread. Best if in your signature or avatar.

Yes, pressurized oil system could cause leak. More an S8 specific issue if I remember old posts, but used to happen (rarely) on prior generation 4.2s (and more toward A6 side) due to a couple of sometimes faulty parts.

More likely just thinking about general 4.2 set up (back to my A6), I would probably suspect stuff around the oil to water cooler set up; also I don't know enough about how the oil filter moved around on the later 4.2's. Why a fresh post could help too from other D3 4.2 owner experiences. I would also not dismiss the valve cover gasket. The most common oil leak spot on any of the motors (though more in the back corners) and it can run down and all over stuff, especially with normal air flows at speed. More so maybe if it's a 2007/early FSI IIRC. Several posts in last few months that brought out that there were issues with the early motors and the gasketing, eventually leading Audi to entirely rev. one of the covers--if I am remembering the threads from last few months.

Net, will likely need to pull belly pan if it is lower down, probably clean it up if leak source isn't apparent (look at highest point and where it is most pronounced). Then run it some and see where it reappears. If you want to wimp out on belly pan and getting underneath at first--and yet more so if it is 2007 FSI 4.2--at least wipe whole perimeter of valve cover gaskets (both sides checking won't hurt) and see what you find and/or if something comes back.
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helpful cross reference to a C6 post with MMI and other TSB's that also cover D3 A8's.


Last edited by MP4.2+6.0; 03-05-2015 at 12:07 PM.
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Old 03-05-2015, 06:34 PM   #7
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2007 A8 4.2FSI...took belly pan off other day, the bottom of my engine looked just like the OP's. I did my last oil change in Sept, and bottom of engine was all dry. Not clear where it's coming from exactly, somewhere in the front of engine though. Valve cover areas are dry. I've read that some people have had the oil filter housing gasket fail which will then run oil down under intake manifold then down front of engine.
Also read a bad crankcase vent valve could possibly cause an oil leak...I did what Panelhead suggested, there was a strong suction on oil filler cap and once removed, engine seemed to run rough. Any ideas on the valve?
I'll be looking. Car only has 77K and runs excellent. Hope to keep it that way for a long time.
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Old 03-05-2015, 07:10 PM   #8
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Default Keep looking

.I did what Panelhead suggested, there was a strong suction on oil filler cap and once removed, engine seemed to run rough. Any ideas on the valve? [/QUOTE]


The valve is working properly. This is not the cause of your leak. This is the easy fix, 33.00 from Partsgeek and a 30 minute job to replace.
The drill now is to clean the motor and try to find where the oil is coming from. Oil leaks can be very tricky. The source does not show much.
Start at the bottom and work your way up. Begin with oil pan gasket. If it is the filter housing it should be easy to locate. But, really go over the valve covers. Most likely this is it. Put on a pair of white cotton gloves and wipe all the way around. Or as well as possible. If the leak is below the valve covers and not the oil pan it sounds expensive to repair.
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Old 03-05-2015, 08:01 PM   #9
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Default Next...

From what you have said, next low hanging fruit is the oil filter housing and gasket. More so with no oil leak back at oil change, but then oil mess now. I would clean area all up and look for leaks, and likely just preemptively change oil and filter to be done w/ that, plus of course change o ring at same time. At least the filter and o ring as soon as you open the housing to check.
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Prior (each modded): 2000 C5 A6 4.2 & '96 C4 A6 2.8Q, both still w/ family; '85 C3 5000S 5 sp FWD; '73 C1 100LS

helpful cross reference to a C6 post with MMI and other TSB's that also cover D3 A8's.

