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Wheel alignment

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Old 01-18-2017, 07:04 AM
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Originally Posted by Giovanni Giovino 6.0+6.0TT
Hello Richard,
While I agree that is what has always been said, I on the other hand have had my alignment done 3 times over the years and the ACC has never been touched, and it works as it should, I believe that as long as the ACC sensor remains square to the body, and the suspension is square to the body as it should be, and no one has ever moved the ACC sensor for adjustment or accident damage, it should be as factory set, and doing the 4 wheel alignment brings the suspension back into factory specs, so all should be matching.

Just my thoughts and experience.
+1 Exactly my experience too. Never had sensor touched and always worked well.
Old 01-18-2017, 02:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Giovanni Giovino 6.0+6.0TT
I believe that as long as the ACC sensor remains square to the body, and the suspension is square to the body as it should be, and no one has ever moved the ACC sensor for adjustment or accident damage, it should be as factory set, and doing the 4 wheel alignment brings the suspension back into factory specs, so all should be matching.

Just my thoughts and experience.
When I received the 2008 A8L the ACC was not right. I know that some front end bushings were replaced and alignment done, but I had to take it to my local Audi dealer for the ACC alignment.
Old 01-18-2017, 04:14 PM
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I think in most cases, a regular alignment won't effect your ACC. If there needs to be major adjustments, I think it is only then there might be an issue. I think the ACC looks at steering wheel position, in which the alignment can effect that.
Old 01-19-2017, 09:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Giovanni Giovino 6.0+6.0TT
$500 is absurd....

I just had the 4 wheel alignment done last week on the 05 A8L W12 for $100.00 along with four new Pirelli P7's ($1026) because the shop that did it previously back in June did a half *** job, center steering off and pulling, took 3 time for him to get it right, or so he told me it was right, first it was pigeon-toed and way sensitive, then felt like it was plowing down the road, third time, no pulling, and stayed straight, but would squeal at high speed through off or on ramps, never did that before, claimed it was my brand new tires.....


Long story short, I just went back to Sears last week as I got a flat in the front and found out why, see pics, so the same "technician" at Sears Automotive who worked on my vehicle back in June to do the alignment after I replaced all the suspension parts on a Sunday said I was wrong and was misinformed on the proper procedure of the front end alignment for the Audi A8, and that "the Sub-Frame does not get moved at all for front end alignment", I assured him that he was in-fact wrong, and that the Sub-Frame adjustment is part of the alignment, his answer was "even if it is, I am not moving it", so I wound up with 3 destroyed tires, both front and passenger rear, SO be sure you ask for your before and after printout of alignment and that they do in-fact move the Sub-Frame as needed, this time at the other shop I saw it being adjusted in person, both Sears and F&M have the same alignment machine, look how bad the before (Sears work) was...
Giovanni:

So just these small variances in the front alignment (-0.4* front-left, +0.1* front-right, and -0.08* center steer) chewed through your tires on the inside edges that much? I ask because I'm *just* starting to get some funky inside edge wear on my fronts (and yes...already replaced upper control arm bushings & tie-rod end links - they were fine, but did them anyways)....so will be taking it into my independent German shop for a full alignment.

I'm also going to make absolutely certain they adjust front alignment camber via the front subframe before bringing it in to them (since based on what I've read and you mentioned, it's absolutely the only "camber" adjustment that can be made on the D3s).
Old 01-19-2017, 11:12 AM
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Originally Posted by nathanwind
Giovanni:

So just these small variances in the front alignment (-0.4* front-left, +0.1* front-right, and -0.08* center steer) chewed through your tires on the inside edges that much? I ask because I'm *just* starting to get some funky inside edge wear on my fronts (and yes...already replaced upper control arm bushings & tie-rod end links - they were fine, but did them anyways)....so will be taking it into my independent German shop for a full alignment.

