here is what she looks like right now. still waiting for the 034 silicone vacuum hose things and the M/C reservoir to get here to make it derivable again.
Put some hub-centric spacers on the factory wheels with longer bolts. 10mm front and 20mm rear spacers. I like the stance better, especially in the rear where the wheels were just lost inside the wheel arch before.
By the way, their were two problems with my car. first, when I installed the air cleaner, an old wire had broke loose from its ground when I was pulling the fuel injection stuff to the side--it was the ecu ground wire!
Second, the car had been "tuned" with air leaks from some bad hoses and a crack in the inlet hose. after i fixed those leaks, the CO level had to be reset. car runs awesome now, and idles like you can hardly tell its running. we bumped up the timing a few degrees as well to 8 degrees from 6, 30 full advance, and I love the way the car pulls.
Now I can start playing with a few mods I want to do:
Upgrade the stereo speakers
install some period Cibie fog lights
Install 5000K true HID low beams in some special H4 4 X 6.5 housings
Install some true pencil beam high beams with 75 watt HID "looking" bulbs (aftermarket real HID's aren't great for separate high beams, as they take 5-10 seconds to reach brightness)
Install a rear 18mm sway bar from my B6 A4. I have some end links like the 2bennett ones, and just have to make brackets for the center bushings to mount. The a4 rear bar is the right shape to position the end links with a direct vertical shot to the strut housing, and with the right shape home made brackets, will have no interference issues.
will look very similar to the 2Bennett kit below less the $495.00 and add about 3 hours fabrication time.
got the custom sway bar mounted up today. I am glad I had adjustable end links from ST,(and they came with a mounting tab) as it would have been really hard to get it on there right without being able to vary the length of the end links. turned out great, no interference throughout the full suspension travel, barely changed the ride quality, but the car turns in way better now. was harder than I thought it would be, but I did get it done with almost all left over parts. took me a couple hours just to fabricate the center bracket. As the photo shows everything is nice and square, the end links are straight up and down. My first time doing a custom sway bar install, so i was pretty happy with the results.
got the Cibie fog lights on too. they are very bright, have a great pattern, and the mounts are strong as hell-- most other fogs i have tried have a lot of wiggle in the mounts even when tightened all the way down.
just found out today as of 1/1/2012 California no longer allows recharging of the older cars A/C with 12A coolant. Can't buy it or have it shipped here, and no shop will risk fooling with it. I have to convert to R134a if I want the a/C to blow cold. I am going to convert it, because this car is nice enough to want all the stuff to work right on it. going to be about $150 more for the conversion than it would have been for just a service/leak test/ recharge with the older style coolant.
well im sorry to say, but the new laws of California specifically state that vehicles built in germany over the age of 10 must be:
1: the engine must be permanantly disabled via liquid cement
2: deported out of the current state
3: crushed and recycled to build modern ford fiesta parts.
Or, there is one alternative. Send the vehicle accross the border, and to the province of british columbia on a small island called vancouver. the city of victoria has an import zone were i will pick it up and call it my own!
Always "new rules for old cars" in California. You think they'd finally just leave us classic car lovers alone. My $150 A/C service has now turned into a $500 job, as I now need an upgraded dryer, and the 84 had a hard to find and costly one. If I would have known all of this before, I think I would have bought a $79 R12a "kit" on ebay and tried to do it myself.
My son is looking at UBC in Vancouver as a potential choice for his undergraduate school. My wife was born in Toronto, and is in the process of getting my son dual Canadian citizenship.
My old 1962 Abarth Coupe came from Vancouver. Had a truck pick it up and haul it down to me way back in 1994. Haven't been to Vancouver, but plan on visiting UBC with my son this Summer.
500 for the air conditioning swap! wow, thats crazy. I need to recharge my 87 4KS's air conditioner. Its pretty useless nowadays. just makes me burn more fuel...
how old is your son? i am 16, heading on to 17 this september. I've had my 4000S since i was 12! i got it in 08, but its been in the family since new.
Ive never seen a 62 Abarth coupe before, must be very rare in NA. ive seen a few 1980's Alfa Romeo's around, an old Citroen as well. The only car sporting the "Abarth" name is the new Fiat 500...
