TopFuelWeimar

A while back I was getting DTC 2411 (EGR) and I just got the car back from the shop after having them clean out the EGR, replace valley plate, etc. Also did the 30K mile service since it was waaay past time.

On the way home, I got the Check Engine light again and immediately checked the DTC. It's 2411 again.

They did say I have a slight hole in one of my cat's but not severe, something I can fix later. Could this be the cause?

Other ideas?

Anyone have links for inexpensive exhaust vendor?

Thanks,

Pete
1995 A6 Sedan
160K Mi
pete@simpsons.org

KaMaKaZieP -ALUMIN8-

My cats went however i did not get any check engine light to come on. I ordered the cat it was only 288 dollars as opposed to 1600 dollars. It bolted direcelty on and it is a high flow cat. My mechanic said that it was a piece of cake installaton. I thank you guys for the reference!

jcs182

I had a similar problem and the vacuum hose to the EGR was split. The Check Engine light would come on after maye 10-15 minutes. Not always but 90% of the time. Trace the vacuum hoses and begin looking for any loose connectors. If you have a vacuum pump (mity vac) you can check the operation of the EGR by puling a vacuum on it at idle and see if the idle speed changes.

I don't see how the cats will trigger the Check Engine light by the way. It's not wired.

This is what the bently says about 2411:

VAG 1551 scan tool printer display
MIL
(lamp)
Possible cause
Possible
effects
Corrective steps

DTC
Blink code

00560
2411
X




EGR System

Vacuum hoses pulled off or kinked
EGR temperature sensor -G98- faulty
EGR valve
Auxiliary fuse 28 faulty
EGR vacuum regulator solenoid valve -N18- faulty
Open circuit in wiring between -G98-, EGR vacuum regulator valve -N121-, and ECM -J192-
Poor idle, poor starting performance
Bucking
- Check EGR system

Repair Group 24

- Read measuring value block, display group 017, display fields 3 and 4, Page Page 01-98


Mechanical
malfunction 1)


Incorrect signal 1)

1) One of these malfunction types is displayed in addition to the component.

Recognition conditions for the "Incorrect signal" (-N18- continuously closed) malfunction is engine temperature over 60C (140F), a throttle opening under 35 with a vehicle speed between 45 and 65 mph, an engine speed between 1500 and 3000 RPM, and average engine load.
The "Mechanical malfunction" (-N18- continuously open) is set as soon as the measured EGR temperature increase is greater than 60C (140F) during cold start 10-30C (50-86F) and with a 35C (95F) engine coolant temperature.

Jon

Bpower

what was the time/labor $$$ to clean EGR? I need to have this done...

TopFuelWeimar

Remove & Install Manifold & Clean out EGR...$302
Replace Valley Place while Intake off.......$186

They highly recommended to me replacing the valley plate. My car has 160K miles. They said that over time the valley plate warps and it & the gasket should be replaced and it's cheaper to just do it when the EGR and stuff is already exposed / removed. Not sure what the valley plate does exactly, but I've been going to this guy for years and I trust his judgement. He's not cheap, but he's always been honest and that's worth a lot to me.

TopFuelWeimar

That sounds like my scenario: it rarely, if ever, happens in stop/go communter traffic (20-40 mph) on the 10 mile drive to work, but after a bit of highway speed driving (50+ mph) for 5 or 10 minutes the check engine light will illuminate the majority of the time but not always.

OK... so if I understand what you're saying correctly, if I apply vacuum and the idle does NOT change, then I should suspect a vacuum leak which is likely a hose. Replace the hose and see what happens, right?

Also thanks for the info on the cats probably not being the problem. I didn't know if they had 02 sensors or something that might be reading improperly. I really want to put the exhaust stuff off as long as possible.

Thanks,

Pete

QCRAZY

They cleaned out the EGR passage right?? There's no reason to clean the valve!!

DennisStehlik

I just went through this also. I agree that the first thing to do is check the lines by applying vacuum. Start off first by applying vacuum directly to the EGR valve and check for the RPM drop. Then work down the line to the EGR solenoid. If you find a leak, that is good news, if you don't, then you have to check to see if the EGR solenoid is working correctly. In my case it was the solenoid. $126 to replace.

TopFuelWeimar

What do you mean clean the valve?

jcs182

OK... so if I understand what you're saying correctly, if I apply vacuum and the idle does NOT change, then I should suspect a vacuum leak which is likely a hose. Replace the hose and see what happens, right?


Not quite. The EGR valve has a diaphram inside, that is whatthe vacuum is pulling on to actuate the valev. If you apply vacuum and nothing happens, then the EGR is defective. The diaphram is bad.

If the idle drops, then you relly need to look at the rest of the EGR system. Vacuum lines, soleniod, temp switch too, if I read the cose in the Bently right.

If you have a fax I can send you the pages from the Bently that apply.

email to jcslocum748@hotmail.com

Jon