I'm also going to make absolutely certain they adjust front alignment camber via the front subframe before bringing it in to them (since based on what I've read and you mentioned, it's absolutely the only "camber" adjustment that can be made on the D3s).
The most tire wear are related to toe wear. You cannot look at individual toe but total toe. If you have variance in left or right toe, it will only determine steering wheel position. A negative total toe will wear your tires on the inside. On the other hand if you have a lot of positive toe, your car will have outside edge wear. Also whether its inner or outer, they will wear on both sides.

Negative camber will wear on the inside but over a long period of time.
Old 01-19-2017, 04:02 PM
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Originally Posted by nathanwind
Giovanni:

So just these small variances in the front alignment (-0.4* front-left, +0.1* front-right, and -0.08* center steer) chewed through your tires on the inside edges that much? I ask because I'm *just* starting to get some funky inside edge wear on my fronts (and yes...already replaced upper control arm bushings & tie-rod end links - they were fine, but did them anyways)....so will be taking it into my independent German shop for a full alignment.

I'm also going to make absolutely certain they adjust front alignment camber via the front subframe before bringing it in to them (since based on what I've read and you mentioned, it's absolutely the only "camber" adjustment that can be made on the D3s).
Common answer which you've anticipated, but I will still draw it out. When were upper control arm bushings replaced? That is, how many miles ago? And with dealer/OES, or something else? Even the Toyota minivan AWD with its failed control arms was back literally within one year and 12K miles to replace the China crap jobber parts the shop installed the first go around. They stood behind the work--14 book hours on that one--and did it again. Needless to say, a different supplier for round 2. BTDT to an extent myself on Audi C5 4.2.
Old 01-19-2017, 05:26 PM
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Originally Posted by MP4.2+6.0
Common answer which you've anticipated, but I will still draw it out. When were upper control arm bushings replaced? That is, how many miles ago? And with dealer/OES, or something else? Even the Toyota minivan AWD with its failed control arms was back literally within one year and 12K miles to replace the China crap jobber parts the shop installed the first go around. They stood behind the work--14 book hours on that one--and did it again. Needless to say, a different supplier for round 2. BTDT to an extent myself on Audi C5 4.2.
I used the OEM Lemfoerder Bushings #8D0407515C (the one you recommended, which we spoke about for the uppers, and it was only ~2K miles ago (May 2016). Seemed like good quality bushings as you experienced, and had the factory markings/etc on them. Yes, embarrassed I have only driven 2k miles on the A8...I have some crappy old Land Rovers that for some inexplicable reason I enjoy driving way too much and probably put 10-12k each on those!

However, I was starting to get *some* odd wear prior to that replacement...I sort of replaced them just to "rule it out", but really the ones I took out weren't bad at all. Maybe a tiny hairline crack in the bushing, but nothing compromised on a grand scale. Same with the tie-rod U-links.
Old 01-19-2017, 08:10 PM
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Originally Posted by nathanwind
I used the OEM Lemfoerder Bushings #8D0407515C (the one you recommended, which we spoke about for the uppers, and it was only ~2K miles ago (May 2016). Seemed like good quality bushings as you experienced, and had the factory markings/etc on them. Yes, embarrassed I have only driven 2k miles on the A8...I have some crappy old Land Rovers that for some inexplicable reason I enjoy driving way too much and probably put 10-12k each on those!