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Old 03-07-2015, 09:34 AM   #10
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Well, been doing some research on this issue and have found others have had their PCV valve or crankcase ventaliation valve freeze in extremely cold temps. A few weeks back here in CT the temps were in the negatives. While it is garaged but while at work I noticed several times I would get a whistle from the engine upon leaving, indicative of a clogged or frozen PCV. So, I'm thinking the oil had to go somewhere due to the blockage. It's not the upper oil pan...it appears higher than that. Going to clean it up and swap out that pcv.
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Old 03-07-2015, 12:32 PM   #11
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Yes, makes sense as next steps. I'ld use OE/OES part FWIW, even if pricy.
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Current #1: '06 D3 A8L W12 brilliant black w/ amaretto; 4 seat setup, CPO; modestly lowered, H&R 20mm rear and 12mm front DRs with 275/35 on OEM polished + forged 20's; S8 sway bars (see: rear bar and gen'l D3 bar info and front bar); tweaked 385mm front factory brake mod and matching rear brake mod; matching C6 A6 back headrests (better rear view: headrest tweak); owner installed AMI retrofit with part number details here. [If you want pics in foregoing links, ask AW where they went...used all to work] Upper control arm reference (+ more info in replies) here. Lower cost D3 OES sway bar links here.
Current #2: 2013 Q5 2.0T hybrid; Scuba blue w/ chestnut sport interior; Euro delivery 7/2013 (pictured at Ingolstadt); RS5 front brakes
Prior (each modded): 2000 C5 A6 4.2 & '96 C4 A6 2.8Q, both still w/ family; '85 C3 5000S 5 sp FWD; '73 C1 100LS

helpful cross reference to a C6 post with MMI and other TSB's that also cover D3 A8's.

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Old 03-07-2015, 12:40 PM   #12
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Default I went cheap

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Yes, makes sense as next steps. I'ld use OE/OES part FWIW, even if pricy.
I replaced the one in mine with the 33.00 one from Partsgeek. Figured at 10 years old it was time. Car seems to run smoother. This might be wishful thinking.
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Old 03-07-2015, 07:27 PM   #13
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Got a good look at it today and ran VCDS...no faults. How the heck did you change that PCV? It's right up against the firewall. Did other stuff have to be removed also? I looked closely at it and there is some pooling if oil at the base of where the oil filter housing meets under the intake manifold. I have found on other boards that 4.2 owners have had these o-rings fail causing an oil leak that runs down the front of engine. Might have to pull off that intake.
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Old 03-08-2015, 10:57 AM   #14
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Default Mine is 2005

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Got a good look at it today and ran VCDS...no faults. How the heck did you change that PCV? It's right up against the firewall. Did other stuff have to be removed also? I looked closely at it and there is some pooling if oil at the base of where the oil filter housing meets under the intake manifold. I have found on other boards that 4.2 owners have had these o-rings fail causing an oil leak that runs down the front of engine. Might have to pull off that intake.
The replacement was a little difficult. Took off cover, then loosen clamps on the side and bottom. Removed side hose and worked off the valve from the bottom hose. Replaced clamps with normal hose clamps.
Took an hour or so.
The top mount oil filter housing leak does not sound easy. Removing the intake manifold and replacing is a job.
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Old 03-11-2015, 08:42 AM   #15
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So sucking air trough oil filling cap is normal? On my car I have found oil leakage on driver side valve cover which is begining to drop on the exaust collector. Unpleasant smell of burnt oil appeared about two weeks ago, so this thread was helpfull to lokate it - thanks guys! Is it verry difficul to change the gasket?
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Old 03-11-2015, 10:29 AM   #16
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Quote:
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The replacement was a little difficult. Took off cover, then loosen clamps on the side and bottom. Removed side hose and worked off the valve from the bottom hose. Replaced clamps with normal hose clamps.
Took an hour or so.
The top mount oil filter housing leak does not sound easy. Removing the intake manifold and replacing is a job.
I have been trying to locate a write up for removing the intake manifold, the thing that I'm concerned with is removing that fuel rail out of the way...might be beyond my mechanical means. I think I will turn this over to the pros and pay out to get it done right. I'll keep you posted to see what exactly they determine it's source is from.
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Old 03-11-2015, 10:29 AM
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