ltooz_a6_a8_q7

$38 for 6 bolts and 6 nuts? What? I think I'm going to use the old bolts and nuts if they don't break.
By the way, the rear bolts seem to be pretty long, do I have to remove the shocks like D2 to take these 2 CA bolts out?
Let's see the little vibrations when going over the bumps will be gone or not.

Cheers,

Louis

Doc_A8

Engineers don't like you to reuse the bolts because by torquing them properly you are stretching them a little.

MP4.2+6.0

Not so smart to me on the pinch bolts for starters from what even I saw on a CA 2006 car like yours, and where the dealer already did it once before. Those are two of them and probably the most expensive. Check audiusaparts to be sure the pricing is straight too. You are also going to want some of the fender liner push pins that will self destruct when you try to pull them, or won't be reusable without your labor being worth about $2.00/hour; part of how you get the inner bolts out with enough clearance.

As posted a lot already, you loosen three bolts from under the hood that hold the strut plate area and drop the assembly an inch or so, plus so you can move it around some. You don't remove them, jut back them out a good amount. But you don't need to take it out at all. That's just extra work and risk of damage to air system. Also as posted before, if you are doing the arms I would do the sway bar links if not done already; at least inspect them. Those are yet a few more bolt sets, though the Lemforder OES's come with some nuts already; approx. $65 for a set of two shipped.

ltooz_a6_a8_q7

I really need it... Yes, not to remove it, it will be great.
I didn't buy any of those pins.
Hopefully, the hood cables don't snap on me before I design a powered solenoid to open straight at the latch without cables.

Cheers,

Louis

MP4.2+6.0

As offered before, I'm just on on other side of the bridge from you (as in, "M.P."...) if you get stuck, aren't quite sure of steps, things to look at, etc.

Mister Bally

I heard that that short bridge is closed this weekend as well as on Memorial Day weekend......

MP4.2+6.0

That (long) one is the next one further north. Pre-radar and with no turn arounds and way less population, way back in the day (night) it was handy for checking certain car operating parameters...

Meantime, ours is open.

ltooz_a6_a8_q7

Thanks MP4, I'll let you know next week.
I did the D2 before, looked under the car, the bolts and nuts are looking fine. I'm sure it will be a breeze (wishful thinking). All the work I do to the car, I do read your tech gurus posts before I start, so I'm well prepared.

Thanks all and Happy Mother's day to all,

Louis
PS: today cook for all family mothers... a little busy.

dvs_dave

Powered hood latches to avoid the possibility of snapped cables??? You're a funny guy, or should apply for a job with the German board of engineers for needless complication.

Just lubricate the latches and cables and the risk of a snapped cable pretty much vanishes.

ltooz_a6_a8_q7

If it's proven working, then it should be a STICKY post, please.

It's not the lubrication - it's the dinky little cable and the floppy spring loaded splitter cable box.

Have you tested the force needed to release the latch? there are 2 of them and this box with friction itself + spring + over pulling force of a macho mucho man = this little dinky
cable. Have anyone tested the maximum force this little cable can sustain? Jolt force is much stronger than linear force, so don't test this cable with linear force.

Where do they break? I don't think it's the cable itself, it's where the cable ends that are weak.

Now, retrofit the whole system with thicker cables and stronger ends, then I'll buy.

Cheers,

Louis