ppinto1

Is one required to have the recommended interval service performed by an Audi dealer to keep the CPO warranty valid?

Thanks in advance...

MP4.2+6.0

They really can't legally, so it gets more into a need to prove it category. Same issue BTW with 4/50 or any manufacturer new warranty, so issue has been around for any modern era vehicle. Especially once warranties became multi year and longer miles than old 12 miles, 12 months of 30 years ago.

If the motor has an internal issue for example, expect them to want to see oil change documentation. And if it literally melts down, they may even test an oil sample. But then level of melt downs is approx zero--spun bearings, thrown rods, cracked whatever, blown head gaskets, etc. Just not part of modern Audi motors at a meaningful level. More likely risk is excessive oil burning, but in general D4 group of motors don't tend to be known for it (like an older 1.8 or 2.0T). Likewise valve fouling, not so much on D4 specific motors (in D4 applications, not S4 for example in that 4.2 vintage). And there, not even clear oil maintenance would really read on it. If you go all the way to DIY, documentation can nonetheless get harder for if it ever matters.

Back at big picture, most systems have no regular service where you can question whether maintenance had a real effect--tranny, cooling, covered electronics, door and window components, etc. So mostly it is the narrow internal motor question that gets to oil change interval at its core. There are some other corner cases like brake fluid every two years that might affect an internal ABS type claim, but again those statistically are very low. Usually on ABS and related components, it's electronics if it arises.

FWIW, most broadly having ridden my D3 all the way through CPO the only quasi internal engine thing I had were valve cover gaskets. Again, not really tied to oil changes anyway and was covered with no even slight debate as soon as they confirmed some seepage. Engine torque mount similarly--purely external. Various powered things like soft close doors and other, of course easy. Also had an ABS issue/fault right near end. And indeed that was the core electronic module. No questions, and a very pricy part (a couple thousand IIRC). Suspension upper front arms and sway bar links, covered. And so on.

Meantime, FWIW I just get AudiCare even though it wasn't really germane to my warranty issues over time and lots of Audis. On W12 it was a total no brainer; cost of fluids and parts alone exceeded then price. On D4, I think for any 4.0T (A8/S8) it makes sense, since it covers an initial major tune up interval. But, both my CPO's have been before first owner paid interval, so easier choice than if you buy later in miles.

Jack88

In theory, no. But if you have a problem Audi determines to be the fault of poor maintenance, that's where it can start to be a problem. I haven't heard of this being a problem with Audi, but I have heard of it elsewhere. Keep records and receipts if you go elsewhere, but for the love of Pete, don't go to Jiffy Lube for an oil change.

MP4.2+6.0

Jiffy Lube... Heck, the demo saw to the belly pan to create easy access seemed like a common sense thing at the time. Not!

ppinto1

Thanks for the responses! I was surprised my 55k mile visit was going to cost $1300. Out of what's included in the service, I don't have experience flushing brake fluid or cleaning intake carbon - but I'm guessing they don't pull the intake... I might just pay for this one. I'm on the fence.

Jack88

Too easy for crooks to work there and try to put one over on you or kids with no experience hacking it up. I had the care plan for my A8, and the rest I do myself cheaper than they want for it. Getting an eye on the condition of the oil being drained from the car is nice.

Jack88

I had them clean my throttle body at the service before the car was sold. I didn't want to fiddle around with the car having to recalibrate. Cleaning the intake manifold is a whole other game, but I would suspect they mean to clean the throttle body. Flushing brake fluid is a bit silly, I think. They tend to go overboard on that sort of thing, most of the actually useful parts of the service are simple to do in your garage, provided you have some tools and an oil vac.

ppinto1

Thanks Jack88. I picked a RossTech cable up for the rear brake job I'll be doing next week. I have the service manual, too. I'm going to take a look to see if there's a procedure listed for cleaning the throttle body. Maybe you use Gumout on it, then run it for a while before you change the plugs.

MP4.2+6.0

Throttle body (as distinct from MAF): I usually clean w/ brake cleaner since self evaporating and just wipe area out w/ rag. If you touch MAF, besides no oily solvents anywhere near it ever, electronics (no residue) cleaners or MAF specific cleaner only.

If you are doing rear brakes, you will want to do fluid flush anyway. Reason is water builds up in fluid--hydroscopic so it attracts it. After several years it gets material and affects boiling point of fluid. More so if you live in an area with seasonal humidity. From owning a long time, if you go out past ten years of life, regardless of boiling point issue you start to see differences in either trouble free or parts starting to fail with internal corrosion and seal abrasion and such--wheel calipers, master cylinders, the dreaded modern ABS unit, etc. Even here in low humidity CA. As a simple shade trees mechanic type look, if fluid is in a translucent Audi type reservoir that is still somewhat milky white, fluid in good shape looks close to clear with a little yellow tint (required DOT color). If it looks darker or even starting toward some brown, it has got a lot of water in it. But, I would still do either on Audi cycle (what I do) or at least every three years. When I'm off Audi pre-paid service, I usually do it whenever I do brake pad or rotor work, which tends to be every couple of years anyway.

Technically fluid spec has also changed a bit. Either VW spec is high quality (and better than straight DOT 4), but the newer one leaves fluid at low viscosity for low temp ESP operation. Not sure when Audi cut over on D4, but it was probably not in early ones. And when some day ESP might actually matter in an unanticipated scenario. Can get from Audi dealer (or online discounted), or via Ate or other brands like Pentosin. I still do it the old fashioned way. One guy at brake caliper with plastic tube and wrench, and the guy (wife, kid, etc.) at brake pedal while I say "pump" and "release" between opening and closing. Others use a pressure bleeder. Kids and spouse are still cheap, and hose costs essentially nothing. You look for color to shift from brownish to faint yellow to know when done, plus no air bubbles of course. Never letting fluid run out of reservoir is critical, especially with ABS units that are tough to bleed once air get in.

About a liter/32 oz type can is typically what you need for a standard flush job. Can depend a bit on motor I guess, since the 3.0T's use a simpler two piston front caliper, while the larger motors have the many piston set up.

ppinto1

Thanks again for the responses. The more I think about it, the more I think I should do it.