You are 1 month younger than my son!
Looks like the A/C is going to be great when they are finished with it. I needed a new dryer as part of the conversion--another $100 plus for that, and then once they got the system all up and running, they found out I need an "expansion valve" as well. good news is the compressor and lines are all fine, and the thing is working as it should and there are no leaks. The expansion valve is a thermocouple switch and they end up sticking closed from sitting, so none of the cold air the a/c actually makes get to the inside vents when that thing is broken.
Its an inexpensive part, and if i knew then what i know now, I'd have had one in the car when I dropped it off for the A/C service. have one coming in tomorrow, but they have to install it, so more labor costs to suck the coolant out again and save it, install the valve, and add the coolant back again.
Just got one of the Hushpower "noise cancellation" mufflers (the 18 inch HP2) installed on the car today. sounds is mellow, and those things flow like a straight pipe. These things are the real deal and not just some gimmick. used them on several cars before and have always been happy with them. full 304 stainless. fits perfect on the rear section of a 4000Q. nearly indestructible, which is good, because for some reasons 4000Q's eat mufflers.
had a chance to spend some more time on the car today, and I decided to tackle the timing belt. the old one had about 30,000 miles on it, but had been on the car since 1998. The water pump was done a few months ago by the previous owner, and in their wisdom, they reused the 14 year old timing belt instead of just changing it when they had the chance. lots of old greasy caked on mess under the front timing belt cover from a long time front corner valve cover gasket leak that was fixed years ago, but never fully cleaned up. de-greased everything and blasted and painted the various timing cover pieces and pulleys. I am not very fast at these kinds of jobs and it took me almost the entire day, but at least I got the timing right and the car fired right up after wards. also replaced the heater valve. the A/C worked great until the car really warmed up, then it got weaker. I suspected the old heater valve was leaking a small amount of coolant by even when it was closed, and I was right. you could blow through it when it was closed all the way, and on the new one, you could not. i suspect the A/C will blow very cold now even when the car warms up--at least i hope so.
put some 10mm alloy spring spacers under the rear springs today, and it raised the back end up 2/3 inch and it now matches the front height better.
made a little splash cover for the A/C cowl area. used some 1/8 thermoplastic from Tap. you can heat it and shape it. i also found a cabin filter in the 4 X 9 inch size that will fit the inlet on the 4000Q. was from a mid 2000's Hyundai. going to rig it up so all that crap doesn't get into the car.
here are a few photos from today. even though the red valve cover looked decent in photos, in real life it was a tacky job and the thing was sprayed while still on the car. Had red over spray all over the place that i needed to clean up. decided to go with the classic wrinkle black on the valve cover, and i like the way it
turned out. looks clean and classy.
beautiful paint work! if i had the money i would do everything you have done to my engine. When i get my welding stuff sorted out, i will be making $55 per hour easy. im going to buy a 4000 q and restore it like you are doing here. I believe mine is to far gone to restore this nicely...
so, my plan is to get another vintage Audi that isnt totally screwy with electric gremlins and so on
pulled into to a local Audi VW repair place today, and the entire shop emptied out to see the car. people can't believe its the original paint and interior. I am having a lot fun with it and love driving the car. Now that the new heater valve is installed and actually shuts off fully, I have real cold A/C blowing out the vents.
Had to adjust the timing belt tension today, which is a pain in the butt. was too tight and making noises. to get at the slotted bolts for the water pump to adjust the tension, you have to take a lot of stuff off. If someone has glued the water pump down like the PO did, means basically replacing the pump or at least removing it, cleaning all the sealant off, and putting in a new O ring. NO silicone or other sealants should be used on these pumps, only light grease on the O ring. be sure to clean the surface really good where the O ring contacts the engine block. finbally got it right, and now no weird belt noises. only the fuel pump hum and loud radiator fan--but those are part of this era German cars character.
The main guy at the shop used to have one, and was really missing his after seeing mine. He took it out for a spin, and that only made him feel worse I think. he gave me the famous "if you ever want to sell it" thing.
still got to get a sound clip of the exhaust. it sounds really nice. something about that inline 5.