However, I was starting to get *some* odd wear prior to that replacement...I sort of replaced them just to "rule it out", but really the ones I took out weren't bad at all. Maybe a tiny hairline crack in the bushing, but nothing compromised on a grand scale. Same with the tie-rod U-links.
Got it, so then not that. Did you align it after you did that work, or is alignment still pending? If still pending, makes sense to do it and that you could be seeing wear actually. Putting aside pot holes and other everyday hits, if previously aligned w/ any worn parts in place, then w/ new parts it ends up back out of alignment that previously was done to compensate for the worn components. If aligned that recent work, harder to say--more whacks, other TBD worn item, etc. In any case, with known good components, a thorough alignment check makes sense given the wear you are seeing.
Old 01-19-2017, 11:23 PM
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Originally Posted by TFT
I had my 2008 S8 in for service and they told me I would need a wheel alignment. I was told that due to the type of suspension, etc the alignment would coast around $500.
Does this make sense? Any of you guys have this done on your S8s or A8s?
Yes that is how much it is with the ACC, actually that is much less than it is. If a truly textbook job is done, the Adaptive Cruise Control will require some programming (which Sears obviously can't do) and a special reflective sonar setup to calibrate its position and also the lane departure warning. The stealership here charged exactly $1290.53 to do it on my A8. If your ACC is functioning properly, I would just do what MP4.2 said, and get it done standard, and see how the ACC works after the alignment... it's reassuring to know it worked out well for him.
Old 01-20-2017, 08:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Sci-fi_Wasabi
Yes that is how much it is with the ACC, actually that is much less than it is. If a truly textbook job is done, the Adaptive Cruise Control will require some programming (which Sears obviously can't do) and a special reflective sonar setup to calibrate its position and also the lane departure warning. The stealership here charged exactly $1290.53 to do it on my A8. If your ACC is functioning properly, I would just do what MP4.2 said, and get it done standard, and see how the ACC works after the alignment... it's reassuring to know it worked out well for him.

Hello Sci-fi,

The OP "TFT" never stated that he had ACC, nor did he state that the quote included the ACC alignment, he simply said "I was told that due to the type of suspension, etc the alignment would coast around $500," and asked "Does this make sense?", So NO $500.00 for standard alignment does NOT make sense.

PLEASE do not take this as an insult, but, you paying "$1290.53" is absurd, and a rip-off as some dealers do, Princeton Audi's labor rate is $145 and charges $199.99 for a full suspension alignment, yet wants 9 to 12 hours for the ACC alignment, that's $1305 - $1740 just for the ACC, that's insane, Yet Flemington Audi's labor rate is $140.88 and they charge $159.00 for the full suspension alignment, and a flat fee of $475 to align the ACC for a total of $634.00, still less then half of what you paid, always price around.

Also just to note, both dealers service advisers stated "the two alignments are separate from each other and not one in the same, and having the suspension alignment preformed does not mandate that the ACC must be re-aligned", I thought they were reading from a screen as they both said almost the same thing, P A rep also stated that "only if the rear toe is out, the ACC needs to be aligned", I said what happens when one brings the rear toe back into factory specs, why then should the ACC be off, she came back with "well if the front bumper has ever been removed, the ACC needs re-alignment" and "or if its ever been in an accident", ??? what does that have to do with the rear toe.....

I would have gone to the dealer for the alignment, maybe, but it was a Sunday and I was at my buddies shop using the lift to replace the twelve piece front suspension, 4 rotors and pads, it was a 1.5 mile ride to sears or 30ish mile drive home and then have to wait for an appointment at Princeton to be available or drive further to Flemington and again need an appointment, and as it was a Sunday F&M was closed also, so fast forward, as I would not buy tires at the dealer, I had F&M do the tires and alignment this time as they do it the correct way, I got what I paid for at Sears, a $50 (shop cost) 4 wheel alignment....
Now I know better, and not to bash Sears as it was the service tech that screwed up.


Or one could make their own ACC alignment tool such as this lane assist chart as seen on Audi World, I recall either Mr.Bally or Misha made a chart kind of like the one pictured below, but not sure if that was for ACC or RVC.


https://www.audiworld.com/forums/q5-...-done-2886241/
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Attached Thumbnails Wheel alignment-fullsizerender_1_zpsuzsdve8l_01bcca29508331dcbc75fcd7e7c94a604dbe7c6c.jpg  

Last edited by Giovanni Giovino 6.0+6.0TT; 01-20-2017 at 08:49 AM.


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