carl viking

You dodged a bullet there!

The Stoptech pads have a tendency to leave uneven deposits, leading to warped rotors (which is not the actual metal warping, just brake pad deposits that are not evenly spread). Many of us did have to regularly try to bed in the brakes over and over again, only to have the problem re-appear. After two or three of those sessions most gave up and replaced the rotors and pads again. Do a search on the M5Board and you will see what I mean. Yes, M5s are usually driven harder than the D3s, but I would not take the chance.

This is odd since the Stoptech BBKs are of great quality and as long as you swap out the pads, they last long, are easy to rebuild and provide great stopping power.

I have run EBC red and OEM on the W12. Like both but as you know, the stocks do dust a lot. Posi Centric are also great pads, with zero dust. But they do squeal for the first stop in the morning....

On the W12 I also swapped to Zimmerman drilled rotors. Originally to match the Movit BBK in the front (that are for sale - see link below!) and then on the front to match the rear discs.

Tangirz

EBC Red Stuff Pads and Dealer Rotors. Why? Shipping on Rotors is expensive and the dealer is in the ballpark compared to aftermarket pricing. I have 10,000 km on the fronts, no sign of wear and brake dust is way down with the EBC pads....very happy with this combination

hookooehoo

How is pedal feel and grip with the EBC pads?

Junius

It's very similar to OEM, and they are way quieter too. I couldn't tell much of a difference from the OEM pads, and when you step on the brakes, they strongly stop the car

MP4.2+6.0

+1. I ran back to back stock, then EBC, then stock again, then EBC on W12 for reasons unrelated to feel or performance Could not tell feel difference but could definitely see dust delta. I would describe both as progressive, good feedback, not grabby and holding up well when hot. Neither is "slippery"--an issue associated with some other brands of ceramics but not the EBC's--nor are either grabby with too much initial bite. So EBC's have the good things about stock OE--which are solid--with out the dustamatic feature. Not dust free by any means, but basically EBC front dust becomes not much different than what OE rear pad dust is. Plug and play on sensor connectors of course as well.

Tangirz

Better than than OEM in my opinion...going to change the rears later on this week when I change from winter to summer tires. Will have the 20 inch rims on as well. I say this because I had used the OEM setup with these rims and only have driven with the EBC pads on my much smaller and lighter 18" winters. Still, I would imagine performance to be very similar. Non detectible rotor wear and the lack of brake dust seem to be the big pluses here.

makeithappen

I have a '13 S8 and I'm looking for new pads and rotors. What are CCRS? I'm not familiar.

MP4.2+6.0

Wrong forum, but I'll answer anyway since I own one of those. CCB's = carbon ceramic brakes. In North America, no chance you would have them stock pre 2016 Plus models anyway.

As a 2013, you need the same front rotors as a regular 4.0T or even D4 4.2--A8, C7 S6, S7, etc. Those are basically dealer only. They have a floating hat design. That makes them lighter than straight cast iron, but then also pricier. Only now is a gray market choice showing up for R8's and RS5's from back in earlier build years with more of an aftermarket business. Of course dealer has pads, but you can also get some others like EBC reds. There are also some other parts behind the pad that a dealer would likely change, but often folks apparently have re used. Sensor is also a piece part on D4's.

Bottom like, D4 brakes in front are pricy. You can still DIY it and save $$. In rear it is basically same as always, just sized up another notch. As w/ D3's and most other Audi's these days, you need VCDS to open rear brakes for pad change.

TFT

I thought I'd follow up on my brake and rotor replacement.
I could not get the carriers unbolted. I tried impact wrench, breaker bar and hand sledge, Nothing.
I called a friend of mine who owns an Independent shop and specializes in Audis. He said it not unusual for the bolts to require torch heating to get them loose.
I took the car to his shop and they finally got the carriers unbolted using both torch and air chisel. They were corroded in place.
I have been driving the car for a few days now and I am quite impressed with the brakes. My A6 4.2 stops quick and straight and so far minimal brake dust.

TFT

Another update on my 2002 A6 4.2:
The brakes have been very responsive and I have not noticed much brake dust.

Now I am about to replace the pads and rotors on my 2008 S8.
After the experience I had with my A6, the bolts had to be air-chisled loose, how difficult are these to remove & replace on the S8? Are there any specialty tools that I may need?
The S8 is an Arizona car so it should not have the corrosion issues I had with my Alaska car.